Tyni, I'm not sure exactly what you mean by growth style. You can see many examples of my trees on the previous pages. They do grow in a columnar form. They will get some branches which tend to be upright. I did not prune that much to start with as I wanted scionwood to graft with. This winter, I'll prune everything back to a single leader this winter.
I do have opinions on how to best graft the columnar trees. I prefer T-budding over bench grafting with cleft or whip and tongue. I've not done chip budding but that might be your fastest route. The issue is that columnar growth is usually larger in diameter than the rootstock and buds are spaced very close together. For cleft or whip&tongue, you use a large number of buds on each graft, maybe 8 or 10. I tried some larger caliper rootstock last year and found it was very difficult to work. For cleft grafting, you had big wounds to heal. For W&T, I had trouble getting it cut and lined up right. I also don't think I get much growth in the first summer for my bench grafts.
For T-budding, I plant the rootstock in the spring, t-bud in August, and cut the stock off above the T-bud in early spring and the established roostock pushes the t-bud nicely all summer. By the end of the summer, I'll have a 20 to 30" tall tree I can transplant. I think my t-buds are almost as tall as my 2nd leaf bench grafts. From the same piece of wood, I can bud many more trees than I could bench graft. I still waste half the buds but it is a lot more efficient.
With chip budding, you take the dormant scionwood and cut out individual buds. You could put a couple chip buds on the dormant roostock and plant out. I've not tried this. It is tricky getting the right notch cut in the stock to fit the chip bud you cut off the scionwood. But it better utilizes the available buds and you don't need to match diameters of the stock and scion, just get the chip and notch cut so the cambium lines up.