Hack and squirt in winter?

[westonwhitetail]

I have bush honeyscuckle on my land and want to clear out a couple areas to make space for some tree plantings. The thought was to kill off the bush honey suckle, establish clover and plant trees. Then I can mow the clover and keep the honeysuckle from spreading back in. Im going to start clearing the areas this winter. Does it do any good to apply gly to the stumps now? Or should I cut now and come back and apply it in the spring to prevent them from greening up? Just don't know if the gly will serve it's purpose after 3-4 months of winter if I do it when I clear.

 

[Tree Spud]

Yes, now is the time to do it. When trees go dormant, all of the nutrient flow and fluids move down through the tree to the root system. When the tree comes out of dormancy, the process reverses itself carrying nutrients & fluid upward.

I can't speak for how effective Gly will be as I no longer use it for the purpose you use. I use a 3:1 mix of diesel fuel to Garlon4. The diesel acts as a penetrant to move the Garlon4 through the bark into the cambium. When green up occurs this carries the Garlon4 into the plant structure form a very effective kill.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

I ve had good luck with gly. for cut stump treatment. Just make sure you apply it right away. If you were to come back at a later time you would have to recut the stump before treating.

 

[yoderjac]

I ve had good luck with gly. for cut stump treatment. Just make sure you apply it right away. If you were to come back at a later time you would have to recut the stump before treating.

I have most success if it is done within the hour after cutting. I use straight gly with a paint brush and paint the cambium layer. You can also mix gly with diesel.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[westonwhitetail]

Great thanks everyone.

 

[Tree Spud]

Great thanks everyone.

You can try garlon4 & diesel without having to cut or hack ... it will penetrate the bark.

 

[Catscratch]

Yes, chemical cambium treatment works in the winter.
If I were you I would do my clearing and spraying this winter and then a follow up this spring to see if anything came back up from root.

 

[westonwhitetail]

You can try garlon4 & diesel without having to cut or hack ... it will penetrate the bark.

Thanks, I want to clear it to plant trees anyway. I'll keep that in mind for the future though..

 

[blueKYstream]

I did quite a bit of hack and squirt last year and started up again yesterday. The straight glyphosate (I used 40-45%) worked well on all stumps I sprayed, except I noticed that it didn't kill an osage orange tree I sprayed. I'll have to look closer at another set of osage orange stumps I sprayed to see if that was a one-time deal or if it didn't work on all of them. It worked well for me, however, on black locust, autumn olive, honeysuckle, honey locust, etc. I used an old spray bottle with a couple drops of dye (though it isn't necessary it helps easily see which stumps you've sprayed). Be sure to wear gloves!

 

[westonwhitetail]

I did quite a bit of hack and squirt last year and started up again yesterday. The straight glyphosate (I used 40-45%) worked well on all stumps I sprayed, except I noticed that it didn't kill an osage orange tree I sprayed. I'll have to look closer at another set of osage orange stumps I sprayed to see if that was a one-time deal or if it didn't work on all of them. It worked well for me, however, on black locust, autumn olive, honeysuckle, honey locust, etc. I used an old spray bottle with a couple drops of dye (though it isn't necessary it helps easily see which stumps you've sprayed). Be sure to wear gloves!

Thanks for the tip on the dye! I plan to use 41% Gly too as I usually have that on hand

 

[Turkish]

It seems I’ve read some of you talk about drilling a hole for the herbicide, rather than using a hatchet or cutting tool. Anyone care to elaborate on pros and cons of the 2 methods?

 

[Livesintrees]

I wish I had some honeysuckle here for the food value. I know you can cut bush back every year to prevent it from seeding but remain a food source. Have you considered that? Feel free to send some of it my way!

 

[bornagain62511]

I wish I had some honeysuckle here for the food value. I know you can cut bush back every year to prevent it from seeding but remain a food source. Have you considered that? Feel free to send some of it my way!

Anyone else from Wisconsin, do deer seem to use bush honeysuckle as a food source very much? From what I've seen, deer do not browse it much at all. If it was a preferred food source around here, it wouldn't be growing so easily. Preferred browse species rarely survive past seedling since due to browse pressure. The deer must have a lot of more preferred food sources around here since they practically ignore honeysuckle.

