Starting a new food plot

[S.T.Fanatic]

If you have good fire breaks and don't burn when the humidity is to low and the wind is to high you wont have anything to worry about. On cooer days the fire will burn slower and on hot days it will really blaze so you do need to do your research and get plenty of help as well as contact your local fire departments and have all the permits activated and in hand.

 

[john egerer]

I think I'm going to burn, this plot has been idle for such a long time there is a very thick thatch of dead undergrowth that would be hard to deal with without burning, I will go at it very carefully thanks

 

[yoderjac]

I think I'm going to burn, this plot has been idle for such a long time there is a very thick thatch of dead undergrowth that would be hard to deal with without burning, I will go at it very carefully thanks

On the QDMA thread there was a great thread on "Thirt". You might want to read that before burning... But now that that forum is gone I guess you can't. It argues for the benefits of thatch with a bit of soil mixed in. If your thatch his fescue, that is a completely different story. In that case you should read up on controlling fescue. It is not easy. If it is just weeds and goldenrod, bushhog it flat as soon as you don't have snow on the ground.

In some cases fire may be necessary, but that is not the norm. You are trading off OM when using it.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Northbound]

I'd second what jack said... I used to burn alot. It's fun to drink beer and burn stuff ya know. However I've learned it's not worth the fun. I seem to get crazy weed problems after burning a plot. Far more than after tiling. In your case I'd consider spray. Throw. Mow. Light light disc and spray again.

Now if you have pheasants, that's a different game than typical deer food plot. My honey hole bird spots I still burn on occasion