Intentionally limiting conifer height?

j-bird

Moderator
Does anyone have experience with limiting the height of a conifer by removing the central leader?

I have a need for what seems to be miles of conifer screen but in some cases I need to limit the height for one reason or another. I also need to stick to a single row planting - so I am trying for more of a hedge.

I am thinking of planting pine, cedar or spruce and simply topping the tree once it reaches the desired height. Will this potentially kill the tree? In most cases I actually only need like 10' tall - but I need to retain that bushy/full shape. I want to stick with conifer/evergreens that way I have the screen year-round. Otherwise I would consider cuttings, but I need far more than a wall of sticks come november.
 
I don't know about other species but on my Red pine I had a bunch of Central Leaders broken by hawks and crows last summer. On almost every tree they shot up another leader.
 
I have never done this but just down the road from me they topped Austrian pine under a power line and they did just what you described. The upper branches started to turn up like the central leader. Maybe you could do it with a spruce or something with braches to the ground.
 
It is generally not a good idea, but I think most of us have done it at one time or another. Here are a few thoughts on why it is considered bad practice.

From the U of Idaho:

Do Not Top Evergreens!
An unsatisfactory approach to tree maintenance for
any tree is to top it. Topping is the removal of all branches
of a mature tree above an arbitrary height, leaving unnatural,
grotesque stubs.
Large evergreen trees do not respond well to topping.
The removal of the upper main stem through topping
opens the tree to internal decay, disease, or damaging
insects; it also removes the most productive portion of
the crown of the tree. The result is that the tree becomes
a hazard to itself, neighboring trees, and your property.
The practice of topping to control tree size or growth
is not justified. If the tree is too large to fit the space, it
should be removed and replaced with a smaller species.

From an arborist website:


Topping is considered the most harmful tree pruning practice known. In fact, it’s regarded as such a serious crime against nature, one organization’s major efforts over the past two decades has been to stop this “torture and mutilation”. According to The International Society of Arboriculture, the most common reason given for topping is to reduce the size of a tree, either because it has become too large for the property or a perception that it may pose a hazard. Ironically, topping is not a viable solution to reducing size or hazard.
Topping Stresses Trees
When a tree is topped, up to 100% of the leaf bearing crown is removed. As leaves are the food source for any tree, the absence of this food supply can temporarily starve the tree.
As a defensive action, the starving tree responds by rapidly sending out multiple shoots from latent buds below each cut. This action is the tree’s survival mechanism to put out a new flush of leaves as soon as possible. Moreover, if the tree does not have sufficient stored energy reserves to respond in this way, it will seriously harm the tree, even leading to its premature demise.
Topping Does Not Control Size
As new shoots grow to desperately replace their food making factory, they do so rapidly, sending up numerous “water sprouts”. In some species these new shoots can grow up to 20 feet in one year. Trees will grow back rapidly and they don’t slow until they reach about their original size. It only takes up to a few years for that to happen.
Topping Does Not Make Trees Safer
The new growth that rapidly ascends from latent buds just below each cut is only anchored in the outermost layers of the parent branch. These weak attachments will never have the structural integrity of the original branch and can break off easily, even years later when they are large and heavy.
When proper pruning cuts are made (just beyond a branch collar at the branch’s point of attachment), healthy trees are genetically equipped to close the wound. Improper cuts from stubs or topping don’t heal as readily and may not be able to close. The exposed wood creates decay, entry points and pathways for pests, diseases and destructive organisms to move into and through the branches. Recall that as a tree is topped, it rapidly grows back, although with thinner, weaker branching. Topping to reduce size is a vicious cycle. Each cut sprouts multiple new branches and the conditions become exponentially problematic with each cycle. Eventually, when the tree dies because of the effects of the cumulative stress and damage, even more money will likely be spent to remove it.
 
I simply want to try to keep the tree at a specific height. I don't intend on letting them get 20 feet and then cutting the top 10 foot of. Sounds like I may be in for a constant battle however of pruning and that isn't what I want either. I was hopeful I could remove the main leader at say 8 feet tall and then essentially turn it into a large shrub. If I can't accomplish this - it also removes many pines form consideration because they tend to thin and self prune as it is as they mature. I'll do some more digging into conifer shrubs more aimed at being hedges - I just fear it's going to get real expensive going that route.
 
I simply want to try to keep the tree at a specific height. I don't intend on letting them get 20 feet and then cutting the top 10 foot of. Sounds like I may be in for a constant battle however of pruning and that isn't what I want either. I was hopeful I could remove the main leader at say 8 feet tall and then essentially turn it into a large shrub. If I can't accomplish this - it also removes many pines form consideration because they tend to thin and self prune as it is as they mature. I'll do some more digging into conifer shrubs more aimed at being hedges - I just fear it's going to get real expensive going that route.
I use to do it all the time with white pine growing up. We had a few around the yard and I would keep them short by pruning them with a machete a couple times a year. I had them turned into big balls 6-8' tall. It is a never ending job though because after I left home they took off and my dad ended up cutting them down.
 
