Pull Behind Rotary Mower Question(s)!

[bigbendmarine]

Ok, QUICK bit of history... bought my place in 2013 and as part of the sale the owner left behind a 2007 John Deere 5425 tractor (81 engine hp, 65 hp pto) as well as a pull-behind MX10 rotary cutter with a cutting width of 126 inches. Both the tractor and cutter were operational but had seen some hard use. Fast forward to today and after hitting a few hog-rooted spots, knocking a few low stumps, etc, I'm looking at either repair #3 to the MX10 (think main drive shaft is slightly warped and one blade just got knocked off) OR am open to purchasing a new pull behind cutter.

So above shared, would GREATLY APPRECIATE thoughts on mower options/thoughts on whether MX10 is my best option or if there are better pull behind cutters to consider.

Here's the specific on my needs. Mainly will be using the pull behind to cut 30 acres of fields a few times a year. I don't love throwing away money on diesel, so really prefer just to cut in early spring and then a few times more in the growing season, usually avoiding fawn drop time between late May through mid-August, so grass and weeds can get pretty thick by that time. I will NOT be using the pull-behind to cut 4 acres of grass closest to house / use a zero-turn for that to have cleaner / nicer-looking turf cut. Here's a pic showing the property and acreage I'll be cutting.



NOT concerned with the fields looking pristine/ok with rough cut, and honestly would put ROBUST HEAVY build over cut quality.

ANY / ALL input from folks with ANY opinion on the matter / knowledgeable on alternatives, again be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[Telemark]

Would a new one not get damaged by the same obstacles? That would bum me out.

 

[TreeDaddy]

Not sure of answers to question, but your place looks great

Lots of funnels,inside corners,plots,orchards ,etc

bill

 

[Bassattackr]

Rotary mowers are a pretty saturated market. FWIW - For years my uncle used a 14' batwing to cut 30-40 acres with his 65 HP Deere w/ cab. I don't recall his brand of mower but there are quite a few good brands out there. Batwing handy for going thru gates, etc.

The warped drive shaft would definitely drive the price of the repair up there. Worth a call to your local Deere dealer (have model/serial in hand) to have them give you a budget replace it and the blade(s). Once you have that it will be a lot easier to evaluate vs a cost of a new mower.

 

[jsasker007]

I like the flail mowers for doing cutting/clearing because they are designed to encounter things that will put a rotary in the repair shop. Rocks,stumps,brush all get chopped to shreds with a flail. Flail cutters have some give to them so they pretty much bounce off of rocks or logs.I ran over a mattress spring i forgot was there and the noise was insane! Got the spring cut up and unwound and went back to cutting. It does a pretty clean looking job also. jmho.

 

[jsasker007]

Obviously what I said above can be ignored if you are only interested in a rotary.

 

[yoderjac]

Ok, QUICK bit of history... bought my place in 2013 and as part of the sale the owner left behind a 2007 John Deere 5425 tractor (81 engine hp, 65 hp pto) as well as a pull-behind MX10 rotary cutter with a cutting width of 126 inches. Both the tractor and cutter were operational but had seen some hard use. Fast forward to today and after hitting a few hog-rooted spots, knocking a few low stumps, etc, I'm looking at either repair #3 to the MX10 (think main drive shaft is slightly warped and one blade just got knocked off) OR am open to purchasing a new pull behind cutter.

So above shared, would GREATLY APPRECIATE thoughts on mower options/thoughts on whether MX10 is my best option or if there are better pull behind cutters to consider.

Here's the specific on my needs. Mainly will be using the pull behind to cut 30 acres of fields a few times a year. I don't love throwing away money on diesel, so really prefer just to cut in early spring and then a few times more in the growing season, usually avoiding fawn drop time between late May through mid-August, so grass and weeds can get pretty thick by that time. I will NOT be using the pull-behind to cut 4 acres of grass closest to house / use a zero-turn for that to have cleaner / nicer-looking turf cut. Here's a pic showing the property and acreage I'll be cutting.

View attachment 36253

NOT concerned with the fields looking pristine/ok with rough cut, and honestly would put ROBUST HEAVY build over cut quality.

ANY / ALL input from folks with ANY opinion on the matter / knowledgeable on alternatives, again be GREATLY appreciated!

Just a few things to consider. First, I think many wildlife managers are quick to mow. We as humans like it because 1) We feel like we are doing something and 2) We like the neat looking. While there are times when mowing is the best tool, I think it is generally over used. Consider other options like soil disturbance, or fire for sections. That may reduce the amount you mow and you may want to invest in other tools instead.