 

[Livesintrees]

Anyone else from Wisconsin, do deer seem to use bush honeysuckle as a food source very much? From what I've seen, deer do not browse it much at all. If it was a preferred food source around here, it wouldn't be growing so easily. Preferred browse species rarely survive past seedling since due to browse pressure. The deer must have a lot of more preferred food sources around here since they practically ignore honeysuckle.

I know it’s considered an invasive since it’s not really native anywhere in the US to my knowledge. Where I am I have a property that I still lease although I own my own land. Before they started clearing undergrowth in some areas, it was nothing but blowdowns, muktiflora and honeysuckle. The deer would pile into there come wintertime and browse the honeysuckle down to nothing. This was in spite of major AG and apple orchards that had tons of apples on the ground. Every year it Bounced back and the cycle repeated itself. Never spread beyond that area bc it always stayed chewed down to dirt in winter.

 

[Livesintrees]

I don’t know how it would transplant in winter or if it would need to be grown indoors till spring, but I’d love to have some to introduce into my bedding areas. I’d let it spread out for a year, evaluate and manage as needed. It’s like candy here.

 

[blueKYstream]

I did quite a bit of hack and squirt last year and started up again yesterday. The straight glyphosate (I used 40-45%) worked well on all stumps I sprayed, except I noticed that it didn't kill an osage orange tree I sprayed. I'll have to look closer at another set of osage orange stumps I sprayed to see if that was a one-time deal or if it didn't work on all of them. It worked well for me, however, on black locust, autumn olive, honeysuckle, honey locust, etc. I used an old spray bottle with a couple drops of dye (though it isn't necessary it helps easily see which stumps you've sprayed). Be sure to wear gloves!

I was able to check on another group of trees I cut and sprayed including cabapple or osage orange trees. The glyphosate did NOT kill those set of stumps either. I saw they sprouted back. It seemed to do well with other trees though.

For what it's worth, I have some video of several deer stop at a particular honeysuck bush. I tried to upload the video, but the extension isn't allowed so I screenshot the video. Anyways, honeysuckle is supposedly not high quality forage, but they will eat it. It's highly invasive where I am along with Russian Autumn Olive. I would plant other stuff given the choice, but up to you.

 

[Catscratch]

Remedy Ultra mixed with diesel will kill the osage orange.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Cap'n]

It seems I’ve read some of you talk about drilling a hole for the herbicide, rather than using a hatchet or cutting tool. Anyone care to elaborate on pros and cons of the 2 methods?

You’d be better off with H&S. Drilling into the heartwood of the tree is like getting a shot in your bone instead of your veins. The cambium layer is the trees veins and it is just inside of the bark. H&S exposes a greater amount of that layer to what ever you are squirting and also helps keep it off the soil around the tree so non target plants don’t get hit too.

 

[roymunson]

You can try garlon4 & diesel without having to cut or hack ... it will penetrate the bark.

I did this on a couple tree of heaven. Wanted to kill 2 of the smaller trees and leave the larger one, but it was so effective it back traced thru the roots and killed em all.

I walked around with a backpack sprayer trying to nuke the 400 million (give or take) locust shoots that took off when we cut their parents. Didn't work nearly as well and my 4' pines were stunted all summer. Planning on running a chainsaw and having my wife follow with a backpack unit to spray the stumps. Should be a romantic date with the gal.

 

[Catscratch]

I did this on a couple tree of heaven. Wanted to kill 2 of the smaller trees and leave the larger one, but it was so effective it back traced thru the roots and killed em all.

I walked around with a backpack sprayer trying to nuke the 400 million (give or take) locust shoots that took off when we cut their parents. Didn't work nearly as well and my 4' pines were stunted all summer. Planning on running a chainsaw and having my wife follow with a backpack unit to spray the stumps. Should be a romantic date with the gal.

I did the same thing... cut a bunch of locust trees and treated the stumps with straight gly. They came back from root sprouts with a vengeance. I call them "The Medusa's". I have good luck basal spraying with the aforementioned Remedy Ultra, and also Gordons Brush Killer (generic triclopyr, dicamba, and 2-4d) mixed with diesel. I spray the thickets with the same chemical through a foliar application also (when the sprouts are too numerous to threat each one).