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Grafting and budding propagation class at University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum

Hoytvectrix

5 year old buck +
Just wanted to throw it out there for those in the area that there is a grafting class offered by University of Minnesota. It is somewhat pricey ($70 for non-arboretum members), but might interesting. Apparently you will get to take a few of the grafts home.

Saturday, January 31st from 9:30-12:30.

 
Wish I were closer

I settle for the Native Hunter grafting class, persimmon thread on the forum

works for me

bill
 
Cummins nursery in Ithaca NY used to have a class. If weather one was close, I'd go to it. Might be around 100 grafted trees by now. About 50 of mine and 50 given away as gifts.

A lot of good tips on here. Little surprised how quiet the scion thread is.
 
would be nice to go, but too far...be awesome if a few of the knowledgeable guys here would go into details for us dummies, I want to try some in spring...but don't want to screw it up
 
They're easy to do. You mess up, the rootstocks still grows anyways. Got grafting tape or ceranwrap, a good sharp knife, some electrical tape, and a bucket of soil.

A few advanced tips. IF you can't get scions fresh from the tree, make sure your ends are sealed when stored in the fridge. I cut on end off and soak them in a shallow bowl of water in the fridge for about 8 hours. Onced graft, I leaveh time in a bucket of soil in a cool 50 degreeishdark spoit for 2 or 3 weeks. Let the union heal up. IF not going to be water often, you got 2 options. Shade it a little bit. A cover over the cage, like a burlap sunroof. Not removing competing trees year one isn't a bad idea. Or, grow them in root maker pots, then plant them late summer or not the fall.

Tongue and whip grafting is the most commonly used here. Get some branches and practice. Could be apple, maple, or birch probably be good too.

Make sure you got a variety of scion sizes. IF the rootstocks is large, you can double graft. That is often done in commercial tree operations. Guarantees one will take.

IF the graft fails, you can topwork in a year or two. Some guys on here just plant the rootstocks, then topwork. Also, dolgo, Ranetka, antonovka, b118, m111, and likely others make decent wildlife trees without grafting. Other might be ok too, just not much known info on them. I have yet to graft a dolgo, got 3 at camp. I intentionally did not graft 2 or 3 antonovkas at camp too. Good September into early October tree.

cummins nursery has great explanations of varieties, stark nursery has good demonstrations of pruning and other maintenance. Tons of great threads on here. MAybe we should make a thread on the top with good links to older threads here and maybe good other website info.

Buying trees is still worth it in my opinion. I still do that too. Sometimes just can't get a variety or in a rootstocks you like. Using less common G890 and P18 this year. You buy $25 dollar trees and stuff the typical 12 max in a $45 box, your're at 27 or 28 a tree. Dozen is plenty to handle in one season, but not too much. Your 2 years ahead of getting fruit buying grafted trees. Also, you can buy trees you want scion from. Nip a bit off the tree that year, or grab some the next year or years later.
 
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They're easy to do. You mess up, the rootstocks still grows anyways. Got grafting tape or ceranwrap, a good sharp knife, some electrical tape, and a bucket of soil.

A few advanced tips. IF you can't get scions fresh from the tree, make sure your ends are sealed when stored in the fridge. I cut on end off and soak them in a shallow bowl of water in the fridge for about 8 hours. Onced graft, I leaveh time in a bucket of soil in a cool 50 degreeishdark spoit for 2 or 3 weeks. Let the union heal up. IF not going to be water often, you got 2 options. Shade it a little bit. A cover over the cage, like a burlap sunroof. Not removing competing trees year one isn't a bad idea. Or, grow them in root maker pots, then plant them late summer or not the fall.

Tongue and whip grafting is the most commonly used here. Get some branches and practice. Could be apple, maple, or birch probably be good too.

Make sure you got a variety of scion sizes. IF the rootstocks is large, you can double graft. That is often done in commercial tree operations. Guarantees one will take.

IF the graft fails, you can topwork in a year or two. Some guys on here just plant the rootstocks, then topwork. Also, dolgo, Ranetka, antonovka, b118, m111, and likely others make decent wildlife trees without grafting. Other might be ok too, just not much known info on them. I have yet to graft a dolgo, got 3 at camp. I intentionally did not graft 2 or 3 antonovkas at camp too. Good September into early October tree.

cummins nursery has great explanations of varieties, stark nursery has good demonstrations of pruning and other maintenance. Tons of great threads on here. MAybe we should make a thread on the top with good links to older threads here and maybe good other website info.

Buying trees is still worth it in my opinion. I still do that too. Sometimes just can't get a variety or in a rootstocks you like. Using less common G890 and P18 this year. You buy $25 dollar trees and stuff the typical 12 max in a $45 box, your're at 27 or 28 a tree. Dozen is plenty to handle in one season, but not too much. Your 2 years ahead of getting fruit buying grafted trees. Also, you can buy trees you want scion from. Nip a bit off the tree that year, or grab some the next year or years later.
Question on this:
This will be my first year bench grafting rootstock. How important is that temperature after grafting?
You said 50ish degrees. Where I’m grating at garage temp can range 35-55 degrees at the end of March and my basement is low 60’s. How important is that cool temperature for grafts to take?
 
Many people put them in garages and do just fine. You can cover the with a blanket to keep the more stable concrete temp. Just make sure the blanket doesn't bump into the grafts.

The same with the basement, cover it up and expose it to concrete more. Slows the swings down.

Either is fine all likely. Dark n cool best you can. Basement if your rootstocks come in April. garage in March. I've used my basement, not heated, half insulated, but heat source is uninsulated 1st floor. High 50's low 60's. I give them 3 weeks in there.

Grafting Adventures of CrazyEd shows some good tips and experiences.
 
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