Blind Hid'em thoughts or better yet success stories

[Brokenbear]

In the vein of why re-invent the wheel..And for this coming spring I need some direction on hiding a Muddy blind on a 5' tower that is 30 yards out from a tree line setting just inside CRP ground bordering plot grounds ...
I am looking for tall cover that I can walk behind going in and would also like to surround the blind with whatever seems the best plant option ..(No I do not expect to hide the blind ..just break up it's outline somewhat )
I would hope a one pass 6' wide drill planting would be heavy/wide enough to block movement ..The first 75 yards would be along a creek and shaded 50% of a day ..then of course once out in the field and around the blind would be full sun ..

So what works for you folks?

Bear

 

[drycreek]

I planted some stuff once from Frigid Forage called Plot Screen. I planted it 25 feet wide and it really made a dense screen. It was next to my main road and I planted it hoping to encourage more use of the adjoining plot in daylight. It worked well until the Egyptian Wheat headed out, then the damn hogs destroyed it. Did I ever mention that I hate hogs ?

I planted some stuff this year for the purpose of hiding me while walking to one of my stands. It worked in places, but not in others. I can’t say why, lack of sunlight maybe. We had a very dry summer and it has grown more since the last two rains than it did all summer. I’d have to google it to find it again.

Northwood Whitetails is where I bought it. It’s impressive on their site, but due to our drought, it didn’t do as well as I had hoped.

 

[Brian662]

Northwoods Whitetails HD screen is the best annual screen. Miscanthus is the best perennial screen.

 

[SwampCat]

That blind a couple hundred yards in front of the tractor sticks out like a sore thumb. Deer walk by ten yards away and dont even look at it. Could bow shoot deer most hunts.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

I’d do miscanthus if it’ll grow. You mentioned 30’ from the treeline - between the treeline and the shade from the blind, things might not grow very well especially depending on which direction they face. The northwoods HD screen is great but where i tried to butt it up to treelines the growth is very sparse and stunted I think because of shade and competition for nutrients with the tree roots.

 

[TreeDaddy]

Sorghum x Sudan works well for me

bill

 

[Wind Gypsy]

For illustration how my sorghum screen doesn’t do well near the treeline. It was planted/fertilized the same right up to the edge of the trees and it hardly grows at all next to them. This is a blend of northwoods HD plot screen and Egyptian wheat.

 

[Brokenbear]

For illustration how my sorghum screen doesn’t do well near the treeline. It was planted/fertilized the same right up to the edge of the trees and it hardly grows at all next to them. This is a blend of northwoods HD plot screen and Egyptian wheat.
View attachment 58211

So I am guessing that the strip of cover is running east/west where both ends are getting like a half day of full sun ..I have been reading about the HD cover seed and it does note that it is not water tolerant damp soil that it has to have good drainage ..so would by chance those areas on each end be of poorer drainage that the area that shows good performance ?

Bear

 

[Wind Gypsy]

So I am guessing that the strip of cover is running east/west where both ends are getting like a half day of full sun ..I have been reading about the HD cover seed and it does note that it is not water tolerant damp soil that it has to have good drainage ..so would by chance those areas on each end be of poorer drainage that the area that shows good performance ?

Bear

Bingo. Picture was taken facing straight north.

I don’t think there is a notable difference in drainage on the edges. None of it is particularly well drained though.

 

[356]

In the vein of why re-invent the wheel..And for this coming spring I need some direction on hiding a Muddy blind on a 5' tower that is 30 yards out from a tree line setting just inside CRP ground bordering plot grounds ...
I am looking for tall cover that I can walk behind going in and would also like to surround the blind with whatever seems the best plant option ..(No I do not expect to hide the blind ..just break up it's outline somewhat )
I would hope a one pass 6' wide drill planting would be heavy/wide enough to block movement ..The first 75 yards would be along a creek and shaded 50% of a day ..then of course once out in the field and around the blind would be full sun ..

So what works for you folks?

Bear

I am in a similar planning phase…I want something that will break up the outline of the blind (although as noted by SwampCat, deer seem to become familiarized with permanent stands) and more importantly, provide access cover. I’d like to be able to park my e-bike and/or UTV behind cover. Here are some observations that are helping to inform my plans for the spring:
1) In early fall, the setting sun causes the matt finish on the blind to reflect sunlight more than I would have ever thought possible. From the other blind It looked like someone sending a signal! The ladder also reflects sunlight and looked very unnatural from 300 yards away, so it will need better cover as well.
2) Watching the milkweed when checking wind shows that the tree lines influenced the wind more than I anticipated. A steady south wind pushes east along the trees. I am placing some ribbon markers at 50 yard intervals to help capture wind direction. This might help you determine the access location.
3) My goal would be a perennial cover, so I am leaning towards switchgrass.

