Po boy foam marker for sprayers - Transferred from QDMA Forums

[yoderjac]

Yall probably already know about this one. Saves a good $900 off commercial versions. Even if it isn't quite as durable, it works just as well.
You need
1 portable gas tank
1 tubeless tire valve
1 cheapo 12v air compressor (I used this one <http://www.amazon.com/Slime-COMP03-1.../dp/B000ET9SAU
Some hose that fits over the nozzle of the gas tank, how much depends on the length of your boom.
foam marker concentrate+water
Drill a hole(small enough for the tire valve seal up, don't remember which size I used(INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED) ) in the bottom of the perfectly good portable gas tank.
Insert tire valve

Attach hose to nozzle of gas tank and run your hose to the end of the boom. On the new idiot spill proof gas cans, you will have to cut off the idiot proof part.

Attach el cheapo 12v air compressor. You can cut off the 12v plug and wire directly, or install a 12v outlet on your tractor if you do not have one already.

These compressors are cheap and do not last forever, I usually can get a couple years out the one on the lil' food plot sprayer if I remember to take the compressor off and put it inside when I finish.
I use a plastic shield on the bigger sprayer I use more often(~50 acres per week), usually get three months out of it.
Put in foam marker concentrate and water and go!

That looks easy enough. Do you have any action photos? How long does the tank last? Any sort of regulator on it?

This size(1.5gal) will run for over 30 minutes on a fill up(1 gal), 1-6 acres depending on the size and speed your sprayer(2.5 acres on this 10' boom at 3.5mph). 5 gallon tanks will run for over an hour easily. The tanks do better if not completely full, I usually fill to about 2/3 full. No sort of regulator, just blows into a open hose. Really not very much pressure needed at all. If I have a larger spot to do you can take a few jugs of water and foam concentrate premixed to the field.
I know its not a straight line, but you try to take pics while driving a tractor that old!(INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)

Art Work comes in may forms.
Very Nice(INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)

Slick idea. Who says American know how doesn't exist anymore?

Man that is great!!! I have never seen one like that! Thanks for sharing!!!

Great job, it's one of those ideas where you say, &quot;Why didn't I think of that?&quot;
But then I would have come up with the pet rock and mood ring. (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)

Very ingenius.....thanks for sharing!

First, let me thank hrcarver for a GREAT idea!
I gave it a go, some things worked out great, and others had issues. Here is what I found and how I handled it.
1) Sprayer Mounting: I've got a 55 gal FIMCO spreader. The best way I found for mounting was to use a single piece of angle iron mounted with bolts using the existing holes in the bottom rear side frame of the sprayer.

If you look at the bottom of the pic, you'll see how I put this single bar on the sprayer frame. Next, I took a J-bolt and a pair of nuts and mounted it on the angle iron support high enough for a gas can to hang from the handle.

The picture above a a little closer look. High enough above the J-bolt so the gas tank and easily be removed, I put another piece of angle iron. For this I actually just used aluminum. I used it to make a small lip to hold the compressor. Both the compressor and gas can are then just further secured with bungee cords.

You can see the lip for the compressor a little better from this angle.
2) Sealing Issue:
Unfortunately, you can't seem to easily find the old style gas cans. The new &quot;safety&quot; spouts are vented and even the threading is not very tight. Even after removing all the safety gear and doing everything I could I could not keep the foam from coming out from the spout and around it.
3) Foam duration issue:
The unit worked even with the leakage around the can spout, but the foam coming from the tube at the end of the boom was not persistent on the ground long enough to follow on my next pass through the field. This could be due to the amount of foam coming from the tube was reduced because of the leakage or perhaps it is the particular foam concentrate I purchased.
My solution for 2) and 3) was to get rid of the spout. I found that an 1 1/4 inch PVC connector fit fairly tightly over the threads of the can. I bought an 1 1/4 to threaded 1&quot;, a threaded 1&quot; to 1&quot; adapter, and a 1&quot; to 3/4&quot; reducer and use a small scrap of 1&quot; pipe to connect the adapter to the reducer. The 3/4&quot; threading is just right to go inside my clear tubing and is held in place with a simple hose clamp. I just remove the hose clamp and pop the tubing off to fill or empty the can.

