Staking apple tree question

[ToddG]

I have 6 apple trees on M.111 and they are 4th leaf. The trees don't seem to be well anchored. Will I damage the tree if I drive a t-post about 6" from the trunk to anchor the trees. I plan on using just the one t-post and if I need more height, I will mount a 3/4 conduit to the post. The trees are loaded with apples so I am going to thin them when weather permits.
Thanks,

 

[Bob in Ohio]

I have 6 apple trees on M.111 and they are 4th leaf. The trees don't seem to be well anchored. Will I damage the tree if I drive a t-post about 6" from the trunk to anchor the trees. I plan on using just the one t-post and if I need more height, I will mount a 3/4 conduit to the post. The trees are loaded with apples so I am going to thin them when weather permits.
Thanks,

That is surprising your M111 are not anchoring well. M111 is known for being a well anchored rootstock. There are many ways to anchor a tree besides driving a t-post beside it. If you do use a t-post.. what I do is knock off the flat metal on the bottom of it to lesson the chance of cutting a large root, or you could just carefully place the post and stop if you hit any resistance.

 

[Turkey Creek]

I would use two T -posts about 2-3' apart and then tie the tree off to both posts. What reason do you feel the trees are not anchored well? Loose soil, underground damage from rodents, extremely rocky soil? I would probably go so far as to remove almost all the fruit if I was really concerned about the stability of the tree at this point, until I could resolve the rooting issue for the long term.

 

[Natureboy]

I had several trees on B118 rootstock that were not well anchored and tended to move when it was windy. I used two T- posts each one about 1 foot away and on opposite sides of the tree trunk. I positioned the flat metal bottom of the T-post up. A couple of hits with the post driver easily knocked the piece off, I then secured the tree to the posts and it corrected the problem. I my case, I think the problem was caused by both my soil being rocky and the fact that I had trimmed my trees for height and the tree seemed to get ahead of the root system.

 

[ToddG]

I would use two T -posts about 2-3' apart and then tie the tree off to both posts. What reason do you feel the trees are not anchored well? Loose soil, underground damage from rodents, extremely rocky soil? I would probably go so far as to remove almost all the fruit if I was really concerned about the stability of the tree at this point, until I could resolve the rooting issue for the long term.

Clay soil with no rocks and I don't think there is any rodent damage. When I shake the tree, I can see the trunk moving at ground level. This may be normal. I am new to this and might be making a mountain out of a mole hill.

 

[Jhoss]

Keep an eye on them - they will fall over on you. I have a Goldrush that was so loaded with fruit last fall it started leaning with the wind. I was quite convince it would be completely down with a little more time/weight of fruit load and some more good westerly wind (my prevailing - wind out of the west)...I planted a fencepost deep then ran ratchet straps in two spots. Not only was I trying to support it but with a couple of clicks every week or so..brought it back to standing upright.