Garage Ideas

mtholton

5 year old buck +
Hi All,

Hoping to pick your brains. I'm planning on having a garage built this spring on my hunting land. I live about a hour away and am hoping to build a garage to store my equipment (atv, trailer, gear etc), with a finished attic/bunk space. Would put a couple of bunk beds, couch, and a thats about all we would want/need. Total crew size myself and my dad, and my two boys down the road.. Just need a heated space to sleep a few nights during the rut and nothing fancy (again live only a hour away) so trying to balance needs with cost. Planned on doing some type of dry flush toilet (or just the old bucket and bag combo) under the stairs. Maybe put a oven in the garage portion and keep the attic a scent limited zone (ie no cooking etc). Would like to incorporate a ozone closest as well perhaps segment off a entry in the garage and put it there.

Garage style: Something like this size/style: http://www.kenskarpentry.com/cape.html

Has anyone built this type of arrangement and is there anything you would recommend I keep in mind when putting the plans together this winter?
 
I have, and am still finishing it off. While I do really like it, it would be a lot cheaper, and more usable later if I would have just made the garage bigger, and built the living quarters on the main floor. A few things that were a PITA, the extra height that was needed to get the living quarters, means lifting everything higher, the extra cost of having to build extra strength tresses to support the living quarters. Also another expense, and complete change to my plans was being it had a living quarters above the garage, the entire lower section needed to be up to code for fire, meaning to have 5/8 firegaurd drywall, and taped and mudded in the garage, insulated air tight to prevent exhaust fumes. A seperate HVAC system for both, with air exchanger, all to meet code becuase of the living quarters. A lot of extra expenses that I wasnt expecting, but I really do like it!

If you were to just build it on the main floor of the garage, and just build the garage a little bigger, if you ever wanted to build a house there, you then could just remove the living quarters, and have a larger garage! I will see what I have for recent pictures.
 
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What started off as a plan from a Menards $20,000 garage blew up into this. Some of these pictures are not current, but they show the just of it.

Put in radiant floor heat! It’s something you need to plan for ahead of time, but well worth it! If you live in a cold climate.


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I always learn something on these!

My plan was to have the garage inspected then just finish the upstairs at a later point perhaps avoiding some of the code stuff since we will literally sleep there 5 nights a year.. Just trying to upgrade over our moldy 1978 camper. I think the code would require septic etc if there was a real dwelling in it.... Tough to justify a septic for 3 dumps a year:)


I have, and am still finishing it off. While I do really like it, it would be a lot cheaper, and more usable later if I would have just made the garage bigger, and built the living quarters on the main floor. A few things that were a PITA, the extra height that was needed to get the living quarters, means lifting everything higher, the extra cost of having to build extra strength tresses to support the living quarters. Also another expense, and complete change to my plans was being it had a living quarters above the garage, the entire lower section needed to be up to code for fire, meaning to have 5/8 firegaurd drywall, and taped and mudded in the garage, insulated air tight to prevent exhaust fumes. A seperate HVAC system for both, with air exchanger, all to meet code becuase of the living quarters. A lot of extra expenses that I wasnt expecting, but I really do like it!

If you were to just build it on the main floor of the garage, and just build the garage a little bigger, if you ever wanted to build a house there, you then could just remove the living quarters, and have a larger garage! I qill see what I have for recent pictures.[/QUOTE
 
What started off as a plan from a Menards $20,000 garage blew up into this. Some of these pictures are not current, but they show the just of it.

Put in radiant floor heat! It’s something you need to plan for ahead of time, but well worth it! If you live in a cold climate.


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Impressive! Thank you for sharing.
 
Build a garage and buy a newer camper. You can find pretty decent ones for under $10k. Build the garage high enough you can back it in when you get there.
 
I would just build an outhouse if you aren't going to have septic or a holding tank.
 
