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New truck when to buy

My work truck (05" f350 diesel) has 580k miles on it currently. Most of which is pulling around 14,000 pound dump trailers of old shingles, skidsteer and other construction stuff. I bought that one used with 50k miles in 2009. Almost traded it in on a new one about 3 years ago and they offered me $500 less than I originally paid. Yes after adding about 400 thousand miles at that time. Just a little reminder of the deals that may likely come after this current economy possibly mimics what we experienced in 08/09. Granted if you're set on brand new, maybe need to hustle if lines stay shut down

Im anticipating buying alot of equipment and toys for cash deals in the next year. Can't lie, I loved the last horrible economy from a personal gain standpoint. Do feel terrible for older folks thou right now

Also, if you use milage for your deductions you'll benefit highly from a one ton truck. Can't remember exactly but I think it's another 20 cents a mile if over 8k pounds. For this reason all my guys who get company vehicles are in one ton vans with 10k pound license plates even though a half ton van with 6k pound license plates would be sufficient.
 
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Bill said:
not saying she’s wrong but check with your accountant. The feds have tax break for businesses needing a truck. I believe if it is over 5000 Lbs GVW you can write the whole truck off in one year. It must be purchased in the companies name. You can’t buy it and transfer it.

Again not sure of the exact IRS rule. But writing it off in one year is big. Worth a call to the accountant.
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I need to look into this. All the stars seem to be aligning for this tight wad to buy some new wheels:)
 
Same boat here. Looking at another Colorado to replace my ‘06. No financing on them right now and the prices suck, imo. I’m a patient mf’er though. Thinking there will be some good deals down the road.
 
I have been working for gm for the last 17 years in sales, try and narrow down what type of truck your looking for model and option wise then look online for the best deal, don’t look in smaller towns because they can’t compete with the larger stores etc. once you find the few cheapest deals at say 2 or 3 stores then you could try and negotiate off that price but typically there will be $500-1500 of movement. Only other factor would be trade value if your talking apples to apples on a brand new truck msrp for msrp etc. only number that matters at the end of the day is the trade difference/bottom line. Doesn’t matter how you get there it’s that you get there. Most every one price store in the Minnesota/Wisconsin/Iowa area will be higher and it’s not your one price/best price etc. the profit the stores make is on total volume sales based per month and bonus checks are then cut back to dealers from the manufacturers if goals are met etc. I’d be happy to help further but it’s funny to read all these posts and all the strategies, it most of the time doesn’t have to be this difficult but people make it. That being said I last week made a big change and quit the automotive sales and changed to heavy equipment working for bobcat!


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Look up the big online dealers for gmc look up Laura Buick in Collinsville IL Denny Dennison for dodge should get you a good starting point and frame of reference. When I was checking around these dealerships were selling them significantly cheaper than the local dealership invoice prices.


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Booner21 said:
Look up the big online dealers for gmc look up Laura Buick in Collinsville IL Denny Dennison for dodge should get you a good starting point and frame of reference. When I was checking around these dealerships were selling them significantly cheaper than the local dealership invoice prices.


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Invoice less rebates wouldn’t be someone’s best deal, behind invoice amount is a figure called holdback, it’s dealers profit but most aggressive dealers give that up or the next store 5 miles in any direction will and boom you just lost a sale for $50 difference, you need to take pricing vehicles throughout the country with a grain of salt because not all rebates will be good etc it will be based on your current zip code where the vehicle is titled.


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Doesn't holdback to dealer get reduced on a monthly basis as an incentive to dealer to push slow moving stock?
 
I am not certain about todays market with what is going on in the world now. But the best deals are usually to be had about 2-3 months after this year models are released, and you are in the market for last years models, and you are open to different options. I bought my last truck for $20k off sticker with all the rebates, and incentives offered for last years models, it was actually less then sticker.
 
I don’t know if this is going to apply everywhere but car dealerships are forced to close today here. Maybe they can still negotiate over the phone or online. Actually getting one though may be problematic at this time. Who knows.
 
