Kerr crabs

[b116757]

Zone 3 and below I suggest burying the graft to prevent graft failure do to extreme cold. My old orchard at my brothers suffered from several graft failures in zone 3 and St Lawrence nursery also suggests burying the graft page 12 of their planting instructions.

 

[keets]

I read that here recently and was a bit surprised, as all other directions tell you to keep it 2" out of the ground

 

[keets]

If anyone else has any suggestion for me, please speak up ....sounds like I want M-111 roots, October drop times

 

[Teeder]

I've planted all my apple and pears with the graft below the surface. They seem to be doing well.

 

[b116757]

I have about 90 fruit trees with the graft buried.

 

[keets]

now I won't panic if I get the mulch too high I guess, interesting on all the conflicting info on that

 

[b116757]

For most folks they don’t wish to defeat the rootstock characteristics. The far north has issues with graft failure from extreme cold and in wildlife plantings in general many of us want self rooted vigorous trees that very well may live 100 years where as grafted trees typically don’t live that long and the more dwarfed the tree the shorter its lifespan. I knew when I did it it might cause me to wait longer on some of the trees to fruit but that was fine with me.

 

[MW22392]

Thoughts on persimmon graft failure? I’m 45/45 with my apples and pears but 1/15 with persimmon. Most have sprouted back from the root stock though. USDA zone 6a however we are at a very high elevation. Pretty sure its the cold as I’ve had some going into 3rd growing season not make it through the winter, any tips? Current plan is to just let the root stocks grow and try to regraft later when the plants are more established.

 

[b116757]

I haven’t graft persimmon but they leaf out quite late are you doing it to early?

 

[MW22392]

I haven’t graft persimmon but they leaf out quite late are you doing it to early?

I haven’t tried my luck at grafting yet, I purchased some from Morse nursery and some from blue hill, with both suppliers the tops dies and the rootstock has sprouted.

 

[bigboreblr]

I havent buried the graft at camp. Probably should have. Antonovka, dolgo, and B118 are about as cold hardy as they get. Not sure if graft failures are from the rootstock itself is not cold hardy enough.

I thought to get "seedling" trees from rootstock, you got to bury them almost a foot in the graft. Just an inch or two keep the graft union warmer.

Several have survived -35 deg F so far. PRobably got 25 on anty, 3 or 4 dolgo, 5 or 6 siberian crab, and only 1 kerr on B118 to try out. Everything is 3 years old or less, so hard to tell. Been weary of using M111 up at camp. PRefer m111 at home due to heavy clay as well as I dont want to be too high up in the air to well prune or spray the entire tree.

 

[bigboreblr]

I haven’t tried my luck at grafting yet, I purchased some from Morse nursery and some from blue hill, with both suppliers the tops dies and the rootstock has sprouted.

Seal the scion ends when you get the scion. You can hydrate the scion in a little water in the fridge overnight before sealing and/or before grafting. Just make sure its not sealed when hydrating.

Put the freshly grafted rootstocks in pot a dark cool place for about 3 weeks. This will let the union heal before being stressed from sun, wind, mechanical damage, etc. Make sure you don't have the soil too wet, because it dries out real slowly in that cool dark place. Might need to add water in a week or 2 after grafting.

Those 2 changes have increased my survival rate greatly.

Grafting to outdoor trees already planted, I wait until they're close to waking up. Swelled buds. Probably late march begining of april.

This i with apples, mulberry, and pears. Never messed with permission.