Removing tree cages

[Appleman]

Is it possible aluminum screen could retain enough moisture to harm the tree? My trees are packed in snow 5 months a year. I removed all the screen this spring because I didn’t like the ways the trunks looked compared to trees with no screen. It seemed like the trunks were always wet. I am wondering if it has lead to the deaths of chestnuts and liberties that really have no other cause of death.

I have never had problems with using screening. The window screening allows air to ventilate and should dry out the trunk very quickly. I'm not far from you and get the same snowy cold winters you do. With the bitter cold winters we have experienced the past few years don't be surprised winter kill is the culprit. I have 2 liberties and 1 snowsweet that died due to the cold.

 

[Appleman]

In bear free areas I use 6' tall welded wire cages that are about 5' in diameter until I can get the lowest scaffold around 5' or so. That's typically around year 4-6 for me. I actually have a couple B118 Franklins that are big enough to remove the big cages this fall at year 3. I remove the big cages as early as possible so then I have an excuse to put that cage in a different area the following year for a new planting.

Once the big cages are removed I put a 4' tall section of welded wire around the trunk to prevent buck rub damage. I just use a small piece for that to create a trunk cage maybe 8" in diameter. That will stay on indefinitely. I also use aluminum screen around the trunk both with the big cages and also when I have the smaller trunk cage on.

Welded wire works well to stop buck rub damage but does not prevent raccoons and porcupines from climbing up the tree/s to steal your apples. I use metal stove pipe 24 inches above the ground at the bottom of the stove pipe. 24 to 36 inch stove pipe works well. (see pic) We still have apples on the trees during mid-December muzzleloader season.

 

[rocksnstumps]

In bear free areas I use 6' tall welded wire cages that are about 5' in diameter until I can get the lowest scaffold around 5' or so. That's typically around year 4-6 for me. I actually have a couple B118 Franklins that are big enough to remove the big cages this fall at year 3. I remove the big cages as early as possible so then I have an excuse to put that cage in a different area the following year for a new planting.

Once the big cages are removed I put a 4' tall section of welded wire around the trunk to prevent buck rub damage. I just use a small piece for that to create a trunk cage maybe 8" in diameter. That will stay on indefinitely. I also use aluminum screen around the trunk both with the big cages and also when I have the smaller trunk cage on.

^^^^ Pretty much what I do myself these days except my swapout to smaller dia cages is more like 16" -18" and use window screen around everything too even inside vented tubes. My last pic shows a small cage and screen if you look closer. Drain tile is what I tried 6-7 years ago so that is what I have pics of from that time period. As noted moisture can be be a problem as the dia grows to almost filling the pipe so now just do smaller cages and move the original big ones to new plantings. Before the drain tile phase tried just window screen alone. Lost several oaks and apples one year to some ornery buck after having several years of no problems.

 

[BuckSnort]

I decided to take the large fence off my biggest tree last year but replaced it with a smaller one. I’m sure glad I did because there were 4 scrapes on that tree last fall. The trunk would have been in rough shape without it! And don’t worry, the deer will “prune” for you over the winter, anything they can reach anyway.

 

[Tree Spud]

Welded wire works well to stop buck rub damage but does not prevent raccoons and porcupines from climbing up the tree/s to steal your apples. I use metal stove pipe 24 inches above the ground at the bottom of the stove pipe. 24 to 36 inch stove pipe works well. (see pic) We still have apples on the trees during mid-December muzzleloader season.

AM...How do you attach the stove pipe to the tree?

 

[Appleman]

AM...How do you attach the stove pipe to the tree?

I drill two holes opposite each about one inch down from the top edge of the pipe. I then use metal wire with tubing to protect a branch you are hanging it from about 26 inches off the ground. One wire is already threaded and tightened through one hole. I go over a branch and tread the other end of the wire through the second hole and then tighten. There is no need to snap the pipe shut. Have yet to have a critter (Porky's and Raccoons) climb over the pipe.

 

[Charman03]

I’m going to experiment with removing a cage on a bigger tree. What does everyone recommend against buck rubs? You m definitely keeping the aluminum window screen on