First tractor research

[rocksnstumps]

^^^Depends on if buying an expensive drill is a future dream for your property. Is so plan accordingly I guess. I know some folks (especially those with deep pocketbooks) consider drills the only way to plant and everyone should strive for..... But my property and likely some others have limited areas to food plot (or just total property size is too small) Not buying some $10k+ piece of equipment to work under 2 acres max in my case without some major equipment terra forming. I have commented on here before but further boulder removal on my land really needs some help from 40,000-50,000 lb equipment.

So drill capable? I. Don't. Care. Loader capability is the holy grail for me. Maybe for others too that drill able acres just isn't there. I focus on more hard and soft mast additions and shrubs for browse vs food plots

 

[pilotpip]

That would eliminate the E series from the discussion, but that's why I asked. I appreciate everyone's insights on this one. Keep them coming.

 

[TreeDaddy]

To quote the philosopher, Sly Stone: "Different strokes for different folks"

bill

 

[Bill]

What county are you in? How close is a neighbor? How often would the cabin be used?

I ask this because you mention installing septic. Over the hill systems are not uncommon in very rural areas.

Apply that Money to the $ for a new 3033R and you could have a beast of used tractor with a cab and AC.

 

[pilotpip]

Adair. Yeah, we found out about the over 40ac rule up there. My father in law wants septic on his property so we're having it put in.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

if not particularly hilly, a mid 30hp drill with solid hydraulic capacity should be able to handle a real deal 6’ pull type no till drill. Not so much with a 3 point.

My L3560 kubota is pretty maxed with a 3p600 land pride and it’s a heavier tractor with stronger hydraulics than most tractors at that power.

 

[RGrizzzz]

if not particularly hilly, a mid 30hp drill with solid hydraulic capacity should be able to handle a real deal 6’ pull type no till drill. Not so much with a 3 point.

My L3560 kubota is pretty maxed with a 3p600 land pride and it’s a heavier tractor with stronger hydraulics than most tractors at that power.

You might be able to use a PH Outdoors G5 or M5 with the 3033R.

Tractor depreciation is a serious thing. I'd find a gently used one to save a few bucks and maybe step up a model. Chat up a dealer and let them know what you're looking for and what you budget is. Make them earn your business. A dealer with several locations can likely find you what you want in budget.

Also, consider filling the tires.

 

[Westwind]

Definitely fill the tires. I forgot about that and it is important. Also make sure you realize the non-negotiable need for ballast on the back even with filled tires.

 

[Maddog66]

I have a 6’ Firminator on my 4 series and I really like the thing for my uses. It cost less than 1/2 of what drills run but it’s also not light. The 3-series I had my heart set on (3039R) wouldn’t have cut it.

But the thing that really separates the wheat from the chaff on a CUT, IMO, is loader capacity……as other wise posters note.

When bought my tractor, I honestly didn’t think I’d ever need to lift something at or over a ton. Boy was I wrong!!!

Tip : My hydraulic top link gets used every time a rear implement is connected! Far more than I imagined.

 

[pilotpip]

When looking at a used tractor, how do I know what's abused and not? What's the lifespan on wear items like hydraulic lines and service intervals on average for the system (ballpark, I realize this varies)? How many hours per year is too many? Equally important, how many is not enough?

One of the reasons I've been focusing on new is because the used tractors I'm finding are often listed at premiums because they're pre-emissions or simply not listed for much less than a new machine.

Would a 4000 series fit on a 76x16' trailer or is it too wide?

 

[Maddog66]

Stock stance on mine is 72” outside/outside. With the loader bucket and ballast box I think I’m at around 13’ long….but not 100% on that.

 

[jsasker007]

Stock stance on mine is 72” outside/outside. With the loader bucket and ballast box I think I’m at around 13’ long….but not 100% on that.

I have a couple of 4 series but don't have a ballast box. How much weight are you able to add with the box?

 

[rocksnstumps]

Most likely in a narrow setting of the hubs and rims. Also keep in mind what style tire tread you desire. The R1 ag style are a bit taller and narrower than an R4 tread (more of typical construction equipment tire). That said my older series 4 tractor with R4 just barely fit between fenders on my trailer. Also at 76" between fenders like yours. To really confirm talk to your dealer about rim mounting positions as that will be covered in an owners manual but never really see that in the much briefer product brochures. Lots of combinations there as the hub is dished and changes centerline when flipped around and the rim also has offset from center mounting when bolting the hub inside the rim. So typical tractor rear setup can be arranged giving 4 different widths with same parts

 

[rocksnstumps]

I have a couple of 4 series but don't have a ballast box. How much weight are you able to add with the box?

I think roughly 900 lbs with concrete. But that might include the extra 4-5 inches on the sides I built up with plywood when added the concrete. I forget. But did shape that added mass with a channel to accommodate the movement of the top link.

That said, my 3 pt ballast box has sat for years after loading rears and typically having heavy implement on back.

 

[JORDY]

Pardon Our Interruption

Great little tractors. Can get parts or service at any bobcat dealer. (Same maker of bobcat tractors) I scaled up to a larger tractor but miss my little Kioti at times. The loader was impressive. Just a great reliable tractor. There is an awesome dealer in perryville Mo. I live just south of St. Louis in Jefferson county.

 

[Maddog66]

I got lucky and a friend gave me a 1000# lead counterweight from an ancient tractor. It fit perfect in my ballast box, and I filled in with sand around it. 1300# total and only 2/3 full! Actually squats the tractor a little when I lift it….but lord can I grab a nice load on the front. Either the bucket or the grapple!

 

[Westwind]

I think roughly 900 lbs with concrete. But that might include the extra 4-5 inches on the sides I built up with plywood when added the concrete. I forget. But did shape that added mass with a channel to accommodate the movement of the top link.

That said, my 3 pt ballast box has sat for years after loading rears and typically having heavy implement on back.

Same. Never had a ballast box but have loaded tires and won't do anything with the loader without an implement on it.

 

[pilotpip]

Understand that. In my line of work I die pretty quickly if things aren't properly balanced.