How much area for fruit trees?

[Mike Bolin]

I presently have a bit more than a .25 acre planted in clover in a fairly secluded area that is bordered on the east and west side by a skidder trail. The skidder trail is planted in a clover/triticale mix. South of the clover plot is a .5 acre triangle shaped section of treetops and small poplar and sycamore trees. I am thinking of clearing out the .25 acre triangle, giving me .75 of an acre that would be kind of oval shaped. It would be 60 yards+/- at the widest (E to W) point and 100 yards+/- long (N to S).

My thought is to plant some fruit trees in this oval shaped plot. From reading here, I am planning on crabapple and pear trees and maybe a persimmon or two. I would seed clover on the entire plot. Depending on the time of year, the plot will get a minimum of 5-6 hours of sunlight per day, except for the exception of the extreme south end of the plot which would get at least 3 hours. Kind of hard to explain, but hopefully you get a general idea. First time planting trees for wildlife so I am not for sure, but I am thinking 6-8 trees and no more than 10 in an area this size.

Any suggestions as to number of trees, layout and spacing and/or any suggestions as to particular types of trees will be appreciated. I am planning on trees in 7-15 gallon containers and I've collected enough reinforcing wire for at least 8 cages. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions! Mike

 

[DrDirtNap]

Sounds similar to what I have done on my property. 3 hours of sunlight is probably not enough for fruit production with most trees so I wouldn’t push too many tees into that area. You also want to consider drainage. You really need a well drained area.


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[Bowsnbucks]

I can't comment on pears - not enough knowledge on them - but crabapples we have plenty of. If you're in a more northern, colder state, we've had good results with All-Winter-Hangover, Dolgo and Winter Wildlife crabs from St. Lawrence Nursery ( SLN ). Chestnut (crab), Trailman and Hyslop crabs have also done really well for us. For regular apples that are pretty headache-free, you might try Liberty & Enterprise. Both very disease resistant varieties. We have 5 of each of those.

If it were me, given your field dimensions, I'd plant the fruit trees at the northern end of the field/opening. That way they get the most sun ( no tall trees blocking sunlight on their south side. ) Spacing would depend on what rootstocks your trees are on - which determines how big they might get. We have Antonovka, B-118 and MM-111 rootstocks on all our trees at camp, and have them spaced at 25' to 28' between them. Those rootstocks will grow trees from 18 ft. to 30 ft. tall. Maybe keep them 40' minimum from existing woods trees to avoid competition for nutrients.

 

[sandbur]

I can't comment on pears - not enough knowledge on them - but crabapples we have plenty of. If you're in a more northern, colder state, we've had good results with All-Winter-Hangover, Dolgo and Winter Wildlife crabs from St. Lawrence Nursery ( SLN ). Chestnut (crab), Trailman and Hyslop crabs have also done really well for us. For regular apples that are pretty headache-free, you might try Liberty & Enterprise. Both very disease resistant varieties. We have 5 of each of those.

If it were me, given your field dimensions, I'd plant the fruit trees at the northern end of the field/opening. That way they get the most sun ( no tall trees blocking sunlight on their south side. ) Spacing would depend on what rootstocks your trees are on - which determines how big they might get. We have Antonovka, B-118 and MM-111 rootstocks on all our trees at camp, and have them spaced at 25' to 28' between them. Those rootstocks will grow trees from 18 ft. to 30 ft. tall. Maybe keep them 40' minimum from existing woods trees to avoid competition for nutrients.

I would add Kerr crab to the above list. Maybe norland for an early apple in the north.


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[Bowsnbucks]

100% agree with Bur. ^^^^^ Kerr slipped my mind - it's a very good choice. We have 3 Kerr at camp.

 

[Mike Bolin]

Appreciate the info thus far. The crabapples are the tree that interests me the most. The wife planted 2 different types in our yard a year ago. One held it's fruit until the bitter cold we've been experiencing for the past couple of weeks. Deer had it gone in no time. The other tree dropped in late October with the same result. Not sure what type they are. Will have to verify the type this spring when they leaf out. Anyone have comments on persimmons?
Thanks-Mike

 

[H20fwler]

For pears you should take a look at Wildlife Group they have some good late season DR varieties...besides the crabs mentioned Northern Whitetail Crab has some good ones, I've got a DropTine crab that is still holding some apples as of today. Both those places are great to deal with email or phone, NWC is showing sold out on some varieties but I think the website just isn't updated I emailed them and they hooked me right up for a spring order.

http://www.wildlifegroup.com/shop-for-pear-trees/

http://www.northernwhitetailcrabs.com/whitetail-tree-selections

 

[Mike Bolin]

!H2Ofwler, thanks for the links