You can see the PVC connections better from this angle. I used a file to take a little off the can threads and roughed up the inside of the 1 1/4&quot; PVC reducer before epoxying it to the can. I used enough 5 minute epoxy to fill in all the spaces between the threads in the can to form a tight seal.
I just finished the modifications today. I plan to test it out next weekend. Great idea and I hope my experience helps the next guy who tries it.
Thanks,
Jack

Not sure how I missed this thread, should probably copy it into the Resource section.
On seal on the gas can, I found that &quot;Marine Goop&quot; seals just about anything. Not sure where it was leaking, but if you gooped up the threads and all joints it should seal it. The pvc fix is good option as well. Over the past 5 years I can't count the # of times I forgot to take a gas can home to get needed gas. Which means a new gas can the next time back. I must have a dozen, most without the new push button spouts.
Seems this type of marker would only work for a boom sprayer that sprays down ? Mine sprays sideways 10ft on each side as well.

great ideas.....

Folks,
After making the modifications listed above, I used the foamer last weekend. I sprayed gly on my soybeans and then Arrow and crop oil on some clover fields. Finally, I went back a day later and sprayed some of the same clover fields with 24DB.
I have to say it worked beautifully! With the modifications on the spout, the foam came out at just the right amount. It was plenty persistent this time. In fact, it was still visible on the field after I was done spraying the entire field.
It really helps making sure the right amount of herbicide is applied.
Thanks,
Jack

 

[yoderjac]

Any thoughts on how you would set something like this up on a boomless sprayer.

I think you would need to add some kind of boom for the foamer tube. It doesn't really matter if the sprayer has a boom as long you know how far it sprays to the side and can rig the foam tube to end there. You loose the advantage of being able to operate a boomless sprayer in tight places.
I might consider using a piece of PVC pipe instead of flexible tubing since there is no boom. You probably want to make the pipe easy to remove so you could take it off and still use the boomless sprayer without it in tight places. A short length of flexible tubing between the gas can and the pipe should do the trick.
How you rig the pipe to your sprayer is highly sprayer dependent. You will probably need to rig up some kind of pointer on the opposite side of the sprayer so you know where the opposite side nozzles spray ends. A flexible fiberglass whip or dowel rod or just about anything the right length that is stiff enough should do the job.
I'm not sure you'll ever achieve the accuracy with a boomless sprayer that you can get with a sprayer with booms, but I would think it would be better than just guessing.
Thanks,
Jack

I would think for a boomless you would have the foam drop center of the tractor to show where you've been. If you stuck a boom for the foam it wouldn't be a boomless.

That is true. If you are good at estimating distance, you could figure out how far you need to drive between passes and just drop it at the center.

Quote:
==================================
Originally Posted by John C.
I would think for a boomless you would have the foam drop center of the tractor to show where you've been. If you stuck a boom for the foam it wouldn't be a boomless.
==================================
That is what we do for cluster nozzles in pasture or just reference the previous tire tracks.
With an ATV boomless where the spray pattern is directed downward and and to the side you'll probably need to drag the foam tube behind the spray pattern. Most boomless spray patterns get a lil thin toward the sides so a foot or so of overlap won't hurt. You can always make adjacent passes over a short distance at first so you can see the pattern before the herbicide dries and get a feel for the best pass width.
Boomless are nice but don't expect the precision of a boom. (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)

