Tree soil

Black Swamp

5 year old buck +
Anyone ever back fill there bare root trees or shrubs with a tree and shrub soil sold @ places like lowes?
 
Yep. Only out of convenience. I dig as narrow a hole as I can that'll get deep enough to stretch out the root and then fill with simple "top soil" from any big box. I have wrestled enough mucky clumps of forest sod trying to make back fill that I just spend the money on buying it instead. Only costs about $1/tree and I'm far happier for it.
 
I wouldn't use anything with fertilizer in it. Just plain top soil will work just fine. If you have really big holes like for fruit trees then a mixture of top soil with composted manure works really well.
 
Yep. Only out of convenience. I dig as narrow a hole as I can that'll get deep enough to stretch out the root and then fill with simple "top soil" from any big box. I have wrestled enough mucky clumps of forest sod trying to make back fill that I just spend the money on buying it instead. Only costs about $1/tree and I'm far happier for it.

I have done this as well. I use just plain top soil, as was stated because it is easier than wrestling with what comes out of the hole many times. So far the trees I have done this way have done fine.
 
I have done this as well. I think it helps the tree start faster myself. When the tree is planted I put leaves or grass over the dirt to lock in a little moisture. It's back breaking busting those sod clumps up!
 
I've added topsoil, manure, pellet lime, etc... to planting holes when putting fruit trees in. But with barefoot shrubs I don't add anything. I cut the sod off and toss it to the side. By not using the sod and not adding any soil, my newly planted shrubs end up being an inch or two lower than the ground surrounding it. A big plus for survival in my dry sand.
 
I use native soil and add aged mushroom compost. It's black & crumbly and loaded with organic goodies, humus, microbes, etc. I get it for $15 for a heaping pick-up full from a bulk dealer.
 
I dig with a tile spade, so my holes are a little bigger than a half gallon milk jug. Those roots won't have to go far to get back into native soil anyway.
 
I use a mix of black dirt and peat moss.
 
I go to my compost pile which is made up of a yearly deposit of store-bought soil from my wife's deck plants, kitchen scraps, older horse manure, and ashes from my wood burner. I scoop that up in my front loader and mix it with the dirt I dig for the planting hole.
 
Here is some good advice for planting apple trees. Best native soils are sandy loam or black loam. Avoid clays, wet areas, and shallow areas to ledge or hard pan. Peat Moss has a low PH of around 4.5 and is not recommended. Lowering the soil PH will inhibits nutrient uptake. Ideal PH for apple trees is 6.2 to 6.7. Use of animal waste (manures) will increase acidity (lowering PH) and is not recommended. Wood ash acts a lot like lime and raise PH. Since most sites are slightly acidic use can improve PH within target range but apply along the drip edge as too much in the hole could damage the root system. If your soils are poor lacking in organic matter, mostly a subsoil base, or very sandy, a mixture of rich black loam soil added to the planting hole will start your trees off right. After planting, wait until the tree starts to leaf and apply .5 lbs of either the following: 10-10-10 or CA Nitrite, or PA Nitrite. Apply one application in the first year of planting. The following years add .5lbs of fertilizer per year of tree, once when the green leaf start to show and again 6 weeks later but before July 1st ( application after July 1st will encourage growth giving tender shoots not enough time to harden off for winter in colder climates). Some Nutrients like CA and Boron are untaken more readily through the leaf and not the root system. Foliar sprays are used for this purpose, but follow the label carefully.
 
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Do you just scatter the fertilizer/lime around the drip line or do you punch holes and put it down in the ground? I've got 5 x 5 lumite around my trees and wondered if I should just throw on top.
 
I simply ground apply both fertilizer and lime around the tree drip line. You may get some benefit applying down a hole but I question if it is really worth the time and money spent.
 
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