Hi All,

Hoping to pick your brains. I'm planning on having a garage built this spring on my hunting land. I live about a hour away and am hoping to build a garage to store my equipment (atv, trailer, gear etc), with a finished attic/bunk space. Would put a couple of bunk beds, couch, and a thats about all we would want/need. Total crew size myself and my dad, and my two boys down the road.. Just need a heated space to sleep a few nights during the rut and nothing fancy (again live only a hour away) so trying to balance needs with cost. Planned on doing some type of dry flush toilet (or just the old bucket and bag combo) under the stairs. Maybe put a oven in the garage portion and keep the attic a scent limited zone (ie no cooking etc). Would like to incorporate a ozone closest as well perhaps segment off a entry in the garage and put it there.

Garage style: Something like this size/style: http://www.kenskarpentry.com/cape.html

Has anyone built this type of arrangement and is there anything you would recommend I keep in mind when putting the plans together this winter?

You should probably state building footprint dimensions. based on pic, you will fill up lower space in no time at all, upper space will be real restricted. With gas power atvs and a spark source (furnace, space heater, etc.) you have a death trap above.

Without a cement slab, and "lots" of attention to metal siding, flashing, etc. could be a mouse trap just like your camper.

How are you going to heat? Ventallation. safety, etc. are real concerns.

An inside electric compost toilet does wonders for morale ...
 
I'm a fairly strong advocate for pay once, cry once.I can think of very few times in my life where I looked back and regretted spending more time and money on something to make it better. I can think of many examples where I wished I'd spent the money to do things right years after I thought I needed to save a few bucks. Just remember, long after you have forgotten about the money you saved, you will still be dealing with the corners you cut.
At the very least, I would build it septic tank ready, even if you don't actually put the system in the ground now. Same goes for running water, electricity, tv or internet cable. You don't need all this stuff, but if you don't wire/plumb for it all now it is much harder and more expensive to add in the future. Having those comforts there also make it much more likely that your wife/family will want to come down and stay in the cabin with you. (maybe that's what you want to avoid:emoji_laughing:) You might plan on just a few days a year, but a nice living area may become something you stay in a lot more often. Good luck and have fun!
 
I built a 30x40 stick built building that's half garage, half finished living quarters. The living quarters has two bedrooms, a bathroom and a kitchen/living room combo. I also have a overhang on one end so we have a porch to sit on. I had a well on the property already, so I decided to add electricity and plumbing. I couldn't meet the septic perc test, so I have a tank system that has to get pumped about once a year. Remember to add more lights on the interior and exterior than you think you need. Same goes for outlets. Also, add plenty of windows and make them big. You can never have too much natural light in a cabin.

On my property in WI the code rules are pretty strict and they were very clear about fines if a garage is used as a dwelling even if only during deer season.

Even if you don't think you want power or water now, have an electrician and plumber run pipe and wires under the foundation before the concrete is poured. It will cost you a couple hundred bucks and dramatically decrease headaches down the road if you decide to add those items. There is really no inexpensive way to make a high quality building, but I'd rather spend more up front and have a nice building than go cheap and regret it for the next 30 years.
 
How many "toys" do you plan on putting in there? 24' x 24' is simply a 2 car garage. I have a 24' x 30' (I think). If I put my car in one bay and my 30hp tractor and 6 foot rotary mower in the other....I have a work bench area and it's full. Essentially you have to pull something outside if you have any need for some real room. And remember your going to loose some room with the stairs as well.

Concrete is great - I recommend a floor drain system of some sort.

Also keep in mind anything you need for your bunk area upstairs you have to carry.....up stairs. If the stairs themselves don't get you...it's the stupid corners and bends you have to fight at the top and bottom that do!

I would also be looking into a lean-too or two on the ends to help get you some covered areas to work or relax under or to simply store non-critical (plows, discs, blades) equipment under.
 
I'm a fairly strong advocate for pay once, cry once.I can think of very few times in my life where I looked back and regretted spending more time and money on something to make it better. I can think of many examples where I wished I'd spent the money to do things right years after I thought I needed to save a few bucks. Just remember, long after you have forgotten about the money you saved, you will still be dealing with the corners you cut.

This is spot on!