Finally built a po-boy foaming marker system. Used and old style 1.5 gal plastic can with the white spout which has a rubber gasket for good seal. Drilled a 1/2&quot; hole and installed a 0.453&quot; valve stem fitted with an air stone. Used a few feet of 3/4&quot; id hose from spout then to and past a 3/4&quot; gray t-fitting. Then reduced to 1/2&quot; tubing out to PVC 90's with drops and extensions at each end of boom.
The only real mod I made was to add an aquarium air stone to outlet side of valve stem. The fit is snug but I drilled through the valve and stone and installed a small cotter pin. The stone creates tons of bubbles making foam about the consistency of shaving cream. Pestmart has the stones....biOrb air stone...it is white and about 3/8&quot; o.d. x 2&quot; L....bar code = 22728 00024. Did very well in our initial test with a 4 oz of diswashing soap in 1 gal of water. Lil Blonde loved the 'bubble machine'! (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
The idea for the stone came from this boom and foamer thread on another site.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/b...er-w-foam.html

Yoderj, good idea about replacing the lid for a tight seal. Never leaked enough to really bother me, but it does leak.
Dgallow, could you try to explain the bubble stone more. I cant picture in my head how that works. Got a pic, or is it in the tank?

Thanks to Carver and others this is a great idea.
Here are some things I did . I wanted to be able to sit the tank in
my Polaris ranger bed and determined the tire fill valve was 1/4&quot;.
So I took some soft 1/4&quot; OD copper tube and inserted in old tank that already had a vent hole. Drilled hole to i/4&quot;
Slightly bent the tube so it temporarily pushed thru fill hole. I then squeezed end in middle with fence pliers. This made air come out more forcefully . I also drilled two side holes in the end with the smallest drill available . Re-bent and pushed tubing to bottom so it lays flat in bottom. Cut off at about 4&quot; too attach compressor connector.
The supply line is connected to a sink hole filler after drilling 1/2 hole in it.
Screwed and glued this to the original filler cap. It leaked some foam on the first attempt so I plastic epoxied it also.
So I solved my problem by making the air fill at top.
Heres some PICs to save some words.

Works great . Thanks to all the original contributors .

 

[yoderjac]

Quote:
==================================
Originally Posted by hrcarver
Yoderj, good idea about replacing the lid for a tight seal. Never leaked enough to really bother me, but it does leak.
Dgallow, could you try to explain the bubble stone more. I cant picture in my head how that works. Got a pic, or is it in the tank?
==================================
Yep its in tank but will try to explain.
Here are the biOrb air stones. <http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...:referralID=NA
I inserted the open beveled end of air stone into the big exit hole of a rubber valve stem (the fat part) which is normally on the inside of a rim. Fit was snug but didn't want it to pop out. So I drilled through the fat rubber and the air stone to insert a small cotter pin. After that was assembled, I slid a piece of straight wire between cotter pin hole and rubber to guide the whole thing through fill cap hole to the hole drilled in the bottom. Pulled stem through with pliers, removed wire and it was done. Air has to go through the stone when done this way and that is what produces the micro bubbles and dense foam.
Mine will leave nice foam blobs every 2-4' on both sides of spray pattern at 3-5 mph which is typical speed for atv spray rigs. You'll find that the air stone really boosts foam output and density provided there are no major leaks, compared to just the valve stem alone. I feel reducing the tubing from 3/4 to 1/2&quot; i.d. speeds up the rate foam blobs are dropped.
If I want to just run the foam on one side, then a tube clamp (large paper binder clip would work) can be used to close off the other tubing leg.

Might have to give that a shot. Thanks.

Excellent thread. Just in time for my spraying in a couple weeks!

First - great work with the marker system! I copied most of your method and it does a super job BUT - how did you all wire it into your e-system? I'm running a 4-wheeler sprayer and it runs off the 12V auxiliary outlet (cigarette lighter plug) so I just spliced my cheap tire compressor into the zip cord. Then I can turn the marker on/off at the compressor and the sprayer at the switch. Well, after a pretty short run of spraying/marking it seems that the switch overheated (like so hot it sizzled when I spit on it (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED) ) and the whole unit quit working. Switch was toast. So I assume that I'm running too much current through the switch. How did you all do it?
Thanks again.

