Soybean browse pressure questions

[Binney59]

I have a 3 acre and a just under 2 acre plot of ag beans that I planted in Central Wisconsin that has been e-fenced with minimal success. When I first set up the fence I did not have enough fiberglass poles so there were low spots and the deer were able to get in. Since then, it has been a continual struggle to keep the deer out.

The plants are all browsed but still growing and well leafed out. My question is how much browse can beans handle to the point where they still produce pods? The beans are growing but not fully canopied. I already broadcasted brassicas in the field, particularly in the areas with heavy browse but I am real curious if I will end up with any pods or not?

I would have thought I would see more flowers in the beans by now but since I do not live on the property it is tough to tell exactly whats happening with them. For those in WI, when do you beans usually flower and when do you generally start to see pod production? Thanks for the help!

 

[Binney59]

Also, do deer tend to browse on flowers and young pods or are the leaves what they target (until beans dry up later)?

 

[356]

Others might be able to answer better, but our ag beans get lots of pressure on the edges. At times they are only 4”-6” tall, and yet most have pods. I wouldn’t lose hope at this point. You may want to “surrender” a section of your plot and re-fence with better an area without the sages.

 

[Hoytvectrix]

We fenced several plots of beans the last few years. Last year we had a battery go out and one of the solar chargers and deer became less afraid of the fence. Once that happened most were just walking right through fences that were fully charged. I think if you run the fences long enough deer will lose fear of them.

This year we went a different route and have planted something similar to the summer blend that Grant woods plants. I'm not sure yet if we will go back to fencing beans or not.

Getting to canopy kind of depends on your planting density and row width. Once they get up above 12 inches or so they can typically outgrow the browse pressure, especially for plots bigger than an acre. We have an extremely high deer density and for unfenced beans, once they get up to a certain height they can typically stay ahead of the deer and still produce pods.

 

[356]

Here is a link to the article Convert Soybeans Into a Fall Food Plot in 1 Step (scroll to the end) by Ben Westfall following last week’s Deer Steward course. One of the field was in rough shape, and Craig Harper’s recommendation was broadcast over seeding. Here is a picture of that field, which I believe was three acres.

 

[4wanderingeyes]

My beans just flowered this past weekend. A little later, but it’s been so dry.

 

[T-Max]

My beans just flowered this past weekend. A little later, but it’s been so dry.

Same. I was hoping for them to be early so I could broadcast a brassica mix into them. I think I will still be fine since they didn’t canopy due to the lack of moisture.


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[FarmerDan]

Hard questions to answer with soybeans. Let's see if I can get this right. Seed pods form on nodes. Nodes are at the point where the leaf stem meets the stalk. Reduce the number of nodes and lose yield. If you still have a decent number of nodes after browsing there's a chance. Then there are determinant and indeterminate types. Indeterminants continue growing leaf, stem and node after flowering begins. Determinates stop. Seems to me indeterminates have a better chance on hard-browsed 'beans. Let's back up. Before flowering you will see buds forming or you should. I guess you are physically too far away to know. The other thing is precipitation. Dryness causes the plant to stop - everything - and wait. One of the advantages of soybeans over corn. The final factor is day length. The reduction in number of hours of daylight - or conversely - the increasing hours of night triggers reproduction, buds and then flowers. The final hurdle is remaining frost free days. I think 60 plus or minus is a good number and If you have that and have sufficient moisture with enough node left on the stem I think you have a chance.

But, too, it depends when you planted those beans and the days to maturity of what you planted.

 

[FarmerDan]

Also, do deer tend to browse on flowers and young pods or are the leaves what they target (until beans dry up later)?

Leaves. Some places deer won't eat pods unless they are desperate. Fencing? It's a lot to ask but one strand two feet inside of two strands around the outside will give you better protection - even without electrification. Tie some surveyor ribbon with long tails on sections and let it wave in the wind. Deer have poor depth perception and get confused...but there are some deer that didn't read that research.

 

[Binney59]

Ok

Leaves. Some places deer won't eat pods unless they are desperate. Fencing? It's a lot to ask but one strand two feet inside of two strands around the outside will give you better protection - even without electrification. Tie some surveyor ribbon with long tails on sections and let it wave in the wind. Deer have poor depth perception and get confused...but there are some deer that didn't read that research.

Thank you for both posts, lots of great info. I believe I should have pods as I have plenty of leaves and saw plenty of nodes near the leaf base. The tops of the plants have been browsed off but most appear to have survived and are getting close to where I think they should be able to keep up- especially if my brassicas fill in and take some pressure off.