There is a bunch of stuff out there that would fit your needs, however it is all mainly meant for landscaping. While many of the dwarf varieties of conifer would stay the height you desire, most of them would be very expensive to use as a screen unless you could find a nursery willing to sell plugs, most of the time they want to maximize profit by selling larger container sized trees though. I thought this was a good website with a lot of options, and it may be worth a call to them. They are in Indianapolis.

http://www.dammanns.com/?p=2633
 
There is a bunch of stuff out there that would fit your needs, however it is all mainly meant for landscaping. While many of the dwarf varieties of conifer would stay the height you desire, most of them would be very expensive to use as a screen unless you could find a nursery willing to sell plugs, most of the time they want to maximize profit by selling larger container sized trees though. I thought this was a good website with a lot of options, and it may be worth a call to them. They are in Indianapolis.

http://www.dammanns.com/?p=2633
Thanks Wisc - That was what I was concerned about - the stuff I was finding was more landscape based and when I need a couple hundred - well that ain't gonna fly. That was why I was looking for something I could get at more of a bulk price like cedars, pines and spruce. I'll keep looking. I also do need a hedge - I don't need it a s a fence - just the visual screen. I'll find something.
 
I use to do it all the time with white pine growing up. We had a few around the yard and I would keep them short by pruning them with a machete a couple times a year. I had them turned into big balls 6-8' tall. It is a never ending job though because after I left home they took off and my dad ended up cutting them down.
Thanks Chummer - that was the other thing I was afraid of - I figured they would continue to reach for the sky and I would be constantly on a ladder. I need a couple hundred so that isn't going to work either. That is why I ask. I figured somebody somewhere tried it already and would have the skinny.
 
You may want to check in to some of the holly and boxwood species. In 6a I think they would do very well, and many will create a dense "hedge-like" wall of evergreen foliage. Unfortunately for us more northern folk, most holly and boxwoods are hard pressed to survive our winters.
 
I have about 1,200 feet to plant in screen so which ever way I go it has to be cost effective. I'll find something - I just thought some cheap pines or spruce would work.
 
Are they gonna be under a power line or phone cable ?? Norway or white spruce make great screens and hold branches to the ground. After year 2 or 3, they tend to grow about a foot a year. I've got some Norways that are planted 18 years & they're all about 17 to 20ft. tall if that gives you an idea of height vs. time span.
 
Are they gonna be under a power line or phone cable ?? Norway or white spruce make great screens and hold branches to the ground. After year 2 or 3, they tend to grow about a foot a year. I've got some Norways that are planted 18 years & they're all about 17 to 20ft. tall if that gives you an idea of height vs. time span.
Some will be near power lines and that is why I need to limit their height. In other cases they can get bigger, but they only need to be 6 to 8 feet tall to accomplish what I need.
 
Have you considered Miscanthus grass?

Not much of a screen from Jan to June but the other 6 months are usually the important ones.
 
Have you considered Miscanthus grass?

Not much of a screen from Jan to June but the other 6 months are usually the important ones.
I have, I just don't know much about it. There doesn't seem to be a lot of info out there outside of growing it for biofuel production.
 
I wouldn't worry much about the height. As was said before you're looking at 20-25 years before they would ever get close to power lines and then you just cut the tops off. I've seen it done hundreds of times and you're good for another 10 after that. 30-35 years down the road is a long time.
 
I would say Buckly is mostly correct, but your utility company may not see it the same way. If you decide to proceed with some type of "tree" under those lines, just be prepared to have them disappear at any point the utility company does line maintenance in the future. If I were in your situation, I would likely plant Norways everywhere I could and only worry about something "shorter" in the areas directly under the lines.
 
Here's were I get my mischanthis from.

http://www.mapleriverfarms.com/
How quickly could I expect a full screen of say 8' tall? Does it stand up to snow and wind rather well? I don't get tons of snow, but the wind here it pretty regular and strong at times.
 
How quickly could I expect a full screen of say 8' tall? Does it stand up to snow and wind rather well? I don't get tons of snow, but the wind here it pretty regular and strong at times.
I would say depending on how close you plant it your could have a 6-7' stand in a couple years. I planted mine in 2 rows 3'x3' alternating and I am hoping they fill in this year, last year they were 6-7' tall.

Pic from past summer, theae were planted 2yrs ago.



Like Bill said not much of a screen Jan-June, pic a couple weeks ago after the winter here in MI.

 
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