On that old tractor I ran a hot wire straight from the tractor switch. Then I cut off the cigarette 12v plug on the compressor and put some male/female connectors on it. I just plug or unplug for on and off.
On my newer tractor they have 12v plugs built in. It has both the cigarette type 12v and plug in type for sprayer solenoid controls built in. I have it wired in with the sprayer control solenoids, when the main is on, the marker is too.

I had the same problem with the first toggle switches I put in. I think I got some higher amp switches at NAPA. O n the Polaris Ranger I came direct off battery [ fused] and installed two toggles that both feed two separate outdoor type
cigarette lighter receptacles [ wally world $6.00 ] . This allows cutting off/on the boom and foamer from different switches.
It has worked great so far. Good Luck

Thanks to the both of you! I figured it was too much juice for the switch to handle. I'm the hit of the ridge out here with my &quot;po boy&quot; marker. I can hardly believe how nice it works.
Now, to make yer millions, fabricate an aftermarket cruise control for 4 wheelers. It can be a real booger to try and hold at 4 or 5 mph using a thumb throttle.
Thanks again guys.

Since we are talking about switches, I pass on my experience. My power cable for the compressor is just threaded through the back window of the tractor and plugged into the cigarette lighter. However, one day early this spring when I tried to used it, the power cable had been cut through by being closed in the window too often. I just ran to TSC and bought a new compressor so I could get my weekend of spraying in, but I took the old compressor home to repair for a hot spare.
I didn't like having to plug it into the cigarette lighter and unplug it to turn it off and on. So, I simply stopped at the local Lowes and picked up a section of lamp cord and a rotary switch for a lamp and stopped at radio shack to pick up a cigarette lighter adapter.
Instead of plugging and unplugging it I can now just use the switch.

Did not have the time to wire it to the tractor. Grabbed a 12 V 7 amp hour sealed lead acid battery and used that instead. Don't know how many acres it will do on full charge, but at least 4 ac for sure. No issues with the switch. On the wheeler, the marker pump is wired with the sprayer pump direct to ATV battery. No issues there.

If i may make a suggestion, how would a CO2 cylinder work from your local welding suppy store? It sounds like these pumps are cheesy and would need to be replaced often, along with the electrical problems that can pop up. CO2 gas is cheap and you're not having wiring or electrical problems in the field. A CO2 cylinder can't stop working unless its empty, and the regulator shows how much you have before you start and after you finish.

Hmmm, maybe? Try it and let us know.

Quote:
==================================
Originally Posted by bigmike
If i may make a suggestion, how would a CO2 cylinder work from your local welding suppy store? It sounds like these pumps are cheesy and would need to be replaced often, along with the electrical problems that can pop up. CO2 gas is cheap and you're not having wiring or electrical problems in the field. A CO2 cylinder can't stop working unless its empty, and the regulator shows how much you have before you start and after you finish.
==================================
You may have some volume issues there. You would also have to find some way to regulate the output. I've been using the slime brand compressors. I've only had one pump fail and that is surprising since they probably were not intended to run for 4+ hours at a time while bouncing around on a tractor. My other failure was not with the compressor, but user error by cutting the cord with the window. I can't blame that on the compressor. I now have two in operations (one on my sprayer and one on my no-till drill) and one as a backup because I didn't have time to deal with the cut cord the day I was spraying.

Does the tire valve have to be in the bottom of the fuel tank?

Yes, so it bubbles air through the soap solution. A small connical shaped 'air-stone' used in aquariums can be pinned into the exit side of the valve for a 'micro-bubble' effect which produces a dense foam. Cheap dishwashing soap seems to work just as well as expensive foam concentrate....play with the concentration to get the foam you desire.

 

[yoderjac]

Thanks dgallow.

