Direct Plant | Apple Tree Root Stock

[TreesuitSC]

What are your thoughts on purchasing root stock and planting it upon receiving.

Then allowing it to grow to sufficient size and grafting it with a simple bark graft. That is the only method I have really tried. It’s the same I use with the American Persimmon.

 

[Turkey Creek]

Wont be an issue other than you will need to protect it like you would a newly planted tree. Also be able to supplement watering if need be.

 

[b116757]

I have much better success with the direct planting and bark grafting a year or two latter than I do with bench grafts but my bench grafting technique is sketchy at best.

 

[Telemark]

What are your thoughts on purchasing root stock and planting it upon receiving.

Then allowing it to grow to sufficient size and grafting it with a simple bark graft. That is the only method I have really tried. It’s the same I use with the American Persimmon.

It's a great idea, and I prefer it.

The benefit of bench grafting is convenience. You can have all your tools and wax there beside you, and you can work at a table or bench. It's great if you are doing a lot of grafts and have space to put them while they heal.

Field grafting using bark or side grafts is dead easy and highly successful. The downside is taking all your equipment into the field and crawling around on the ground to do it.

 

[chickenlittle]

You’ll be farther ahead bench grafting and planting out anything you have scionwood for. If any grafts fail, field graft them later.

 

[Mozark]

I don't bench graft any more, I plant and protect the rootstocks when received. After they have been in the ground two years, I go back and graft using a simple cleft. It is the easiest fastest way I have found. I have a much higher rate of takes especially with pears and if I happen to loose one or two im not out much, time or money.

 

[TreesuitSC]

Thank you all. I appreciate the help.

Kind of new to Apples. Should you tube them or not?

 

[AtomApple]

Thank you all. I appreciate the help.

Kind of new to Apples. Should you tube them or not?

YouTube is a great source of information !

from what I’ve read on here it seems to NOT be recommended to use tree tubes. Sounds like fruit trees are more susceptible to fungus, etc with tubes on. Cages and screens seems to be the most successful strategy.

 

[AtomApple]

I don't bench graft any more, I plant and protect the rootstocks when received. After they have been in the ground two years, I go back and graft using a simple cleft. It is the easiest fastest way I have found. I have a much higher rate of takes especially with pears and if I happen to loose one or two im not out much, time or money.

Do you cleft graft where the Scion size matches the leader? I have heard rumors of trees being able to survive in colder zones by grafting higher.

 

[Mozark]

Do you cleft graft where the Scion size matches the leader? I have heard rumors of trees being able to survive in colder zones by grafting higher.

Im in mid zone 6, I graft apple and pear close to the ground. Have thought of trying that with asian persimmons that might not be hardy here.

 

[b116757]

Many many folks disagree with me on here and prefer cages over tubes I have had pretty good luck with the tubes myself but I do have a high hawk population that keeps vermin in check and out of my tubes.

 

[b116757]

My recommendation in zone 3 or colder is burying the grafts and let the scion wood self root so the likelihood of graft failure’s do to cold is eliminated.

 

[bigboreblr]

Treesuit,

Guessing your in South Carolina. Drought might be your top concern. I'd plant (2) bareroots about 18 inches apart, fine mesh cage the trunks with 18 inches of 1/4" mesh, then put your 4 or 5ft tall cages, 10-15ft of cage in a circle around the 2 trees. If both survive a year or two, then dig one up in the fall and move.

Using 4 pallets to make a cage would be a decent idea too. It would shade the trees a touch to prevent too much heat stress on the new trees.

Sandier soils usually B118 is considered better. However, they say M111 is more drought tolerant. Since most southern states have sept hunts, you could just plant a dolgo rootstock or transcendant and just use that for your trees. To get oct/ nov trees, you leaning more towards grafted varieties. I'd check the chill hours on them before decieding to not graft them. There are numerous crabs out there that are true to seed and you may not need to graft.

