Hack and squirt in winter?

I did the same thing... cut a bunch of locust trees and treated the stumps with straight gly. They came back from root sprouts with a vengeance. I call them "The Medusa's". I have good luck basal spraying with the aforementioned Remedy Ultra, and also Gordons Brush Killer (generic triclopyr, dicamba, and 2-4d) mixed with diesel. I spray the thickets with the same chemical through a foliar application also (when the sprouts are too numerous to threat each one).

Straight gly didn't work for you on locust trees or Tree of Heaven? That's interesting! None of those trees I sprayed came back. This is one of several honey locust I girdled and then sprayed that didn't come back.
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Straight gly didn't work for you on locust trees or Tree of Heaven? That's interesting! None of those trees I sprayed came back. This is one of several honey locust I girdled and then sprayed that didn't come back.
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I don't have Tree of Heaven so no experience there.
No, gly doesn't kill locust on my place. It will kill the tree that I treat, but it's root system shoots up tons of sprouts around the dead trunk/drip line. I may kill one trunk but it creates a much bigger problem. I often wonder if climate has something to do with effectiveness of a treatment. I know there are plants that I have to encourage to grow while others find them invasive in other parts of the country.
 
You may be right about climate. I know the one property I have has cattle. They are more prevalent there (not sure if that's a coincidence or not). The other without cattle has them, but not nearly as many. I will have to monitor the trees to see if there aren't any late breaking suckers coming up. I didn't see any the first year though.
 
Yes, now is the time to do it. When trees go dormant, all of the nutrient flow and fluids move down through the tree to the root system. When the tree comes out of dormancy, the process reverses itself carrying nutrients & fluid upward.

I can't speak for how effective Gly will be as I no longer use it for the purpose you use. I use a 3:1 mix of diesel fuel to Garlon4. The diesel acts as a penetrant to move the Garlon4 through the bark into the cambium. When green up occurs this carries the Garlon4 into the plant structure form a very effective kill.

Spud, I've never tried this mix, but it sounds like something that might work for me when I'm killing sweet gums. It would be nice to skip the hacking and/or cutting.

One question - how far away should you stay from a desirable tree with this mix? Could you spray an undesirable tree within a foot or so of a good tree, or would that be too close?
 
Spud, I've never tried this mix, but it sounds like something that might work for me when I'm killing sweet gums. It would be nice to skip the hacking and/or cutting.

One question - how far away should you stay from a desirable tree with this mix? Could you spray an undesirable tree within a foot or so of a good tree, or would that be too close?

No kidding. I'd like to find out more. I have several different species that I want to kill. Most are saplings. If I can just go through and spay it would be a huge time saver. What effects will this technique have on the surrounding areas? I want to see that the understory will grow and get thick in the years to come.
 
Should work. I use pathfinder 2 which is the same method. It kills locust saplings drt.
 
Spud, I've never tried this mix, but it sounds like something that might work for me when I'm killing sweet gums. It would be nice to skip the hacking and/or cutting.

One question - how far away should you stay from a desirable tree with this mix? Could you spray an undesirable tree within a foot or so of a good tree, or would that be too close?

Native, I have learned the hard way a bit here. I always treat in the winter. Pump sprayers will clog quickly as temps get low as viscosity increases. Even different types of spray nozzles had limited success.

I now use a liquid detergent squirt bottle. I used too much on some small buck thorn saplings in among some birch trees. Mixture seeped down and got to the birch roots.

I will generally run a squirt ring keeping the bottle close to the tree about 12-18" above the ground. Any excess will move down the bark with everything being absorbed into the tree. I stopped hacking or girdling years ago and this works very well on most size trees. I keep a full squirt bottle in my mule as I travel around the property as I continually find buck thorn, box elder, autumn olive, invasive vines, etc.
 
Native, I have learned the hard way a bit here. I always treat in the winter. Pump sprayers will clog quickly as temps get low as viscosity increases. Even different types of spray nozzles had limited success.