Made the same thing this summer. Instead of using a gas can, I used an old hand sprayer with the pump removed. Adapted the opening down to a quick connect, easy access to add additional solution, then piped it to a control manifold right next to me on the 4-wheeler. switch sides for foam markers by opening/closing two ball valves. also have the switch for the sprayer's pump right by the ball valves. We found that to get bigger blobs we are running two fish tank air compressors and made drop tubes with 3 inch coned openings covered with screen material. Works great.
Want to add electric solenoids to replace the current left/right boom shut off

...These compressors are cheap and do not last forever, I usually can get a couple years out the one on the lil' food plot sprayer if I remember to take the compressor off and put it inside when I finish.
Read an interesting alternative on one of the tractor forums. Guy got tired of replacing the cheap compressor and switched to a 12v aquarium motor - made to run forever and small. I googled and also just saw a 12v yard pond motor for $16 that might be a nice alternative.
I just completely redid a 200 gallon JD pull behind and am going to have to build one of theses foamers to upgrade my toy. Thanks Carver!

How are they plumbing in the aquarium bubbler?
OTT was lat Sat and auto pump had shot craps. Rahter than fight it we improvised and put an extendable paint pole on the front rack to 'sight' off wheel tracks from previous pass. Worked okay but skips probably happened.

Quote:
==================================
Originally Posted by dgallow
How are they plumbing in the aquarium bubbler?
OTT was lat Sat and auto pump had shot craps. Rahter than fight it we improvised and put an extendable paint pole on the front rack to 'sight' off wheel tracks from previous pass. Worked okay but skips probably happened.
==================================
Mine is connected to an air tube that enters where my wand used to be on my hand held spray tank.
As far as the stone, a 6 inch air stone worked better than a bubbler strip that I tried. The strip was around 18 inches in length. Make sure to weight down the stone with a couple heavy bolts affixed with zip ties.

Quote:
==================================
Originally Posted by dgallow
How are they plumbing in the aquarium bubbler?
OTT was lat Sat and auto pump had shot craps. Rahter than fight it we improvised and put an extendable paint pole on the front rack to 'sight' off wheel tracks from previous pass. Worked okay but skips probably happened.
==================================
Doug, I regoogled and couldn't find the original setup using an aquarium pump. They did have to use a 120/12 inverter. I'll check through links tonight, it was interesting so thought I saved it. Thanks

 

[yoderjac]

What about using a 30 lb disposable freon canister with a regulator to get the pressure down. 150 lbs. of air pressure regulated down to 2 or 3 lbs. would last a long time.

Quote:
==================================
Originally Posted by Thump1
Doug, I regoogled and couldn't find the original setup using an aquarium pump. They did have to use a 120/12 inverter. I'll check through links tonight, it was interesting so thought I saved it. Thanks
==================================
I had to use two air pumps to get enough volume to make good size bubble drops. Here are my air pumps and power supply one is rated at 100 Gal tank and the other is 50 gal tank.

Like I said earlier the best container I found to make a bubble chamber was an old hand held sprayer as seen here. It is designed to hold small amounts of pressure and the 4 gallon will last many hours.

Here is the rubber collar I put over the neck to move the bubbles (foam) out to my boom ends.

Here is how I adapted the clear aquarium line to my bubble chamber. The aquarium stone attached well to the old inner suction tube from the hand wand.

And to make larger clumps of bubbles for easier visibility and longer lasting reference marks, I added these cones on my drop tubes. There is screen over the ends to capture bubbles and make larger drops.

Thanks small plot and I like your set-up! How far apart does it drop bubbles with the cones?
We have 5/8&quot; or so drop tubes at the boom ends and it leaves a 'dotted line' on each pass. Foam lasts longer if we add some Dawn in addition to the 60:1 concentrate.
Went ahead last night and bought a Slime air pump at Orielys' for $11. Just rewired it to the SLA 12V 7Ah slave battery with a toggle taped to it on the hot side. The old pump lasted 2+ seasons. Soldered the connections as well. The 2 gal gas can spout needs a new seal so I'll go to a local plumbing shop today and have them make an O-ring. The SLA sits on the fender well between the hazard light and the roll bar and the foamer/pump goes on the back of the tanks above boom...no extra cord needed....just charge the battery ever so often. Easily enough foam for 4 ac which is the most we spray at one time.