I went with an electric fence with one single strand on the outside and two strands 3' in from there as that is what seems to be recommended the most. I could try changing that up next year but regardless, I feel as though next year will be better as I will get my fencing sorted out earlier and there will be more beans in the area next year.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Brokenbear]

Ok

Thank you for both posts, lots of great info. I believe I should have pods as I have plenty of leaves and saw plenty of nodes near the leaf base. The tops of the plants have been browsed off but most appear to have survived and are getting close to where I think they should be able to keep up- especially if my brassicas fill in and take some pressure off.

I went with an electric fence with one single strand on the outside and two strands 3' in from there as that is what seems to be recommended the most. I could try changingn that up next year but regardless, I feel as though next year will be better as I will get my fencing sorted out earlier and there will be more beans in the area next year.

Thanks for the help!

Same problem here but browsed down to 4" of stalk ..so up went the electric fence 5 years ago ..two strands of wire ..steel tee posts at any direction change and the results were encouraging ...but ... still some incursions but lighter ...as someone in this thread suggested ,,I had read marking poly tape improved the fence so that was added the following year and some additional decrease occurred ..then 3 years ago knee surgery at an inopportune time ( and previously twice rebuilt shoulders) I just could not roll up the steel fence wire ..so I balled up the wire as best I could with the intent to go to something I had read about that was lighter to handle but even more effective and that was the white poly and mesh wire electric fence tape ...1/2" wide
Your mileage may vary but but it was a game changer for us with markedly decreased browsing ..and we still tied on the white streamers that had improved the wire fence ..we also keep the tape flat no twists so the full 1/2" faces the deer
In the last 3 years since converting to tape we have never has a deer run through the fence ..it may happen tomorrow mind you but so far so good ..
Another thing that we added the year we added the tape ..we started leaving about 20% of the planted area fence free to give the deer the option to browse less desirable but still available munchies or risk the wrath of the fence
Last ..we are using a 26 mile rated solar fencer that goes way beyond a tickle to a butt stomping noggin kicker ..
We are using single fence 2 strands

Bear

Bear

 

[Wild Thing]

This 4' tall 2"X4" welded wire fence worked pretty good!



I have had pretty good success with 2 separate fences 3' apart.
I always use Poly Tape for the outside wire - about 24" high.
In some cases I have used Poly Tape for the top wire and Poly Wire for the bottom wire on the inside fence...


and in some cases I have used Poly Wire for both the top and bottom wires on the inside fence. The Poly Wire is easier to work with but the Poly Tape does provide more of a visual deterrent.




When the deer numbers are low to moderate I can get pods in a 3 1/2 acre plot - depends upon how many deer the neighboring farm shoots on summer crop damage permits.


If the deer numbers are higher, even 3 1/2 acres of beans aren't enough. In that case, I will just drill some cereal grains or a cover crop right through the stunted beans. It really doesn't hurt the beans any and you still have some additional forage - although no bean pods.



I have found that a hose caddy works well for storing the Poly Tape and an extension cord caddy works very well for storing the Poly Wire.

 

[Brokenbear]

This 4' tall 2"X4" welded wire fence worked pretty good!

View attachment 54840

I have had pretty good success with 2 separate fences 3' apart.
I always use Poly Tape for the outside wire - about 24" high.
In some cases I have used Poly Tape for the top wire and Poly Wire for the bottom wire on the inside fence...
View attachment 54835

and in some cases I have used Poly Wire for both the top and bottom wires on the inside fence. The Poly Wire is easier to work with but the Poly Tape does provide more of a visual deterrent.
View attachment 54836

View attachment 54837

When the deer numbers are low to moderate I can get pods in a 3 1/2 acre plot - depends upon how many deer the neighboring farm shoots on summer crop damage permits.
View attachment 54838

If the deer numbers are higher, even 3 1/2 acres of beans aren't enough. In that case, I will just drill some cereal grains or a cover crop right through the stunted beans. It really doesn't hurt the beans any and you still have some additional forage - although no bean pods.

View attachment 54841

I have found that a hose caddy works well for storing the Poly Tape and an extension cord caddy works very well for storing the Poly Wire.
View attachment 54839

Yes I like that hose/electric reel/caddy ..I'll just string a rope from roll bar to roll bar and set one of my grand sons out on the hood of my Rhino running the reel ..just like our nite time rabbit hunts ..whuppie !!! course I will have to figure out how we will "wool over" his mom ma ..danged coddled kids these day ..hey give me credit ..I did not teach him night time rabbit hunting with a shotgun ..that will be my daughter defense ...if caught ;-)

bear