This is an incredible response thank you so much for this information. I am located in the Hudson Valley. Most of the rootstock i have experimented with is M.111 and Scion I collect from an apple tree I have on my property not really sure the type. I am debating buying a man apple tree that I can just use for scions for years to come.What you graft up already?
Lots of good apples / crabapples out there. Some hold on too well. We have a scion exchange tthread that usually starts begining of the year. Besides scion, you can buy a tree online and trim it a bit for a few scions. Bought galarina and sundance last spring and grafted a few to some m111's. They took well. Got 3 sundances from 1 sundance bareroot. Grafting is fun, but you get a year or two ahead of the game with bareroot trees. Worth the price in my opinion.
no experience with mature galarina, but they hold well onto the tree. I planted three and have a 4th one in a grow pot to put on hunting land a half hour east of utica.
Ny has a pretty wide range of zones. Also, the usda zone were redone this year. Adirondacks get the polar vortexes every few years. On average its a zone 4 place where my clubs camp is. But, it still get's -30 or worse up there. Even worse was last year -38 deg night with 3 inches of snow cover or so. Saint Lawrence nursery or fedco sell trees for zone 3 or zone 2. I mover by stillwater reservoir north of old forge.
Saint Lawrence has all winter hangover, inter wildlife, and violi's hanging crab. They recently added a big deer crab. I ordered from them this year all those varieties.
whitetail crabs has 30-06 that isn't bad. They also have droptine, but it gets cedar apple rust bad. Which is the biggest tree problem in NY mostly. Enterprise isn't bad. Redfield can be good. Yates isn't bad.
There's tons of other carbapples that hold well into the winter too. Turning pont, coutrhouse crab, big dog. Hear ome opinions before you take a dive into the tree. I tend to prefer more well known varieties. disease resistance is known and more importantly bloom times. Seems to be a hassle for me because I live right by the hudson river. The soil warms up a bit faster by the river, but the wind can blow a wrench into your spring tree plans. I try to keep only bloom group 3 and 4 varieites. Extended bloom times is another trait to look for too.
IF you don't get what you need, 39th parallel nursery has decent prices and selection on scion.
Didnt get the scion you wanted, just plant the rootstock and graft next year or next 2 or 3 years and topwork. Although suspectible to cedatr apple rust, M111 rootstock is basically northern spy. I am planting a failed graft on a m111 this fall and seeing what happens. Cedar apple rust is really bad by me and I am near several orchards and their pests, but will grow the m111 to maturity to see drop times and bloom times.
I am grafting onto 10 siberian crabapple rootstock from saint lawrence nursery. I am planting 2 or 3 seedlings and letting them become mature trees on their own and see what happens.
Ask people you know who hunt if there's feral trees in the area that are good to graft. Thought I had a good one, but it's biennnial though.
Turkey creek in kansas has alot of varieties mentioned above.
That drop time chart is really helpfulI tend to use Bluehill Nursery for my fruit trees. They have a handy little drop time chart that's a great to ponder over.
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As we all know diversity is very important when planting for deer and growing fruit trees for whitetails is no different.bluehillwildlifenursery.com
It is. I've planned my apple purchases from him to drop from september into january so there are constantly apples dropping at my place. Probably have to adjust it for the northern growing zones. My place is 1/2 hour from blue hill though so it works out perfectly. Now I just need my apple trees to get a few years on them.That drop time chart is really helpful
I don't have enough experience with my TPs to give a thorough review, I planted them 2 years ago. I was very surprised at how long it takes them to leaf out though. It's around 2-4 weeks after all of my other apples. I'm not sure if that correlates with drop times or not. They have grown well and have put on a lot of growth in 2 years as poor as my sandy soil is.Forum member Chainsaw (Dave) who passed away owned 600 acres in New York that is mostly covered with wild apple trees. I used to communicate with him a lot, and he sent me scions from some of his trees. While he had many outstanding apple trees, the one that stood out to him above all others was Turning Point. It made incredible crops for him. The drop time started in mid October and extended past the end of December into the next year.
I have a young one planted down here and have no idea how it will do this far south, but if I lived in NY I definitely would want several of those. Another one that came from his place is Sweet November. My young tree had about 4 of those apples this year, and they looked great.
That is definitely good for late frosts. Oddly enough, some of the real early apples are late to leaf out too. Pristine seems to be one of those.I don't have enough experience with my TPs to give a thorough review, I planted them 2 years ago. I was very surprised at how long it takes them to leaf out though. It's around 2-4 weeks after all of my other apples. I'm not sure if that correlates with drop times or not. They have grown well and have put on a lot of growth in 2 years as poor as my sandy soil is.
I really appreciate that!! Much better than waisting money on scions and shipping from these nurseries!!Lots of good suggestions. I have several Turning Points but none have fruited yet, a few should next year. Winter Wildlife, All Winter Hangover, Bluehill Prime Time, Roadhill crab and Ed’s Crazy Crab are some that I have that I expect to be good late season but can’t report on how well they hold yet. My Prime Times got their first apples this year and are holding well so far and look good.
I have a few Wicksons that I am impressed with, they hold really well into November and December here in Western NY. I also have Franklin Cider and Goldrush that really hold into late season, almost too well. I have them holding into January with lots never dropping and shriveling on the tree.
You are welcome to scions from anything I have, just remind me around January sometime.
If you didn't know, Blue Hill isn't that far of a ride from you. You can pick up trees, and they won't be trimmed for shipping.That drop time chart is really helpful
A word of caution:I tend to use Bluehill Nursery for my fruit trees. They have a handy little drop time chart that's a great to ponder over.
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As we all know diversity is very important when planting for deer and growing fruit trees for whitetails is no different.bluehillwildlifenursery.com
That's interesting. What do you think causes it? Elevation? Terrain?The drop time chart is great. What I have learned is that in my location you typically have to adjust the times by about 5 to 6 weeks earlier for apples and pears. That is probably true for persimmons and less likely to be true for chestnuts.