Like the air pump idea. With my two small aquirium air pumps I am lacking on PSI for great bubble flow. Ran across the yard today and this is what I came up with.

While running at about 4 miles an hour I get this. Spaced out about 15 - 20 feet apart.

And here is the size of glob that I get with something for comparison.

If I could double my air flow I would get the same size globs about every 6 feet with a denser bubble which lasts longer. Globs are large enough that they sit on top of clover canopy where they can be seen and not drop through. The foam line is visible for 20 or so minutes, long enough to run back and refill between my small tank fills.

I had to use two air pumps to get enough volume to make good size bubble drops. Here are my air pumps and power supply one is rated at 100 Gal tank and the other is 50 gal tank.
Smallplot,
Thanks for sharing the great pics. Work has been a little intense (impinging on my qdma time) and I didn't have a chance to search more.
Yours look great and I'm gonna borrow the design. I wonder if upsizing to the yard aquarium/pond would provide a big enough motor. I may check that out this weekend.

Smallplot, any idea how these specs stack up to your aquarium motor capacity? Price is hard to beat and already 12v.
http://www.discount-pumps.biz/low_voltage_pumps.htm
FP55LV (12volts / 2 watts)
Low Voltage Submersible Fountain Pump
with Mini Integral Transformer
Reliable and quiet submersible water pump.
Easy water flow adjustment.
Suitable for fountains, ponds, aquariums.
GPH - 55
Max Head - 19.5&quot;
Volts - 12VAC
Watts - 2
Amps - .2
Size - 1-7/8&quot; x 1-3/4&quot; x 1-1/4&quot;
Cord - 6' / Outlet - 5/16&quot; ID Tube Size
Only 15.95

Quote:
==================================
Originally Posted by Thump1
Smallplot, any idea how these specs stack up to your aquarium motor capacity? Price is hard to beat and already 12v.
http://www.discount-pumps.biz/low_voltage_pumps.htm
FP55LV (12volts / 2 watts)
Low Voltage Submersible Fountain Pump
with Mini Integral Transformer
Reliable and quiet submersible water pump.
Easy water flow adjustment.
Suitable for fountains, ponds, aquariums.
GPH - 55
Max Head - 19.5&quot;
Volts - 12VAC
Watts - 2
Amps - .2
Size - 1-7/8&quot; x 1-3/4&quot; x 1-1/4&quot;
Cord - 6' / Outlet - 5/16&quot; ID Tube Size
Only 15.95
==================================
I would guess someone dropped a zero after the 12. It is probably intended to read 120VAC. I doubt it really operates on 12VAC.

Quote:
==================================
Originally Posted by Thump1
Smallplot, any idea how these specs stack up to your aquarium motor capacity? Price is hard to beat and already 12v.
http://www.discount-pumps.biz/low_voltage_pumps.htm
FP55LV (12volts / 2 watts)
Low Voltage Submersible Fountain Pump
with Mini Integral Transformer
Reliable and quiet submersible water pump.
Easy water flow adjustment.
Suitable for fountains, ponds, aquariums.
GPH - 55
Max Head - 19.5&quot;
Volts - 12VAC
Watts - 2
Amps - .2
Size - 1-7/8&quot; x 1-3/4&quot; x 1-1/4&quot;
Cord - 6' / Outlet - 5/16&quot; ID Tube Size
Only 15.95
==================================
This looks like a water pump for a fountain???? You need an air pump. When I was building this We went to a local aquarium store (3 trips) to keep adding. Found some pumps that were pricey and thinking about switching to a 12v compressor and putting a pressure regulator on it. I am limited on real estate on the ATV so the aquarium air pumps work, just not as good as I like.

Automobiles that have air supension use a 12v compressor. You could use a 12v to 120v inverter and use a compressor from an old refrigrator. There are lots of ways to get air pressure. I use a small compressor from a water fountain to pump up my tractor tires. It makes over 200psi.