Most folks have their hunting spot away from their home. I'd plant one or two of the varieties you really want at home. This way you'll have tons of scionwood in 2 or 3 years, Still have a few spare twings the 1st year in. In zone 8 SC, you're not going to have alot of chill hours. There's a inhibitor hormone that get used up during cold days. The tree need enough time in "winter" to work. MY guess SC is 600 or less chill hours.

Climate Zones & Chill Hours » Planting & Care » Tomorrow's Harvest

Macroclimate Zones USDA Cold Hardiness Zones If you look at most plant labels, you’ll see a zone designation, such as “Hardy to Zone 7.” These labels refer to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones, which divide North America into zones based... Read the full post

www.tomorrowsharvest.com

Pink Lady, Fuji, and Granny Smith are common low chill hour varieties. With the nursery specific deer crabaaple varieties, I would email them and see if they know of anyone who had success in your zone.

Willis orchard has pretty mixed reviews by folks on this forum. However, they are close to you in GA. You can atleast get an idea what varieties might grow well there. A few members who regular this forum have apple trees in florida too.

 

[Hoytvectrix]

I was going to start a separate thread for this same question but found this one. My predicament is that I live 6 hours from where the trees will ultimately be planted.

I want to plant somewhere between 5-10 trees each of apples and pears, with a couple of peaches thrown in for some fun.

I am debating about planting the bare-root rootstocks next spring and then bark grafting after they have been established. They will be protected in field with screens and cages. My concerns are the following:
1. I live so far away from where the grafts will be healing to keep an eye on them
2. I may be waiting several years for the rootstocks to be big enough to bark graft, or using t-budding in the early summer.

I spoke with some apple breeders and this is what they suggested (pre-plant rootstocks in the field and then t-bud graft later). They live where they work and are experts, so I am not quite sure if I am just wasting time with this approach.

I have space and can protect the plants in pots if I graft them and pot them where I live to be planted in the field in the fall. I feel like I can get more attempts at this approach but my experience with potted fruit trees hasn't been great.

Has anyone in a similar scenario tried one or both of these approaches?

 

[bigboreblr]

Once initial grafting and rootstock survives the spring, I have 100% success putting them in root maker pots. I have planted those pots anywhere from june to december. All have made it. 30ish at camp, a few at home.

IF you ask for small trees, you can do them with bareroots too. I did a enterprise on m111 and a violi's on anty. enterprise was for a firend who just bought a new house and was redoing the lawn. The put it in around 4th of july. I got violi's from SLN nursery. This guy had like next ot no roots. Thought it wouldn't make it at camp without frequent watering. I planted that one in september.

Get a blend of topsoil and native soil were it's going to be planted. Prep the hole anytime you can get to it, or right before planting. Spread lime a few months before planting. I ammend with pelletized lime in the pot and osmocote. I use agriform tablets when planting in permanent home.

Soil is poor prep the area. If I have the time I do a 4x6ftx2ft deep hole with peat moss, some topsoil, pelletized lime to correct the pH, and put in a coffee cup or two of triple 10. The lime and fertilizer have time to mix in and not burn roots if you work ahead. Also, you can plant during hunting season if the spots are prepped without too much noise.

IF driect planting, you can use the T-bid route the 1st year.

Can't water, make up for it with plenty of mulch. I do hybrid setups. I put a smaller 2x2ft or so weedmat with stone ontop of it to keep critters from messing with the roots. Then use 1 or 2 bags of mulch around the stone.

When you can water, use a bucket eith a 1/4" hole in the bottom to slow water. Makes it go deeper. I suually water with a mild dose of miracle grow. IF they're thirsty, theyre hungry too.

 

[bigboreblr]

I'd pass on the peaches, they need spraying to be worth anything. Try to pick pears or apples with thicker skin too, to keep yellow jackets a bay. Non red apples help too.

 

[Teeder]

I've had great success planting the rootstock one year and then cleft grafting the next spring.