Liberty herbicide question

I though the idea of adding gly to Liberty was because liberty was less effective on grasses and gly is very effective on most grasses. As bill said, the only way for resistance to develop is for more naturally resistant weeds to survive and breed while less resistant individuals in the population do not survive and breed. The moves the bell shaped population resistance curve toward more resistance.
 
This field has had gly sprayed on it 4 times in 8 years. Never noticed anything that survived other than clover bouncing back and of course the spots I miss on occasion.
 
Correct me if i'm wrong, Wont the additional 1 oz of gly per acre only further increase the resistant problem? But hey, If your selling a competing herbicide......
He stated one ounce of gly per gallon not acre or I would agree that would be championing the resistance problem.
 
Correct me if i'm wrong, Wont the additional 1 oz of gly per acre only further increase the resistant problem? But hey, If your selling a competing herbicide......
He stated one ounce of gly per gallon not acre or I would agree that would be championing the resistance problem.

Depends on gallons of water used. If it’s 28 gallons on 2.2 acres that’s only about a pint of gly per acre. Not much different with the recommendation of 15 gal per acre . What good is that going to do?


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I think it has a synergistic effect with the glufosinate. Dead is dead, and that's goal in all circumstances even though it often doesn't go down like that. You'll see more and more resistance to most all the herbicides going forward. Liberty, roundup, group 14's, dicamba. The more they get used, the more mistakes, accidents and bad management practices add up. Palmer is 1 that is resisting some of the better chemistries these days. Eventually every acre will be cultivated and walked numerous times, the way things are headed. Knock on wood, our beans are spotless at the moment. The edges have all sorts of weeds flourishing, so I've been trying to stay ahead with machete and spot sprayer. At RK yesterday I saw generic glufosinate was $99/2.5 gal. I think it was interline.
 
Depends on gallons of water used. If it’s 28 gallons on 2.2 acres that’s only about a pint of gly per acre. Not much different with the recommendation of 15 gal per acre . What good is that going to do?


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It was 35 gallons water and 35 ounces of Interline per acre. I usually use 28 gallons for 2 acres but increased to 35 because of the label. Everything that I read online said to treat the gly as an additive to Interline not the other way around. The label also stated to use full rates for your target weeds of both herbicides. My main target was clover. I have had success suppressing clover using 1 ounce per gallon of gly in the past with my sprayer set up. The 15 gallons of water per acre was a minimum for Interline. I needed the clover dead so if the gly set it back the interline should have no issue making sure it was dead. I’ll try better to live up to your lofty standards.
 
No lofty standards just trying to understand.


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No lofty standards just trying to understand.


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That’s fair. I don’t spray often so if there is a better way to meet my goals then I am all ears. I honestly didn’t see a need for 70 ounces of gly mixed with the interline. Time will tell.
 
Something I noticed though is my cocktail foamed up a lot more than I am used. Not sure if that’s an Interline thing, a mixture with gly or perhaps too much AMS.
 
Depends on gallons of water used. If it’s 28 gallons on 2.2 acres that’s only about a pint of gly per acre. Not much different with the recommendation of 15 gal per acre . What good is that going to do?


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If liberty kills it, it doesn't matter how much gly is used. Liberty is not as good as gly on grass. Some grasses can be killed with low amounts of gly. The reason we don't do that when using gly alone is the thing you cite, gly resistance increase with other weeds that require higher gly rates to kill them. The theory is that liberty will kill the problematic weeds that are naturally resistant to gly or have developed a resistance. It will hurt the grasses and the low amounts of gly will do the rest killing the grasses that are just hurt by liberty.

The Liberty-link system is typically used where gly resistance has already developed. The idea here is to minimize the future Liberty resistance by adding gly.

Ok, that is the theory. Will it work? What are the right rates? I don't know. Smarter guys than me do the testing and label the product. I think the safest course of action is to follow the label. Eventually, Liberty resistance will develop just like it did with gly. The idea is to delay this.

I have not used glufosinate yet, so I can't comment on the rates specifically. The 15 gal minimum per acres is probably to ensure even distribution of the product. I just ordered so, so I have some fun ahead of me.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I don’t know about all grasses but the foxtail I sprayed two days ago is yellow. Gly always smoked it fast also.
 
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Thistle, clover, and buckwheat didn’t like the cocktail less than 36 hours after spraying. Grasses, foxtail, and a few others noticeably yellow.
 
I guess this is relevant in this thread.
Neighbor down the road from me had a miss communication with contractor he hired to do his spraying on two 80 acre fields of nice foot tall beans last month, thought they were spraying liberty but they were conventional.

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I can tell you I had no germination issues. Spayed Friday afternoon. Seeded Saturday morning. Received 2” of rain Sat/Sun and had soy beans and winter peas germinating all over the place on Sunday evening. No evidence of any sunflowers that germinated though.
 
I guess this is relevant in this thread.
Neighbor down the road from me had a miss communication with contractor he hired to do his spraying on two 80 acre fields of nice foot tall beans last month, thought they were spraying liberty but they were conventional.

FyYsje2.jpg


Uj5APCo.jpg
Well if nothing else that it looks like a really good spray job. Wonder who’s side the miscommunication was on?
 
In my area, it acts as a reseeding annual. It will come back in the spring along with the WR. When the WR becomes unattractive as it gets older, the crimson will provide some spring food until I'm ready to plant my warm season annuals. This WR/CC/PTT cover crop mix surfaces broadcasts well for me and works as a fall attractant, winter food, and cover crop.

Thanks,

Jack

In my area CC is a resilient reseeding annual. The problem is our deer don't eat enough of it to keep it under control. The CC in these pics was knee high. Two weeks later when we finally got to bush hog, it was waist high. The real problem is these two are also Durrana plots. Thankfully we did not plant CC in any of the other plots.



 
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I am impressed. Picture prolly doesn’t do it justice but this field is dead/dead. You can see the grass to the right near the switch is very yellow. The rest of the field is wilting and looks more gray in person. Germination has been off the charts 24 hours after spraying. It was TreeDaddy or TreeSpud that said timely rains will make us look like a genius. I got a chuckle out of that. I walked this field today and I only found a small strip that I missed that showed signs of life.
 
In my area CC is a resilient reseeding annual. The problem is our deer don't eat enough of it to keep it under control. The CC in these pics was knee high. Two weeks later when we finally got to bush hog, it was waist high. The real problem is these two are also Durrana plots. Thankfully we did not plant CC in any of the other plots.




I tried mixing CC with durana and I was not happy with the results. Where the CC took, the durana never filled in. I stopped adding CC when I plant Durana. I think durana is so slow to establish, that CC just lasts too long where it takes and then summer weeds fill those spots eventually. When I plant durana with only WR and don't add CC or Medium Red, it establishes much better.
 
Hey, I just want to see a field full of those red flowers some day. So I’m going to plant some...
 
I tried mixing CC with durana and I was not happy with the results. Where the CC took, the durana never filled in. I stopped adding CC when I plant Durana. I think durana is so slow to establish, that CC just lasts too long where it takes and then summer weeds fill those spots eventually. When I plant durana with only WR and don't add CC or Medium Red, it establishes much better.

Forgot to mention the CC was planted 5 years ago. That is all regeneration. We just converted to Duranna last fall.
 
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