As for repair vs new, it is something we can't really answer. A lot depends on the specifics of the failure, cost of repair, your budget, and your tolerance for doing future repairs. I also can't to the MX10 specifically as I have never used one. I have a very old woods RM990 which is a little smaller than an MX10 and a 3pt vs tow behind. It is about all my 45 hp tractor can handle. It is sort of an in-between a bushhog and finish mower. I find it much more maneuverable than a tow-behind. I don't know if maneuverability is an issue for you.

Years ago, I did a lot of mowing with a JD tractor about that size with a tow-behind at Quantico MCB as a conservation volunteer. The mower was a batwing that was wider than the MX10. I found lots of things I could do with the batwing. Your land doesn't look like you would have any transport issue, but locking wings up for transport lets you get through tight areas. I found I could lift the batwing on one side part way up and trim back overhangs along trails. If you really plan to mow as frequently as you say, your tractor can probably handle more width than an MX10. That would save you time. The hp/foot rule assumes you are bushhogging stuff close to the capacity of the mower. So, if you are just mowing grass a couple times a year, you can probably cheat a bit.

Best of luck,

Jack

 

[buckdeer1]

I would hate to think what it would cost to replace that mower.I would price a new PTO shaft,in fact you can usually buy them at a farm store.Same with blade.Use a heavy duty 1/2 drive to break loose blade nut usually theres a access hole in top.

 

[j-bird]

I have a much smaller and lighter duty version (JD 513) rotary mower, but I just replaced the blades on mine and it cuts like new for like $75 in blades and tools (I didn't have a big enough socket or extension - you need 3/4" size stuff at least). I would certainly look into new blades and replacing the drive shaft before replacing the entire machine. Rotary mowers by design a intended to take a beating. And if you are mowing taller stuff...you never know what your going to find. I know mine is much smaller but I did post my blade change process on my land tour thread - not sure if it will apply to your machine or not...but it s there is anyone is interested.

 

[silver_yummies]

+1 on the flail mower! It is what I use to cut/mow 10 acres of CRP ground.

 

[SD51555]

If I was replacing, I'd 100% go the flail mower route. That's the missing link in perfecting throw and mow. That and a sickle mower are the best at laying material down evenly.

 

[bigbendmarine]

First, I think many wildlife managers are quick to mow. We as humans like it because 1) We feel like we are doing something and 2) We like the neat looking. While there are times when mowing is the best tool, I think it is generally over used. Consider other options like soil disturbance, or fire for sections. That may reduce the amount you mow and you may want to invest in other tools instead.

Yoderjac, as time goes by I'm definitely doing less mowing / mowing less total area AND mowing less often / trying to mow in a more strategic manner. In fact, I largely avoid mowing from late may through mid-august just to avoid fawn hits... BUT... on the "we like neat looking" note I must admit I DO WANT to mow at least a portion of the property due to our home being close to the middle of it, having a small pecan orchard (24 trees) in the "front yard" (actually south of the home), several oak, chestnut, pear, and crabapple orchards, as well as enjoying a clear view for spotting/photographing wildlife in the backyard that looks down towards our pond. Below is a pic of the view from our back porch and I spot deer and turkey crossing this area near daily.



Also find that keeping a bit of a perimeter mowed around our inside yard helps keep the mice and snake population down at the house. Wife doesn't like the occasional run-in with cottonmouths when walking around the house (can't say I blamer her), and I don't love finding wires chewed by mice nor the smell of mice nests in my truck's ac vent system. We have enough hawks, barred owls, great horned owls, coyotes, and bobcats hunting the rats and mice that maintaining a portion of low-cut perimeter around our inside yard sure seems to help keep the pest factor a bit more controlled than when due to time I've let things get really weedy right up to our inner yard.

Finally, with a love for clover at our place and a preference not to use chemicals when I can avoid it, I do use mowing to help keep grass and weeds at bay in spots where I have decent clover growth.

Not sure if the aerial picture I shared backs up my story, but if you look closely at it I think you can see I'm letting things get noticeably thicker in some areas (such as the perimeters of my food plots) while mowing others for viewing and photography purposes. Also worth noting, neighboring property is a rather thick/scrubby 4,000+ acre quail plantation so I appreciate the management of my 30 acres will have far less of an impact on the local herd than the management of the plantation, and to a degree one of my strategies has to been to focus on offering them things on my place that differ from the surrounding area which has a fair amount of cover, row crop plantings, etc. Don't take a word of offense at what you said, as appreciate it as sage advice, but instead just offer the above to frame the nature of my place as a homesite and one that sits next to a ton of plantation land cover.

 

[jsasker007]

You've got a nice place there.