OakSeeds said:
Doesn't holdback to dealer get reduced on a monthly basis as an incentive to dealer to push slow moving stock?
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No not as far as I know, the hold back amount is listed on the invoice and it’s up to the sales manager to keep or let go how much they want to on each deal but most of it’s given back to have the cheapest price etc




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Adittmer said:
it most of the time doesn’t have to be this difficult but people make it.
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if you sold GMC’s for 17 years, I have a question. Ever sell one at MSRP or slightly below? :)
 
Adittmer said:
Booner21 said:
Look up the big online dealers for gmc look up Laura Buick in Collinsville IL Denny Dennison for dodge should get you a good starting point and frame of reference. When I was checking around these dealerships were selling them significantly cheaper than the local dealership invoice prices.


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Click to expand...

Invoice less rebates wouldn’t be someone’s best deal, behind invoice amount is a figure called holdback, it’s dealers profit but most aggressive dealers give that up or the next store 5 miles in any direction will and boom you just lost a sale for $50 difference, you need to take pricing vehicles throughout the country with a grain of salt because not all rebates will be good etc it will be based on your current zip code where the vehicle is titled.


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I am saying both of these dealers were several K cheaper than the local dealer that I was quoted invoice minus rebates at. I ended up buying from one of them and there wasnt any gimmick or add on fees outside of what is listed online.


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I'll ad this, take as you wish
I used to buy a new truck every 2-3 yrs for 30 yrs or so
I never waited till I needed anew truck to buy, and before buying I would shop about
I always had my options list on what I wanted, and would go from dealer to dealer asking for a price on exact same truck, and I am 100% up front about things, I start off telling them I will be buying in "X" time frame, and plan to visit several dealers, and WHO ever gives me the best price UP FRONT< gets my money!
I am NOT looking to waste my time playing games of back and forth , anyone one that is CLOSE tothe best price gets a second chance to beat MY best price, if they don';t, I buy where my best deal is!

and I would get prices that would vary up to about 15 grand different from one dealer to another on EXACT same truck, color , options and so on!
only difference is dealership!, again, I have done this since the 80's!

and I found it amazing how many dealers WON"T Budget on prices and some will give in a LOT.

an example here will be, my last truck, I went to 15 different dealers ALL with them going to ORDER me a truck, as NO one had any built with what I wanted
so was 100% a build truck so exact same options and all on the truck I was wanting!

my closest dealers to me were the highest, I ended up buying out of state, they delivered to my door all paperwork and taxes done and said, and they beat my BEST price from ANY other dealer in my HOME state by 12 grand, and that included a trade in, thru a picture and description over the phone on it!

SO< IMO, WHERE you buy makes a HUGE difference and like everything else these days, you have to shop around to get the best deal/price!
it is time consuming to visit as many dealers, but I had the time to kill and it saved me several grand on every buy, so was worth it to me!


and to be honest, 99% of all my trucks I have bought have NEVER been at the same dealer, I always go back to the last dealer and give them a chance to give me the best price, but sadly, so far, its never worked out that way!

SO< its not like its ONE dealer that always beats the rest
IMO< it comes down to what dealer Need's to make a sale and or has bills a coming!
better to sell something at less profit and make it up on th next guy , as not many make the effort to do what I have done , I know I ask friends/family/customers,
and they always tell me they don't, and most DON"T believe the deals I have gotten on my trucks! and I am NOT bragging here, just saying, like most things, you get back what you put in and I put time into shopping for a deal on trucks!


so my advice, is shop around, KNOW what you want, and what you DON"T in a truck, and know the prices before you get to the dealer, easy to do, look online, and figure what ever price you find on line, has a bunch of wiggle room!
dealers have more rebates than they can shake a stick at they will never tell you about, and some of the shady one's will apply them to deal and never tell you and pocket the $$
I know a few dealers busted for doing this, so its not a myth!

as a dealership owner I was close friends with told me, NO matter HOW great a deal you THINK you got, WE made money off you!!
and this I will always belive!
 
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