First thing to consider is, if you are adding a structure to vacant land, what is re-sale value? Are you putting a crappy structure in the best building spot? What you are willing to live with is not important.

Second consideration ... if you build and don't have code approval ... is the structure a tear or burn down so the next owner can start from scratch.

A smart buyer will give you your asking price then beat you down with inspection contingencies to make the sale. They will leverage you to accept liability on anything that does not meet code.

Suggestion ... build it twice the size, metal siding as that more adaptable to remodeling, plum through concrete slab that you want septic, well water connection, electrical, and propane natural gas line. You don't have to do all that, just have the it plumbed and capped.

Or ... build and overhang, lay gravel all around it with a great fire pit and pull in a camper. Tell most to get a hotel room ... :emoji_wink:
 
How about a garage made from 20 or 40 ft shipping containers? There are some pretty cool designs out there. One side for sleeping and one for equipment. More secure than a garage and no concrete needed. Heck, you could even put a fire pit in the middle :emoji_thinking:



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Boy, some really good suggestions in here. I’m going through this myself right now. I bought a 200 ac farm last year that has an existing 60x100 metal building. This building was built with a gravel floor and the previous owner came in after the fact and finished off a living quarters with a partial concrete floor and some bare bones/creative engineering for water, plumbing, etc. This is my second season in the place and it will definitely be the last. While it suffices, it’s a mess...huge mouse trap, partially functioning toilet, mold and mildew mess, etc. I’m now in the process of planning for a new build and will have to go through the hassle of ripping all this crap out now to open up the rest of the building to use it as a shop again.

I am also a buy once cry once person so I had plans drawn for a 60x40 with 40x40 lining quarters and 20x40 shop. Going to general contract it myself (with a local friend who’s a builder) and do it right. I also live an hour from my land, but having a nicer, comfy place to crash will increases the amount of time the family wants to spend up there. A good buddy of mine is a realtor and the money I’m putting into the building will translate pretty closely to a direct appreciation in value as well (so long as it’s a quality built, well constructed building). Additionally there could be some tax incentives as well if your land produces any income. My entire structure, living quarters and all, will be deductible. After living 14 days a year in a “half assed” structure for a couple seasons I can’t wait to get into something lose maintenance, safer and more comfortable.
 
Boy, some really good suggestions in here. I’m going through this myself right now. I bought a 200 ac farm last year that has an existing 60x100 metal building. This building was built with a gravel floor and the previous owner came in after the fact and finished off a living quarters with a partial concrete floor and some bare bones/creative engineering for water, plumbing, etc. This is my second season in the place and it will definitely be the last. While it suffices, it’s a mess...huge mouse trap, partially functioning toilet, mold and mildew mess, etc. I’m now in the process of planning for a new build and will have to go through the hassle of ripping all this crap out now to open up the rest of the building to use it as a shop again.

I am also a buy once cry once person so I had plans drawn for a 60x40 with 40x40 lining quarters and 20x40 shop. Going to general contract it myself (with a local friend who’s a builder) and do it right. I also live an hour from my land, but having a nicer, comfy place to crash will increases the amount of time the family wants to spend up there. A good buddy of mine is a realtor and the money I’m putting into the building will translate pretty closely to a direct appreciation in value as well (so long as it’s a quality built, well constructed building). Additionally there could be some tax incentives as well if your land produces any income. My entire structure, living quarters and all, will be deductible. After living 14 days a year in a “half assed” structure for a couple seasons I can’t wait to get into something lose maintenance, safer and more comfortable.

I would plan on at least doubling the shop space and include a concrete floor so you can seal against mice. You would be amazed at how quickly quickly you will fill up that small of shop space which looks pretty limited to store potential ATVs, tractor, hunting stands, shelves, etc.
 
I would plan on at least doubling the shop space and include a concrete floor so you can seal against mice. You would be amazed at how quickly quickly you will fill up that small of shop space which looks pretty limited to store potential ATVs, tractor, hunting stands, shelves, etc.

