Awaiting graft results

[Bowsnbucks]

Hey apple guys - Now that I've finished my first attempt at grafting - 6 rootstocks - what is the typical time frame until I might know if the grafts have " taken " ?? On the far end - when will I know if any are toast and it's time to give up and maybe snip off the graft and plant the rootstock as is ?? I haven't seen any info on these time frames.

 

[CrazyEd]

You wont have a good idea any time soon IMO. Here's my 2013 grafting results where I kept pretty good records. These trees were all grafted middle-end of april, and very well cared for. If you look at that monster crab towards the middle of the table, it appeared alive but i finally called it dead on August 7.

These grafts started to show signs of light on May 9th. So I would say you could see movement in 2-3 weeks. Maybe sooner maybe longer.

 

[Jordan Selsor]

I agree with Ed. I didn't see much sign of life until about 3 weeks after grafting. I had one graft I thought was dead and it ended up popping a bud after 6-7 weeks. One thing I'd recommend is watch out for full sunlight on those buds. I lost 2 grafts where the buds had leafed and they got scorched and the graft died. They were in partial shade but these two got hit by more sun than the others and the leaves crisped up.

So how much son would you say is ideal for fresh grafts? I got 10 first time grafts

 

[buckvelvet]

If they go straight into a tube, does this improve or have a negative effect for grafted trees?

 

[buckvelvet]

Most apple "experts" don't recommend tree tubes for apples. They will produce a lot of growth inside the tube. Then bad crotch angles will form which lead to more cuts in the tree. They will grow fast enough without tubes.

Dang you learn something every stinkin day with this stuff. So don't tube the grafts just fence and screen them. Interesting...

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Thanks for the info, guys. Any and all comments welcome !! Never enough input. Good to hear from many sources.

 

[sandbur]

Sandbur style tree tubes. I placed the tubes so the trees catchthe mornign sun, but are protected from mid-day heat. And the shaded side stay in place for a year or two for sunscauld protection.

 

[buckvelvet]

Two other things to keep in mind when bench grafting. Label those grafts as soon as you complete the graft with the name, date and rootstock. Also, you will most likely have growth pop out on the rootstock below your graft union. I leave that be until you're positive the graft has taken. If there's multiple shoots you can prune to one.

Good information NH, so glad I have you guys to pull on.

 

[Rally1148]

These grafts are for whip or tongue grafts right? NOT bark or cleft? I'm starting to get nervous about attempting to bark graft on all of my trees!

 

[aerospacefarmer]

I recommend partial brief sun for about a week before letting the grafts get full sun. I didn't lose any for sun scorch but did lose one graft late and had 2 others bud out late. I have done 46 grafts so far and they are currently in my basement with minimal light and temps around 50 to 55 degrees. When I get back home I will get them some outdoor time here and there to acclimate them a bit before deciding if I will put them in ground or in root trappers. I am most interested to see how my last hpyear grafts made it through the winter in the field. So far all but 2 are showing plumping of the buds so I am encouraged. The other 2 were weak at end of fall last year. My grafts are currently in 5 gallon Lowes plastic paint buckets in moist peat moss and am hoping I will see some green when I get home in Sunday. I can get you some Palm tree scionwood if anyone needs it haha

 

[Rally1148]

Rally,

Watch Steve Hayes youtube videos. He does a good job on different types of grafts.

Bark/rind.

Bench grafts.

His videos. https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC4nsuKboTJBTPVnNXmMfpJA

Sorry for jacking the thread!

Those were awesome! I'm feeling a lot better now. I'd seen a few others online, and they made it seem a bit more precise. I'll remember to leave a few branches under where I cut so that if I have all 4 scions not take I'll still have a living tree!

So do you all use wax, or, or a tree-kote type product? I also noticed how he didn't cover the wound from where he cut the trunk. I know that CrazyEd DID cover his. A difference of technique? Opinion? Or just because?

 

[aerospacefarmer]

Moisture and non cambium contact will be the biggest issues you have in grafting so if you coat with wax or tree kate I believe it improves the moisture issue so therefore grafting success

 

[Rally1148]

Moisture and non cambium contact will be the biggest issues you have in grafting so if you coat with wax or tree kate I believe it improves the moisture issue so therefore grafting success

I'll go with treekote! I have some teflon tape I can use if I need to do some finer sealing

Thanks for all of the help, everyone. This forum is amazing!

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Don't worry about hi-jacking a thread that I start !!! :D I'm not that sensitive. All the info that comes about on these threads is free-flowing communication that'll help SOMEONE. I like reading ALL the input people post. Tidbits of experience & knowledge are usually in there. All good.

 

[Jordan Selsor]

Rally,

I'd wrap the graft area with tape and then seal with the wax or tree kote mixture.

Oh boy your scaring me.. I cleft grafted, then waxed BEFORE wrapping! Hope this doesn't screw up my cambium making contact with each other!!!???

 

[aerospacefarmer]

Oh boy your scaring me.. I cleft grafted, then waxed BEFORE wrapping! Hope this doesn't screw up my cambium making contact with each other!!!???

That could be a problem depending on how much cambium contact you achieved when you inserted the scion. Remember the wrap is to bring the split rootstock in to closer contact to scion arrow and help it maintain contact the wax or tree kote helps seal it to prevent moisture from getting into the wound. You may be ok but some of the tree kote could have flowed into the cambiums but only time will tell. An alternative is to get new scionwood and redo the grafts by just cutting the rootstocks below the current graft union

Paul

 

[Freeborn]

Has anybody used rubber budding strips to wrap their grafts. I saw an example of this technique where a whip and tongue graft was wrapped in parafilm and then with a rubber budding strips. No wax was used and the graft was wrapped very tight. Seems the rubber strips do a nice job of making the cambium of the rootstock and scion contact each other. Anybody have any experience with rubber budding strips?

 

[sandbur]

Has anybody used rubber budding strips to wrap their grafts. I saw an example of this technique where a whip and tongue graft was wrapped in parafilm and then with a rubber budding strips. No wax was used and the graft was wrapped very tight. Seems the rubber strips do a nice job of making the cambium of the rootstock and scion contact each other. Anybody have any experience with rubber budding strips?

I tried some this year, Jerry. An old timer gave me some of those rubber grafting strips. I put parafilm over it and also tree kote.

Right or wrong?

 

[Jordan Selsor]

Jordan ,

I hope they make it too. If they don't you could try bud grafts on them in August or you'll have rootstock ready for grafting next year.

I'd definitely recommend you watch Stephen Hayes grafting videos on Youtube. He makes it look easy like anyone can do it.

Thanks for the suggestion! I will start educating myself on Bud grafting. Being this is my first time Im sure I will have some to try this with!

 

[Jordan Selsor]

Great vid! Thx NH mountains
Checked on my grafts today and I got 3 breaking buds nicely. Let's hope the others follow their lead. So far my I55 scions aren't doing anything which is disappointing b/c I was looking forward to those the most.