Brassicas = lots of deer. Everything else = not many deer. (Late season)

phil, 3' is 3' and all the way around your pretty much screwed, even corn is questionable in that much snow unless you got a very good, tall crop(most of the food plot corn I am accustomed to seeing rarely gets above 6' or 7' tall, unlike some of the guys on here who grow 10' tall corn plots like they are on 250 bushel/acre prime ground in the cornbelt). Most of the time beans will not hold up under that much snow either. I was talking snow cover in the 10" to 16" range at the beginning of the snowy season, like we see this time of year. The taller plants give the deer more weeks of food than they would have if it were 3" tall. Will these taller plants feed them under the heavy snowfall amounts that accumulate in late January or February, most likely not, but they will maximize the plot usage during the early months of winter, so they do not have to rely on woody browse for as many weeks during the long northern winters. Any advantage you can provide is worth the minimal effort to get your plantings done a few weeks earlier to allow for taller growth. When you have good snow cover and minimal melting, it can be pretty easy to dig through 12" of snow, and unless it is the heavy, wet type of snow, one would be ok at that snow depth. Now, with heavy wet snowfalls, freezing rain on top of existing snow, or constant thawing and refreezing of the snowpack, the benefits go away quickly under those types of conditions, even with only a foot of snow and taller plants. I have observed many alfalfa/red clover fields that are in drift prone areas on hilltops where the wind keeps the snow from completely piling up that are dug up and browsed on throughout the whole winter.
Thanks Whip....it makes more sense to me now. I am not accustomed to having 10-16" of snow on the ground in November, and in some years even into mid December...although we did get 12" the day before thanksgiving and it was gone 5 days later. Most years we don't start to see sustained snow cover in the 10"+ range until January...of course there are always exceptions either way. Most years my brassicas (bulbs) get hammered no matter the snow depth. But some years we get the snow with layers of ice from warm periods followed by cold periods and additional snow/freezing rain....that is when i see my plot usage drop off no matter the forage under the snow. Some of my favorite/productive early shed hunting spots are fields with knobs that the snow drifts off, or fields with south facing slopes where snow melts more rapidly and sublimation can come into to play in below freezing temps.
 
I tried suppressing my red clover this year with about 1.5 qts/acre of gly but it pretty much killed it off. I didn't mind much as I was going to brassicas which grew very well this year.
"pretty much" is what u want, that gave your brassicas the chance to grow. You'll be surprised how that clover bounces back. Clover is a weed, especially if u let it seed itself. The clover didn't rebound real good because the brassicas overpowered the clover, before the clover could fully recover. That clover will rebound next spring, because the brassicas won't be there.
Wisc I don't care if guys food plot with bottomless pockets, I'm not out anything.
 
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Bueller-Id add some oats to your plot early spring. You'll have nice mature oats and clover by early July.
 
"pretty much" is what u want, that gave your brassicas the chance to grow. You'll be surprised how that clover bounces back. Clover is a weed, especially if u let it seed itself. The clover didn't rebound real good because the brassicas overpowered the clover, before the clover could fully recover. That clover will rebound next spring, because the brassicas won't be there.
Wisc I don't care if guys food plot with bottomless pockets, I'm not out anything.
I hope your right. And I might just add oats as you suggest, I will have some oats on hand since I be starting a new plot next spring with an oats and buckwheat combo to start building up organic matter.
 
Must be nice to get oats to grow in the spring. I might try it again but it failed bad this spring.
 
Must be nice to get oats to grow in the spring. I might try it again but it failed bad this spring.
If your soil is as waterlogged as you say it may continue to be an effort in futility.
 
My oats plants itself in the fall
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Gotta plant it in the spring to get the free seed. If it's not planted early enough to get a jump ahead of browse it will be chewed to the dirt.
9" in the cage, to the dirt out. I planted too late
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If your soil is as waterlogged as you say it may continue to be an effort in futility.

It is frustrating for sure because it can be such a handicap. The water just doesn't go anywhere. I also tolerate drouts really well. :)

I told myself last spring I am just giving up on spring plots. By the time the standing water is gone enough it is mid to late may the last two years. I'm planting my fall plots 5 weeks later. Just doesn't seem worth it. Maybe it has just been the bad winters the last two and I will have better luck with a more normal winter.
 
bueller, another reason you will likely see regrowth of that red clover is that red clover produces a good amount of hard seed that will germinate in the spring after it has a chance to stratify this winter, thus creating the "weed" effect that dipper was referring to.
 
It is frustrating for sure because it can be such a handicap. The water just doesn't go anywhere. I also tolerate drouts really well. :)

I told myself last spring I am just giving up on spring plots. By the time the standing water is gone enough it is mid to late may the last two years. I'm planting my fall plots 5 weeks later. Just doesn't seem worth it. Maybe it has just been the bad winters the last two and I will have better luck with a more normal winter.
The best thing I think you could do in your situation is to keep something in those plots that is already alive and ready to take off come spring warmup, i. e. rye and white clover, and hope the already established root systems soak up some of the excess water.
 
The best thing I think you could do in your situation is to keep something in those plots that is already alive and ready to take off come spring warmup, i. e. rye and white clover, and hope the already established root systems soak up some of the excess water.

Agreed. The clover from that perspective did well. Some parts in the low pockets would flood out and die but that is too be expected. I should start taking pictures of what I deal with to post on here. Keep in mind I am only in this game 3 years so I'm still learning what the norm is.
 
For Minnesotans and anyone farther north we need to start looking at the plant date of August 1st??

Personally I have found that in most years, that is too late. I am now looking at July (rain forecast) is high.

Did one plot last year in July and it turned out nice, the ones in August were nothing
This was my first year planting in July. I actually preferred it because it took a little pressure off of the plot and I got more tonnage. For me the deer are hammering brassica tops by September so planting in august doesn't always work that great especially if you aren't getting the rain right away. In 2015 I'll make sure my ph is better and have more N at planting time for July.
 
I just walked out and looked at my ptt and beets. They are barely touched. The small patches of beans are cleaned up and they are working on the corn.

I checked the North Sandbox, and the ptt are getting just a bit of use.
 
Checked yesterday, gfr getting hammered, ptt very little use. It will be gfr always.
 
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