 

[yoderjac]

Quote:
==================================
Originally Posted by Smallplot
Like the air pump idea. With my two small aquirium air pumps I am lacking on PSI for great bubble flow. Ran across the yard today and this is what I came up with.

While running at about 4 miles an hour I get this. Spaced out about 15 - 20 feet apart.

And here is the size of glob that I get with something for comparison.

If I could double my air flow I would get the same size globs about every 6 feet with a denser bubble which lasts longer. Globs are large enough that they sit on top of clover canopy where they can be seen and not drop through. The foam line is visible for 20 or so minutes, long enough to run back and refill between my small tank fills.
==================================
SP,
Interesting setup. I'm using 3/4&quot; ID tubing from my tank to the end of my boom with a 1&quot; elbow at the end. I get much smaller foam spots much closer together. I would guess that if you keep the same air volume and reduce your tubing diameter, you will be able to get your foam clumps closer together.
Thanks,
Jack

Quote:
==================================
Originally Posted by yoderj@cox.net
Interesting setup. I'm using 3/4&quot; ID tubing from my tank to the end of my boom with a 1&quot; elbow at the end. I get much smaller foam spots much closer together. I would guess that if you keep the same air volume and reduce your tubing diameter, you will be able to get your foam clumps closer together.
Thanks,
Jack
==================================
Yes Jack, You are correct. we added the end pieces to our 1 inch drop tubes after using it with just the drop tubes. With just the drop tubes it would leave a dotted line. Even tried adding a small section of 2 inch but still didn't get the result we were looking for. By adding the 4 inch bell (or 3 1/2 I really forget) that is pictured we got ok results but still pretty consistent with just the 1 inch drop tube really. When we added the nylon screen we got the result we were looking for. It would capture the foam and push it out the screen making bigger marks that would not drop under the canopy where marker was hard to see or hidden.
I should also mention I added side shutoff by pluming in PVC pipe making a manifold with 2 ball valves giving me the side to side on/off. This also lets me have full flow to which ever side is selected and not split between 2 sides. .
That dotted line had more drawbacks IMO than the larger more spaced out dots. One they were smaller and dissipated quicker. They also would be swallowed by the canopy when spraying. This way we have bigger easier to see marks that sit up on top of clover or what ever I am spraying. It is actually easier to follow the line this way believe it or not. Another benefit offered by the larger marks is less wind movement and being slung from the end of my booms. I am not getting any younger either!
I have 1 inch plumed in from beginning to end. The 1 inch helps keep my booms down where they are supposed to be. Even with bolts loosened the bracket was tight enough to not allow the booms to fall back down. With each bump they would raise higher and higher.
When we get a sprayer set up for the tractor I think we will purchase on of the kits where foam is made at the boom ends by a mixing chamber. We made a large scale one with steel wool and PVC hooked to air compressor at around 7 PSI would create lots of foam. Just not real cost effective trying to design one for the ATV.
Dan

Just wanted to say thanks to Mr. Carver for this post. My po boy foamer worked after some trial and error. I have an old sprayer with 40 foot booms. The original foamer was toast when I bought it.
A word of caution to those trying this. The tank can explode(INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
My old foamer had a 15 gallon fimco type tank and 65 feet of 1/2 inch lines for foam. Apparently 1/2 inch lines running that distance won't let release enough foam/air to keep up with the compressor and pressure builds.
I wish I had a video of the explosion. The original owner had RV antifreeze in the tank. For testing I didn't drain it I just added the foaming agent and fired it up. I was watching the foam slowly roll through the tubes when the BOOM happened. A mass of pink foam shot 25 feet in the air and landed all over me(INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
Now I have a 5 gallon gas jug and 3/4 inch lines....

