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DrewMc

5 year old buck +
I recently came across this article suggesting that crisscrossing the grafts is the best option. I'm already in year 3, so is this even still doable at this point? I'm concerned about breaking the grafts at this point.

 
Are you growing your trees on a high density trellis system? That's what he system they're recommending it for.
 
Pics of the tree would be helpful. Trellis is a whole different critter. Pretty much treating them like grapes.
 
No, but do I leave both grafts or eventually trim down to one? These pics are from last year. They are pears too.
 

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No, but do I leave both grafts or eventually trim down to one? These pics are from last year. They are pears too.
Depends a bit on the fruit variety and the style of tree structure you are going for. Most of the time I would take off any extra terminal grafts after 2-3 growing seasons. Narrow crotch angles are bad structure. They tend to be weak points and be potential sites for rot.
 
These are Kieffer, Moonglow and Deer pears. Looking for best case of survivability and fruit producing.
 
I'll have to read my pruning book for a good answer here. If those were apple trees at this point in growth, I would keep the open center. I would try to train / bend the 2 grafts apart, call these 2 180 apart. Then take a low lateral offshoot to make a 90 degree leg. If you got a large lateral low on one of them, you could make a 3 main branch open center. Might be better with smaller sized rootstock.

Pears don't react to pruning quite like apple trees. Crotch angles are important, but a bit less so with pear trees. I only got 3 pear trees and 70 apples, so cant speak much for them. Especially mine aren't doing what I want them to either.

In the commercial fruit tree world here in NY, open center for pears is more common. Might be hard pressed to find a central leader. Modified central leader, kind of a one main shoot zig zagging up, is probably what you'd find other than open center.
 
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