Macintosh Problems

buckvelvet

5 year old buck +
So this tree is on M106, My parents planted it probably 6- years ago, i have to train it now that I'm learning. I have to get some electric conduit and some ag lock to train it upright. However, what the heck do I do about this other growth at the bottom. I dug it out to check it and its right under the ground connected to the trunk of the tree. Do I dig out that spot and whack with a saw, but being so close to ground level will it be prone to insect/disease? How do I possibly seal it? Perhaps this is a shoot from the rootstock? Thoughts?

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I would cut the mac off, and let the sucker grow, then regraft a good variety on the branches, like Liberty or freedom.

Something is severely wrong with the mac, disease perhaps, maybe very poor soil. That tree should be 3-4" in dia by year 6, 12-16' tall.
 
Thats what I thought Ben, I don't know how to break it to them. I don't like the rootstock at all. i'd much rather dig the thing up and plant something else.
 
Thats your best bet. Yank that one, go about 6' away, prep the soil right, with compost, and plant a nice tree on B118


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How bout G30 so they maybe can reach a fruit? Haha!


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Sure, G30 is a good choice for a medium size tree. They require a strong support system and require thinning with some of the heavy fruiting varieties.
 
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These B118 are 12 years old, and still have plenty of fruit in reach


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You must have pruned it to be that low to the ground?
 
Not really, I just let low branches set fruit.


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Maybe its the angle? Seems really small for a 12 year old B118? I'm not speaking from experience as I have no trees that old at all I just presumed B118 much larger and taller by that time.
 
I have fruited them very heavily to offset growth.


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Oh ok, ya'll know way more than I do about that kind of stuff, thanks for answering Ben.
 
Ben - I'm growing 60 apples and crabs at my hunting camp for deer and our members to eat some. All are on Antonovka, B-118, and MM-111. I want to get the trees as big as possible because we have bears around. We need lots of wood to take an occasional bear climbing the trees. From your answer on post #11, should I not let them fruit at all, or only let a couple apples form to allow the trees to get maximum growth / wood ?? I'm only into this apple growing thing 4 years now. We need trees at least 15 ft. tall - and preferably 18 to 22 ft. We wrap screen for rodents, and cage with 5 ft. tall concrete mesh staked heavily for deer / bear protection.
 
Ben - I'm growing 60 apples and crabs at my hunting camp for deer and our members to eat some. All are on Antonovka, B-118, and MM-111. I want to get the trees as big as possible because we have bears around. We need lots of wood to take an occasional bear climbing the trees. From your answer on post #11, should I not let them fruit at all, or only let a couple apples form to allow the trees to get maximum growth / wood ?? I'm only into this apple growing thing 4 years now. We need trees at least 15 ft. tall - and preferably 18 to 22 ft. We wrap screen for rodents, and cage with 5 ft. tall concrete mesh staked heavily for deer / bear protection.
Correct, for m111 and Ant roots, it should not be a problem. For B-118, you may have to defruit. Variety has a big part in early fruiting. Liberty will fruit quickly on ant rootstock, where northern spy will give you an apple your second year in the nursing home.
 
Thanks, Ben. I don't know which varieties are precocious - so should I just remove the fruit for a few years, especially the B-118's ?? What would happen if I leave an apple on an MM-111 or Antonovka just to sample ??
 
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