It’s being built next to my 60x100 shop. Shop will have all the equipment. I’ll only be putting my ATV in the shouse garage so it doesn’t need to be large. The building will be built like a house; radiant heat floors, wood stove insert, full kitchen, 2 baths, mud room, 2 full bedrooms down and loft upstairs, etc. Ultimately I’ll have a 40x60 “house” and a 60x100 barn/shop. The 40x60 will be full concrete with radiant heat and covered porches on both sides. Ultimately you could easily live in the 40x60 once completed.
 
It’s being built next to my 60x100 shop. Shop will have all the equipment. I’ll only be putting my ATV in the shouse garage so it doesn’t need to be large. The building will be built like a house; radiant heat floors, wood stove insert, full kitchen, 2 baths, mud room, 2 full bedrooms down and loft upstairs, etc. Ultimately I’ll have a 40x60 “house” and a 60x100 barn/shop. The 40x60 will be full concrete with radiant heat and covered porches on both sides. Ultimately you could easily live in the 40x60 once completed.

Mice, rodents, squirrels love electrical wiring ... they nest and chew ... good luck
 
Mice, rodents, squirrels love electrical wiring ... they nest and chew ... good luck
Not sure what you’re saying here? Don’t build something for fear of rodents? There’s no difference between what I’m building and and a stick built home other than the exterior. I have engineered floor plans and the whole 9 yards. If rodents get into this they’ll get into your house. My whole point with the original post was to suggest “cry once” by putting more into it. When finished with this it’ll be the same as a house (for all intents and purposes).
 

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Just saying that increasing the garage to allow for more items (atvs, deer stands, hunting cloths in tubs, etc.) to be stored is always easier on the initial build and seldom regretted. In your other barn, I assume there will be birds, bats, pigeons, etc. roosting and crapping on items. Mice, squirrels, and rodents building nests where they shouldn't and possibly chewing on wiring. With that heated floor, working on stuff in the cold winter will be more tolerable.

A good overhang off your garage wall would be good for firewood and other stuff.

We recently built a 40x90 building with main barn being 65x40 and a workshop being 26x20. There is a 26x40 living area above the workshop. Whole area has a heated floor. A tractor, implements, atv, utv, lawn mower, log splitter, etc. sure consume space. There is a 16' overhang off the back wall. We also have floor drains for when equipment is wet or snowy. This was our 2nd building like this and the 1st was 36x66. Learned alot about what we wanted for this new one.

Just throwing out something something to consider ... as you stated, pay once, cry once.
 
Just saying that increasing the garage to allow for more items (atvs, deer stands, hunting cloths in tubs, etc.) to be stored is always easier on the initial build and seldom regretted. In your other barn, I assume there will be birds, bats, pigeons, etc. roosting and crapping on items. Mice, squirrels, and rodents building nests where they shouldn't and possibly chewing on wiring. With that heated floor, working on stuff in the cold winter will be more tolerable.

A good overhang off your garage wall would be good for firewood and other stuff.

We recently built a 40x90 building with main barn being 65x40 and a workshop being 26x20. There is a 26x40 living area above the workshop. Whole area has a heated floor. A tractor, implements, atv, utv, lawn mower, log splitter, etc. sure consume space. There is a 16' overhang off the back wall. We also have floor drains for when equipment is wet or snowy. This was our 2nd building like this and the 1st was 36x66. Learned alot about what we wanted for this new one.

Just throwing out something something to consider ... as you stated, pay once, cry once.

Gotcha. The 60x100 shop is 20 years old and has all manner of critters get in and out of it. I store all my equipment in there as did the previous owner. I’m not worried about keeping stuff out of it. It keeps my tractor and equipment dry and out of the elements, which is really all it’ll be used for once I build the new place. When I was growing up we kept all our tractors and equipment outside, either covered by a tarp, or under an overhang on the shop. Every now and again a mouse will decide to create a nest in a non ideal location...but for us that’s just become part of doing business in the country.

The new building for living, the old one for equipment storage. I’ll have a good chunk of money into the new building so I’m planning to only need to cry once with it. It’s budgeted like I’m building a second house so not much additional room left for another large shop.
 
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