Elderberry

Mahindra3016

5 year old buck +
Does anyone plant elderberry for cover and browse? My mother has 2 big elderberry bushes, and i hear they root easy from cuttings.

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I have planted a lot of elderberry cuttings and small seedlings and they have done well, the deer browse the heck out of them. They are easy to propagate and once they get to bearing fruit they will be spread by the birds. I am in zone 5.
 
Do they send up suckers from the base of the bushes? You can carefully dig those up and transplant them as well as using cuttings.
 
"Do they send up suckers from the base of the bushes? You can carefully dig those up and transplant them as well as using cuttings."

yes they do. I have planted a great many via that route
 
The key with elderberry (from cuttings or bareroot) is finding the right location. They like moisture, but not too much, and they don't like dry ground. Finding the right mix is important.

Deer (and birds) love them. I once found about a 20 acre stand of them, it was a JUNGLE.

Once established they can be extremely shade tolerant which is nice.

-John
 
I started a bunch from cuttings a few years ago. They are easy to start from cuttings (although I has some issues when I first started). They have worked out well for me.
 
"Do they send up suckers from the base of the bushes? You can carefully dig those up and transplant them as well as using cuttings."

yes they do. I have planted a great many via that route
I guess I was asking about the specific plants Mahindra had. lol Almost all elderberry bushes sucker, some like crazy, but there are a variety or two that are made to not sucker so redily so they can be planted in a small garden/box garden type settings. If these are at someone's home, they could possibly be one of those?
 
Im not sure if they sucker, ill take a better look

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I have planted a lot of elderberry cuttings and small seedlings and they have done well, the deer browse the heck out of them. They are easy to propagate and once they get to bearing fruit they will be spread by the birds. I am in zone 5.
Based on this, I'm guessing a bit of protection for a year or two is recommended? I can get seedlings from the DNR for $35/100 and was thinking of doing so this spring. Didn't know if I needed to protect them or not.
 
Based on this, I'm guessing a bit of protection for a year or two is recommended? I can get seedlings from the DNR for $35/100 and was thinking of doing so this spring. Didn't know if I needed to protect them or not.
Yes, any of the ones I have planted needed protection. First time we tried them, the 25 bareroot seedlings were gone within a few weeks, the deer ate everything down to the ground. After that we planted them in clusters of 3 to 5 plants and put the cheap garden fence around the whole clump for the first 4 years, after that they were able to survive on their own. The deer still hammered a lot of the new growth, but couldn't kill them at that point.
 
Based on this, I'm guessing a bit of protection for a year or two is recommended? I can get seedlings from the DNR for $35/100 and was thinking of doing so this spring. Didn't know if I needed to protect them or not.
Depending on deer densities and available food they may. However once they are established (full year at least), deer can browse them to the ground and they will grow back from the roots so any protection is short term.
 
Low or high density deer pop, they will still hammer them once they find them. I would protect for a couple years and then they should be good to go.
 
Keep in mind that cuttings are pretty easy. Most just use a screw driver or similar object to jam a hole in the ground and slip in the cutting. I wanted to experiment and learn the first year I played with them. I got my first cuttings from John and BigRock. I tried starting them indoor in 18s. I tried to force things to fast and got poor results. Big8 was kind enough to send me a bunch of cuttings for a re-try that same winter. This time I kept the tops cool and not under lights to slow them breaking dormancy and put heating pads under the 18s to warm the soil and encourage rooting. After a few weeks I then bring them into a warmer area and put them under lights. This worked pretty well and I had a good success rate.

Since I've learned that if you want to give cuttings an early start indoors, 5" roottrapper bags work the best. Buds are so far apart (you want a pair under the medium and a pair above the medium) that in 18s, they stick up a lot. A slight bump with a wand or watering can may rip young roots. With a 5" bag, they don't stick up as high and there is more under the medium for rooting. 18 are great for pruning a tap root but cuttings don't have tap roots so the roottrapper bags are ideal.

Elderberries respond very well to root pruning and really take off when planted in the spring if started indoors under lights. I still do this with yellow twig dogwood (I think this is just a color variation of ROD) because I've had less success putting cuttings directly in the ground outside. My success rate with elderberry cuttings directly in the ground outdoors is good enough that I don't bother starting them indoors any more.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Does anyone know a good source for elderberry cuttings? Big Rock is out and a quick Google search didn't produce much. Perhaps I'm a little late this year?
 
I don't know any commercial source. I'll be using the cuttings I took this year or I'd send you some. We don't have wild elderberries at my farm. The first year when I was experimenting with them, Big8 on this forum was gracious enough to send me a boat load in the middle of winter. You may PM him and see if you can work something out.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Does anyone know a good source for elderberry cuttings? Big Rock is out and a quick Google search didn't produce much. Perhaps I'm a little late this year?

I can send you a bunch, let me know when you want them
 
Is there a "best" time to collect cuttings, and to put them into the ground? I did some cuttings early last spring (right before they broke dormancy) that were successful but I could have just gotten lucky...

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Is there a "best" time to collect cuttings, and to put them into the ground? I did some cuttings early last spring (right before they broke dormancy) that were successful but I could have just gotten lucky...

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It may depend on your area. Here in zone 7a, collection and immediate planting in the ground in November worked pretty well for me.
 
It may depend on your area. Here in zone 7a, collection and immediate planting in the ground in November worked pretty well for me.
Do it now and leave it there for the winter? I'm 6a. We will get below 20 degrees for a week or two on average...

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Do it now and leave it there for the winter? I'm 6a. We will get below 20 degrees for a week or two on average...

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I can't make a recommendation for your zone. Our winters are not as severe as yours. However, there really are no roots to freeze until they form. Tops should be adapted for your temps. I'll share some experiences with you and you can draw conclusions about what to do in your zone (or better yet, ask John as he is much more experienced with cuttings than I am):

When I first started playing with them, I put them in 18s and put them under light in my indoor greenhouse along with my seedlings. The quickly leafed out and I was encouraged at first, but most died. After talking with John, I understood that the energy stored in the scion will go toward both root development and leafing out and producing top growth. A cutting is unbalanced. The buds are mature and ready to grow, but it has no roots at all. '

Big8 was kind enough to send me a bunch of cuttings for a second try. With them, I kept the tops cool and put them in a window where they would they would only get natural light. The idea was to delay dormancy and give them time to produce roots. While you wouldn't do this part with a cutting planted in the field, I tried to also speed root development by putting a heating pad under the containers to warm the soil. My second attempt worked very well and I got a high percentage of cuttings to root. After a few weeks in these conditions, I put them under lights and warmed them up.

So, the conclusions that I would draw is that they need time for rooting to form before they break dormancy. I don't know if the conditions in your zone would be an issue. I would collect cuttings when dormant and I'd wait until I was ready to plant them. There is no better storage for cuttings than on the plant.

Thanks,

Jack
 
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