May have buried my seeds!

Victor Van Meter

5 year old buck +
Well, put in a mix of brassicas, oats and peas (local co-op mix) and after 5 days, some of it is coming up and some is barren. I think when I was dragging it I ran over a few places too many times as I was trying to make the turns and possibly buried the seeds. How long should I wait to see germination before quickly putting out more seed to try and get something up before season? Thanks for the help.
 
I'd give it another week for sure. Have you had any rain?
 
Like was mentioned when you got rain is key. Give it 10 to 14 days AFTER you got a good rain to see. You mention brassica and peas. Peas are a lot larger than turnips and as such where you can run into problems at times. IF you can, get them each in their own bags next time. Plant the larger seed first so you can work it into the soil good and then just broadcast the smaller seed on top and pack. It takes a few more passes, but you tend to get better results. spread some winter wheat or rye on the bare spots and it will be fine. Also keep in mind larger seed is easier for the birds to find as well. I have turnips sprouted and doing well and I just killed the existing vegetation, spread the seed and walked away.
 
It rained that evening and another day, so water shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for the advice on the mix. I assumed that may cause a problem.
I have 50lbs of WR, so if I don't see any results I will spread it out and hope for another rain.
 
It rained that evening and another day, so water shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for the advice on the mix. I assumed that may cause a problem.
I have 50lbs of WR, so if I don't see any results I will spread it out and hope for another rain.
Rye will grow on concrete so you won't have any worry about it growing as long as the birds leave it alone. I wouldn't worry much unless you don't see anything by this coming weekend.
 
Tillage has lots of possible issues. I would simply surface broadcast the WR with a rain in the forecast. Don't drag or disrupt the soil again. The WR will germinate and give you a plot. If any of the other seed is in the germination zone, it will germinate as well. The WR won't hurt it.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Thanks for the replies.
 
If you have gotten rain and some seed is coming up and some is barren, you have buried the seed too deep with the drag or more than likey dragged the seed to one spot leaving some areas without seed. Not sure how you seeded but the oats and peas should have been seeded first and cultipacked. Then sow the tiny brassica seed, after pressing the bigger seed in the ground, and cultipacking the brassicas in. I'm not a fan of big and small seed mixes. More often then not, tiny seed in the mix will get buried too deep. As stated, sow the WR without disturbing the soil. It will grow just fine.
 
I'm not a fan of big and small seed mixes.

And therein lies the problem with many BOB mixes

bill
 
Do you have turkeys? They can lay a whoopin on shallow seeds in little time.

Another reason to not get premixed seeds of different sizes is, during spreading the seed, the smaller seed makes it to the bottom, and the larger seed stays on top, so it usually isn’t spread very evenly.
 
next time, ditch the osats as they would be gone at first frost, and swap in winter rye. I always keep about 40 lbs of seed around of emergency rations, seed that I can get out in a hurry if something fails or gets washed out. My go to in the situation is purple top turnips, crimson clover, and winter rye. one of those three will get results fast and in as little as three weeks be available to be fed on by deer. I might be putting some of that down this afternoon as I did get a bad gully washer rain after seeding two plots and are now a bit leaner on desireable items than I care to admit. Another key to helping you and your situation is knowing where you are, so we can judge what could be an option, or not. try to get into your profile and put a location in a signature line.
 
Bob mixes have their niche, but often have much bigger problems. Some of it boils down to matching the with planting techniques and methods. I don't use BOB mixes but that is largely driven by the huge cost differential when you are working at scale. I mix my own. Yes, there are times when I really want a very even seed distribution on a small field. In that case, I broadcast the seed by hand from a chest mount (solo) spreader where I can control the amount with fine granularity. Because walk and crank speeds vary, I always set it low, make a first pass, and then open it more and make a second. I broadcast each seed component individually. It takes a lot of time and is only practical for tiny fields.

When I planting larger fields (1 acre plus), I don't have the time or energy to do this. For mixes, I use a broadcast spreader behind my tractor. Most mixes I use have a cereal grain (usually WR) component. It acts as a carrier for small seed like clover or brassica. The settings on a tractor mount broadcast spreader are usually too coarse for low rates of small seed. Here is how I mix:

My broadcast spreader will handle around 100+ lbs of WR easily. I first measure out the small seed for the field and put it in a bucket. I will then put 1/2 a bag of WR into the broadcast spreader and I'll put about 1/4 of the bucket of small seed on top. I'll then add the rest of the bag of WR and follow it with the next 1/4 of the bucket of small seed. I'll then use my arms to reach in and mix that seed well. Don't mix too much or as 4Wandering says, the small seed will go to the bottom. I then add another 1/2 bag of WR, the next 1/4 bucket of small seed, the rest of the WR, and the rest of the small seed. I then reach in and mix that top half of seed.

I set the opening to give me under broadcast 100 lbs/ac of winter rye. It took me a couple tries when I first started to get this setting based on tractor speed. This lets me make one pass and have some leftover seed. I then just run randomly across the field to spread what is left in the spreader. A broadcast spreader has an agitator. If you spread seed at too low of a rate (opening too small or tractor too slow), the agitator operates much more over an acre. This over-agitation can cause small seed to go to the bottom. However with the tractor moving faster and the opening wider, there really isn't time for this to happen.

In most cases, I'm happy with the results of this technique and it saves a lot of time. The key is to start with the seed well mixed and use a high rate cereal component a the carrier.