Looking forward to other’s comments as this thread will help me plan my spring plans as well.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

I am in a similar planning phase…I want something that will break up the outline of the blind (although as noted by SwampCat, deer seem to become familiarized with permanent stands) and more importantly, provide access cover. I’d like to be able to park my e-bike and/or UTV behind cover. Here are some observations that are helping to inform my plans for the spring:
1) In early fall, the setting sun causes the matt finish on the blind to reflect sunlight more than I would have ever thought possible. From the other blind It looked like someone sending a signal! The ladder also reflects sunlight and looked very unnatural from 300 yards away, so it will need better cover as well.
2) Watching the milkweed when checking wind shows that the tree lines influenced the wind more than I anticipated. A steady south wind pushes east along the trees. I am placing some ribbon markers at 50 yard intervals to help capture wind direction. This might help you determine the access location.

Good point, milkweed has shown my my simple thoughts on wind will bite me in the ass! In the field i posted a picture of above, the east treeline runs straight north/south. A straight west wind seems to hit the top of the trees and it causes some to push down and curl back into the food plot against the direction the wind is coming from! So it almost needs a little north or south to hunt safely from the treeline.

3) My goal would be a perennial cover, so I am leaning towards switchgrass.

Looking forward to other’s comments as this thread will help me plan my spring plans as well.

Perennial is the way to go for sure if possible! Annual work gets old. I don't think switchgrass would be a reliable screen into the later seasons (with snow) for some of us further north.

 

[Brokenbear]

Stupid question I know so hold the guffaws down pleaze!
Is there known such a thing as an“superior “ strain of switch grass .. like taller/hardier than others?

Bear

 

[Wind Gypsy]

Stupid question I know so hold the guffaws down pleaze!
Is there known such a thing as an“superior “ strain of switch grass .. like taller/hardier than others?

Bear

There are different varieties for sure with different attributes. I found specifics somewhat difficult to locate when doing a search.

I've never planted switch so get input from folks who have but... Cave in rock was one of most popular and Kanlow reportedly got taller or as tall as anything else. Big rock is a new variety that reportedly is top dog for height now and is a little quicker growing after being planted.

 

[356]

Stupid question I know so hold the guffaws down pleaze!
Is there known such a thing as an“superior “ strain of switch grass .. like taller/hardier than others?

Bear

I've been reading up on this from our university extension publications and listened to/read some of the hype from a few of the habitats guys on YouTube. The short answer is "yes" there are definitely strains that are better for certain climates and soils. For example, Cave-in-Rock is the "Preferred variety, adapted statewide. Adapted to lowland and upland sites with good palatability and animal gains." (University of Missouri website).

My "plans in pencil" is to frost seed the access runs in January. I have a NT Drill, but frost seeding seems to be a popular way to get this established, and I can do the fall preparations now.

 

[bigboreblr]

You could find a faster grow shrub. Prarie willow or some kind of dogwood. Could make dead branch fencing. Put put posts and 2x4's, then grab branches and drill them into the wood. Done that for ground blinds. Was sitting in one firday like that.

Not blinds, but I have screwed a chunk of 2x8 to the bootm on my treestand floor. 8 inch side down. Then you have a spot to put a few dead branches angling up a bit.

Also, whats you native weeds around there? Stuff like ragweed might grow well. Could transplant some grape vines there too.

 

[willy]

Depending where you are located in the growing seasons of the country, hybrid willows, kanlow switchgrass, miscanthus, and cedars could all be used.

I have used hybrid willows to screen/blend blinds in within two years, miscanthus within 3, and cedars after 5. This is se NE, heavy clay, 25 to 35" precip a year, and in full sun. Where I've planted hybrid willows in partial sun, they have done well also but that was for screening to blinds and such. As long as the area gets at least 8 hrs of good sun a day during growing season and enough rain I thiink you'd be good to go with them and switch paired with cedars for the long run.

Cut the hybrid willow off after 2nd year about 2' above ground. They throw up so many new shoots to almost make a wall. I planted mine 4' apart.

 

[bigboreblr]

tilled ammended and watered often 2 year old poplar. Hate to cut it down. Too big to survive moving from the nusery.