apple and pear cuttings

jaximus

5 year old buck +
we are starting some LOOOOONG term habitat improvements on a piece of land my brother purchased.

currently the 60 acres has no oak trees at all, and we have some we started indoors this year that we plan to plant in cages later this spring/early summer.

he also plans to have a portion logged. some will be clearcut to promote a poplar thicket and some mature wild pines will be select harvested to let some of the seedlings grow and make better ground cover.

we planted 15 fruit trees in a small orchard area and i grafted 14 apples to crab apple roots i salvaged from some trees the city removed to put in a new sidewalk.

i had approximately 50 scions left after grafting that were too good to just throw away. a mix of pear and apple. being that the land is already undergoing some very long term habitat goals, i figured if i could get some cuttings to root, i would have some standard size trees that would produce down the road.

i soaked the scions in rooting hormone and then stuck them into the smaller wafer type things that they sell for starting tomato plants. my plan is to water them with a rooting hormone mixture probably every 3rd watering. the little netting bags that hold the dirt/peat together seem like they would airprune quite nicely. my thought is that i will let the roots fill the bags (they are 2" diameter and about 3" tall) and get a nice root ball started. my assumption is that i will lose a few along the way that dont root. once i notice a few with nice rootballs, then i can move them to bigger containers or plant them at my brothers land in the area we fenced off to protect them from critters.

we fenced an area with concrete wire approximately 50 ft by 100 feet. we then ran chicken mesh around the bottom and burried about 8" of it to keep rabbits out also. the 13 trees inside the enclosure are also screened. one pear, a golden spice (7 ft tall) is outside the fence as it will be mainly a deer tree. inside that fenced area we have a lot of area between the trees that is protected and gets good sun. i can utilize that area to plant the cuttings once they get some established root mass. then, once they are of acceptable size, move them to their final destination around the property. after the logging (this coming winter) we plan to plant a wildlife orchard in another location. that orchard will be mainly crab and pear trees (most of my cuttings are centennial crabs and golden spice pear).

pretty much what im asking, is if the cuttings stabbed into those little tomato starter things and watered with rooting hormone will actually result in anything? i know it will be a long slow process if it even works at all. 11121530_10100270446824257_1486151949_n.jpg
 
i did score them like this
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    911.1 KB · Views: 15
i go some suckers from the sargent crab in my backyard to root. Right now they're sitting in the ground just until I can move them a little later.
 
IMG_0761_zpsdoa3hcuf.jpg

the apples are struggling

IMG_0762_zpsykjeffxw.jpg

the pears appear to be doing a bit better, but the leaves dont look overly healthy. i keep them watered quite well

IMG_0763_zpsrvvedmig.jpg

pears are in the front, apples in the back for comparison.

they were treated with rooting hormone before going in the pods and have been watered once or twice a day.

every 4th or so watering was done with added Bonide root stimulator.

one of the "paul trees" is starting to bud out and i just got the other fairly recently so it hasnt budged yet. once planted, they will be cared for and screened so they dont get damaged. i lost 2 close father figures to ALS. i teared up reading the card that came with them. i miss you Gary and Dick.
 
one of the "paul trees" is starting to bud out and i just got the other fairly recently so it hasnt budged yet. once planted, they will be cared for and screened so they dont get damaged. i lost 2 close father figures to ALS. i teared up reading the card that came with them. i miss you Gary and Dick.

I really hope you have some success rooting fruit trees... I've tried with very limited success. I suspect there is a method to have reasonable success, I just haven't found it yet. More testing is in order for sure. Glad to see you are giving it a shot. I like the sound of your setup out in the field.... that will keep the critters at bay.

One observation, you likely have too much cutting (scion) sticking out of the 'soil'. It's been my experience that there should be more below ground to root than above ground to leaf out. A bud or two above ground will usually do. But that's the way we've always done it. Maybe with fruit trees the rules change???? Kudos for giving it a shot.

Reference the Paul tree.... I get a lump in my throat every time I stuff the packets for packing slips. I never met Paul, but his story inspired me more than I can say. A good man, and a great family.

-John
 
i was putzing with planting some dogwood and bucky hybrid polar in RM18s and i figured i would check the cuttings to see if anything happened with them or if they needed to be moved. all the apple cuttings appeared to be dead and all the buds/leaves were brown above the soil. below the soil it was the same story. the bark was soft and beginning to rot and no sign at all of life. no go on the apple cuttings, at least with the method i tried. . the pears are green leafy still and im holding out hope that they root. being that the leaves looked okish, i left them and didnt check for roots.
 
i imagine the m111 rooted so easily because its a vigorous rootstock. i like playing with stuff and trying random things to see how they work. i have 25 b118s enroute from grandpas that, depending on how tall they come, i may try air layering or other such fun stuff
 
i got to looking into more info on rooting hormone and found some interesting things. apparently pears are easier to root than apples and crab apples. the hormodin site says that pears need hormodin 1, whereas apples and crabs need hormodin 3. it also shows grapes and dogwoods needing hormodin 3, and im playing around with both of those also. i have some hormodin 3 coming from BigRock.

my first crack at the apple and pear cuttings was attempted with take root brand .1% IBA, the equivalent to hormodin 1. hormodin 3 is .8%
 
Top