Great thread fellas.
I could use one even whn I am running a weed wiper. Occassionaly I do about a 30 ac field, and with a 7 ft swath, searching for your tire tracks gets OLD, real quick. Even having the foamer to leave a trail down the center of the the atvs travel pattern, would be a huge benefit.
Anyone know what the output of the 12v compressor is, that ya'll have been using?
SMALLPLOT: Mind sharing who's BOOM you have on your atv? Is it a Fimco?

I was using the cheap slime compressors from my local TSC. The bouncing around kept causing the little motor to wear out. I'm now using this one: <http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...kup=SUPHV-40A2
I haven't used this compressor long enough to vouch for it yet.
Thanks,
Jack

Quote:
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Originally Posted by CaveCreek
SMALLPLOT: Mind sharing who's BOOM you have on your atv? Is it a Fimco?
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Not at all if I could remember who made it (INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED) . Don't think it was a Fimco but I may be wrong.
I have made several modifications to it. I will see if I can find out and let you know who it was made by for certain.

Quote:
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Originally Posted by Billb66
Just wanted to say thanks to Mr. Carver for this post. My po boy foamer worked after some trial and error. I have an old sprayer with 40 foot booms. The original foamer was toast when I bought it.
A word of caution to those trying this. <font size="4">The tank can explode</font>(INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
My old foamer had a 15 gallon fimco type tank and 65 feet of 1/2 inch lines for foam. Apparently 1/2 inch lines running that distance won't let release enough foam/air to keep up with the compressor and pressure builds.
I wish I had a video of the explosion. The original owner had RV antifreeze in the tank. For testing I didn't drain it I just added the foaming agent and fired it up. I was watching the foam slowly roll through the tubes when the BOOM happened. A mass of pink foam shot 25 feet in the air and landed all over me(INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)
Now I have a 5 gallon gas jug and 3/4 inch lines....
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Ummmm, you are welcome? Did it look like a snow storm in the summer?
I run a 1&quot; line, but did not think a half inch line would explode one. Had to be a blockage somewhere?
Anyway, I'm moving up to gps guidance soon.(INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED) Tired of messing with it, and apparently foam markers dangerous.(INTERNAL IMAGE LIKE EMOTICON REMOVED)

bump back to the front page.....
Also would this work to create enough foam to convert a 25 gallon tank into a marker?
http://shop.sportsmansguide.com/net/...9-001b2166c2c0

 

[yoderjac]

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[yoderjac]

Updated Picture Links

 

[yoderjac]

The spammers are back!

 

[cavey]

its ok, without them lol i would not have seen this post.... cool idea... glad it was brought back to the top

 

[Bill]

The spammers are back!

I knew something was off when I let that guy through. He’s gone now ;)

 

[yoderjac]

its ok, without them lol i would not have seen this post.... cool idea... glad it was brought back to the top

I personally intentionally avoid products that are spammed or gorilla marketed a lot. Sometimes, the companies that produce the products have no control as they are often used for click-bait, but many pay for this kind of marketing campaign. While it is not dispositive of a purchase decision for me, it definitely goes in the minus column for me.

Bill,

Thanks for deleting it!

Jack

 

[cavey]

I personally intentionally avoid products that are spammed or gorilla marketed a lot. Sometimes, the companies that produce the products have no control as they are often used for click-bait, but many pay for this kind of marketing campaign. While it is not dispositive of a purchase decision for me, it definitely goes in the minus column for me.

Bill,

Thanks for deleting it!

Jack

I was talking about the foam drip system, had not seen that before, pretty cool DIY idea - I agree I wont buy spammed products if you have to go to those lengths to sell your products there not worth looking at

 

[yoderjac]

I was talking about the foam drip system, had not seen that before, pretty cool DIY idea - I agree I wont buy spammed products if you have to go to those lengths to sell your products there not worth looking at

I've been using these for quite a while. They work great! I've made a few refinements to make them easier to fill but the concept is the same. I have one on my sprayer and one on my Kasco no-till versadrill.

 

[cavey]

I always overlap and waste chemical with my sprayer, so its a good low cost idea that I can easily do with just stuff I already have.