Most of the seeds we plant for fall don't require depth. They can be surface broadcast just fine as long as they get good seed/soil contact and rain. This is much better for your soil than traditional tillage and dragging to cover. If any of your seed is planted to deep you have tilled much deeper than needed. At most, we need only to scratch the surface a bit for most fall seed.

Google "Ray the soil guy" and watch some of his videos regarding the impact tillage has on soil health and then read some of Crimson and Camo's throw and mow threads for techniques for small equipment plotters. Minimize tillage. Most fall seed does not need to be covered. if you are going to till to scratch the surface, broadcast the seed first and then lightly till (top inch or less). This will give the seed sufficient seed soil contact. Broadcasting through a standing crop and then mowing it requires no tillage. The seed falls to the bare ground under the standing crop (with good initial weed control) and then the crop is mowed to form a mulch on top of the seed. For some crops like soybeans, you can leave them standing. If you get the timing right, you broadcast seed as the leaves yellow and it falls to the ground. The leaves then fall forming the mulch and you have a fall cover crop growing under the standing bean stalks with pods attached. The best of all worlds as the dying beans release N for the fall crop.

You can't throw and mow through things that form turf like fescue, but it is a great technique that promotes soil health and nutrient cycling.

Many large seeded warm season annuals (beans, corn, sunflowers, etc.) that are planted in the spring are a different story . They don't surface broadcast well. They do need some amount of depth to germinate. The best option for these is a no-till drill. It preserves soil health while providing sufficient planting depth.

As for seed predation, we have great turkey populations and I have not found that to be an issue when sufficient much is present after mowing in the fall. Turkey move as the feed and while they will eat some of the larger seed, you can easily compensate for this by upping the seeding rate for WR in the mix. Most of the smaller seed is not an issue with this technique. I have had turkey dig up drilled soybeans in the spring but again, when working at scale, it is not enough to impact my results significantly. The biggest seed predation issue I've seen is when trying to frost seed on top of snow. In the winter small birds are short on food sources and clover seed sitting highly visible on snow can be predated.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I am going to check it out this afternoon and see what is what. If they are still bare, I will stop and get a few more pounds of turnips and throw that and the WR out Thursday evening as it is calling for rain again.
Thanks for the info guys.
 
I disagree with ditching the oats. While I do agree they will die off after a "HARD" frost, they are a much better draw then winter rye, and winter wheat, at least in my area. But it works great as an early attractant, for early bow season, and to get the deer coming to the food plot.
 
I disagree with ditching the oats. While I do agree they will die off after a "HARD" frost, they are a much better draw then winter rye, and winter wheat, at least in my area. But it works great as an early attractant, for early bow season, and to get the deer coming to the food plot.

So far, the deer in my area don't seem to care for either one. I would not have planted oats on their own, but they were part of the mix. I planted oats the last few years and the deer don't seem to care for them. As for the rye, what I have put out so far is being ignored. Maybe they have other food sources and will hit the rye later, but so far they aren't much of a draw.
 
I disagree with ditching the oats. While I do agree they will die off after a "HARD" frost, they are a much better draw then winter rye, and winter wheat, at least in my area. But it works great as an early attractant, for early bow season, and to get the deer coming to the food plot.

It is regional. In my situation, cereal is cereal to deer. There are different peak times between the cereal grains but overall, age is more of a factor than the type of cereal grain as far as attraction goes. I have seen folks in other areas like you report a preference for one cereal grain over another.
 
I know our locations are really different but I don't expect a whole lot of activity on my cereal grain plots early on. I'll get some feeding from resident deer but for the most part the cereal grains are a late season draw for me. As winter sets in and food sources become scarce....that's when they really concentrate on my plots hard.
 
So far, the deer in my area don't seem to care for either one. I would not have planted oats on their own, but they were part of the mix. I planted oats the last few years and the deer don't seem to care for them. As for the rye, what I have put out so far is being ignored. Maybe they have other food sources and will hit the rye later, but so far they aren't much of a draw.

In my area, deer are now on the early acorn drop. They will stay on that and ignore my plots for the most part as long as acorns are available. In poor mast crop years, they will hit my fields much more in October. I'm only part way through my fall plant. The later I plant cereal, the longer into the season it stays attractive.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I would never plant oats alone in the fall, only as a mixture. I usually mix it with winter rye, or winter wheat. Pretty much everyone of my plots get winter rye in the fall, unless I am planing on an early spring planting. This year I have one plot that I want to switch to clover, so I planted winter wheat and clover this fall. All of my other plots got winter rye spread over the plot. I have in the past planted winter rye and clover together and had great results, but my plan was to plant clover this fall, and go back and frost seed clover again in the spring. The winter wheat will allow the sun to get the younger seed in the spring, then the winter rye. At least that was my reasoning.
 
I would never plant oats alone in the fall, only as a mixture. I usually mix it with winter rye, or winter wheat. Pretty much everyone of my plots get winter rye in the fall, unless I am planing on an early spring planting. This year I have one plot that I want to switch to clover, so I planted winter wheat and clover this fall. All of my other plots got winter rye spread over the plot. I have in the past planted winter rye and clover together and had great results, but my plan was to plant clover this fall, and go back and frost seed clover again in the spring. The winter wheat will allow the sun to get the younger seed in the spring, then the winter rye. At least that was my reasoning.

True, but it will also allow the sun to get to the weeds. You can use WW as a nurse crop for clover and many do. I find WR a better choice if weeds are an issue, but if not, WW would do just fine.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Top