I now use a liquid detergent squirt bottle. I used too much on some small buck thorn saplings in among some birch trees. Mixture seeped down and got to the birch roots.

I will generally run a squirt ring keeping the bottle close to the tree about 12-18" above the ground. Any excess will move down the bark with everything being absorbed into the tree. I stopped hacking or girdling years ago and this works very well on most size trees. I keep a full squirt bottle in my mule as I travel around the property as I continually find buck thorn, box elder, autumn olive, invasive vines, etc.

Good Info and thanks.
 
Anyone else from Wisconsin, do deer seem to use bush honeysuckle as a food source very much? From what I've seen, deer do not browse it much at all. If it was a preferred food source around here, it wouldn't be growing so easily. Preferred browse species rarely survive past seedling since due to browse pressure. The deer must have a lot of more preferred food sources around here since they practically ignore honeysuckle.

I know it’s considered an invasive since it’s not really native anywhere in the US to my knowledge. Where I am I have a property that I still lease although I own my own land. Before they started clearing undergrowth in some areas, it was nothing but blowdowns, muktiflora and honeysuckle. The deer would pile into there come wintertime and browse the honeysuckle down to nothing. This was in spite of major AG and apple orchards that had tons of apples on the ground. Every year it Bounced back and the cycle repeated itself. Never spread beyond that area bc it always stayed chewed down to dirt in winter.

Japanese honey suckle or bush honeysuckle?


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https://www.amazon.com/Solo-418-Erg...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M6VDJTZHEY2B495HP7A4
I like this for hack & squirt. I find these to be really handy and much more accurate with a good stream hitting right above the hack and running down into it but not getting so much it runs on the ground. Really fast and easy. Great for basal apps.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Solo-418-Erg...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M6VDJTZHEY2B495HP7A4
I like this for hack & squirt. I find these to be really handy and much more accurate with a good stream hitting right above the hack and running down into it but not getting so much it runs on the ground. Really fast and easy. Great for basal apps.

Have you used with diesel fuel?
 
No I haven't. I have before but not with this little squirter. I do think it has viton rubber in it though. Most Solo's do.
 
Japanese honey suckle or bush honeysuckle?


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aren't they the same thing? whatever it is, the deer don't touch it around here
 
Japanese honey suckle or bush honeysuckle?


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aren't they the same thing? whatever it is, the deer don't touch it around here

No, Japanese honeysuckle is an evergreen vine. Bush honeysuckle is a deciduous shrub.


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Japanese honey suckle or bush honeysuckle?


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aren't they the same thing? whatever it is, the deer don't touch it around here

Big difference. Although both are invasive Japanese honeysuckle doesn’t seem to cause alarm like bush honeysuckle.

I asked which one because I’ve never heard anyone comment positively on bush honeysuckle. It’s usually a four letter word and something I can’t imagine anyone recommending.


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Spud,
When using garlon and diesel for basal spraying on locust, how big of a tree is too big for spraying only? I have some big locust and I'm wondering if the bigger ones require hack and squirt?
 
Spud,
When using garlon and diesel for basal spraying on locust, how big of a tree is too big for spraying only? I have some big locust and I'm wondering if the bigger ones require hack and squirt?

I’m not spud but there isn’t really a tree too big, but as tree size increases, hack and squirt becomes cheaper and faster.


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Spud,
When using garlon and diesel for basal spraying on locust, how big of a tree is too big for spraying only? I have some big locust and I'm wondering if the bigger ones require hack and squirt?

For trees 6 inches or less in diameter using a basal bark treatment of 20% Garlon 4 with 80% basal oil is sufficient. Spray 8" around the entire sapling for maximum effectiveness. For anything greater than 6" in diameter than I'd suggest hack and squirt with at least a 50% mixture of Triclopyr with water. For legumes (Tree-of-heaven, locusts, etc.) adding a 1/4 oz of Milestone to a 48oz. solution of Triclapyr will increase kill rate.
 
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