Turkey Creek
5 year old buck +
I have seen a coyote clear a field of deer just by walking into it. Other times the deer don't even raise their heads. Would be tough this time of year to trap coyotes on your property and not spook deer.
-
If you are posting pictures, and they aren't posting in the correct orientation, please flush your browser cache and try again.
Edge
Safari/iOS
Chrome
Coyote Problem
- Thread starter Cool Hand Luke
- Start date
MadMadHoosier
5 year old buck +
We have WiFi beamed to several spots around the Western Kentucky cabin and use a $80 solar Reolink camera that can distinguish between people, vehicles, and animals. It is set to alert my phone when animals are on the 100 yard gut pile. Coyotes and raccoons are the focus. Since doing so, rabbits are coming back, and some occasional quail.
MadMadHoosier
5 year old buck +
The WiFi access point is a $199 Ubiquiti Unifi U7 Outdoor. I don't believe you will find an access point with longer range than this one. It does tons better than my old Bullet access points with directional Yagi antenna. The original need for long range WiFi was for a MyQ gate operator about 370 yards from a cabin. It works beautifully for that. So well that I put one of the ReoLink cameras beyond the gate, about 600 yards from the cabin, and while a stretch, it actually works pretty well. Obviously any trees or buildings between the access point and camera/MyQ will quickly degrade the signal and limit the distance.
I've heard they can be set up without a gateway, but mine are managed with a Ubiquiti Dream Machine Pro-SE. I chose this gateway because it has built in PoE switching and an internal hard drive bay that can act as a NVR for my Ubiquiti security cameras around the cabin. Unfortunately Ubiquiti does not make any solar powered WiFi cameras, so I use the ReoLink for my extended WiFi cameras.
Oh... by default the U7 uses an internal directional antenna aimed out the face of the unit. But you can install the two antenna pictured below and change the settings to be an Omni-directional AP. It will still reach over 100 yards in Omni mode.
same here, sometimes the deer will freak out, and sometimes the deer is not concerned at all. I do know this, (prob wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't got numerous videos of it), but it only takes 2-3 yotes to drag off a 200lb dead pig. And I never find the pig carcass after.
I've also personally witnessed: 2 yotes attack a smaller pig, maybe 40-50 lbs, and after a half hour of chasing/squealing, and pig fighting for his life, they finally got him. it was a helluva fight.
Also witnessed a yote sneak up on 4 jakes like an alley cat. like a jedi, he got the jump on them, and chaos ensued. those jakes fought back, 3 of them flogging the hell out of that yote to get him off the turkey he was on. the yote then took off for about 20 yds and stopped. Those jakes banded back together, lined up shoulder to shoulder like an offensive line of a football team, and charged the yote and ran him right off. gave me a new respect for turkeys for sure!
Cool Hand Luke
5 year old buck +
Dang man! Thanks for sharing. Love the stories!
swat1018
5 year old buck +
Coyotes are pretty easy to catch, really. I'd definitely run a few traps on the outskirts of your yard or where the chickens are. Not sure I'd wade deep into your hunting areas making sets until you figure it out. Just learn a basic dirt hole set. You can even use pre-made baits like "Top Dog," and also use a lure, plus a squirt of coyote urine. There are plenty of good videos.
The main issue for a beginner is the cost of entry. You need some descent traps, staking system, sifter, etc. Pillow fill for under the pan, lures, etc.
The main issue for a beginner is the cost of entry. You need some descent traps, staking system, sifter, etc. Pillow fill for under the pan, lures, etc.
Telemark
5 year old buck +
It's one of the cheapest hobbies I ever started. Traps are under $20 each, easily. Lures last a long time. I made myself a sift and got the rest of my tools from Harbor Freight.
The barrier for entry for me was knowledge and skill.
Cool Hand Luke
5 year old buck +
Thanks for all the information guys! I will definitely consider trying my hand at it again this winter!
Telemark
5 year old buck +
Care to share your secrets?
swat1018
5 year old buck +
The hardest part is finding the good spots. If you know spots they frequent, that's half the battle. A problem for some people is to leave their sets alone. I've had sets not do anything for 3 weeks, then I catch one. Resist the urge to walk up to your sets and examine them, if you can. Think of the predominant wind and put traps/scent where the wind works for you.
Try to find a natural backing, if not fashion one with rocks, tree limbs, whatever is half-way natural looking. I use store bought bait, mice, meat scraps. I like to use a variety on my line, don't always use the same bait on every set. Cover the bait in the hole with something, I like sheep's wool, a piece of squirrel tail, rabbit fur, or if nothing else, a wad of grass as a last resort. I cut a lot of tails off road-kill squirrels! I put my lure on the trap backing, something a little higher than the trap just so the lure can catch some wind and work for you. Bed your trap so it doesn't rock, shim it with a rock or clay, whatever you need to do. I put a wad of pillow fill under my pan to keep dirt and debris from getting under the pan and preventing a fire. I trap freezing temperatures so I cover the trap with peat moss that you can buy at Menard's. Then take some dirt and sift a very thin layer over the moss, just enough to make it look like the surrounding ground. If you trap in a warm climate, you can just sift dirt. Remember, this trap may be in the ground a month and weather changes, I always just use the peat moss. Sift some more dirt a in a wider area to blend the set in. Pick up coyote turds when you see them. I place a turd near the trap to help position the coyote's foot on the pan, they won't step on the turd. When you finally catch a coyote, they will crap when they are caught, save the turds and use them on future sets. Lastly, I put a squirt of coyote urine behind the set. If you have a lot of deer in your trapping area firing off your traps, it's usually from the uring. Skip the urine if it's causing you problems.
If a spot is good enough for 1 trap, it's good enough for 2 or 3. You can't catch a double if you don't set multiple traps in one spot. I like trapping with a buddy, when we set a spot he makes a set and I make a set in close proximity. Also, when you catch a coyote, or fox, definitely reset the trap. The first one is the hardest, after you catch one and they put down all of that scent, the area will get a lot of traffic. A lot of guys say to reset outside of the catch circle, which I do if the original set is too tore up, but many times I reset in the exact same trap bed and dirt hole.
I don't think I have any secrets, I just put traps in the ground in high probability spots and have patience....
Try to find a natural backing, if not fashion one with rocks, tree limbs, whatever is half-way natural looking. I use store bought bait, mice, meat scraps. I like to use a variety on my line, don't always use the same bait on every set. Cover the bait in the hole with something, I like sheep's wool, a piece of squirrel tail, rabbit fur, or if nothing else, a wad of grass as a last resort. I cut a lot of tails off road-kill squirrels! I put my lure on the trap backing, something a little higher than the trap just so the lure can catch some wind and work for you. Bed your trap so it doesn't rock, shim it with a rock or clay, whatever you need to do. I put a wad of pillow fill under my pan to keep dirt and debris from getting under the pan and preventing a fire. I trap freezing temperatures so I cover the trap with peat moss that you can buy at Menard's. Then take some dirt and sift a very thin layer over the moss, just enough to make it look like the surrounding ground. If you trap in a warm climate, you can just sift dirt. Remember, this trap may be in the ground a month and weather changes, I always just use the peat moss. Sift some more dirt a in a wider area to blend the set in. Pick up coyote turds when you see them. I place a turd near the trap to help position the coyote's foot on the pan, they won't step on the turd. When you finally catch a coyote, they will crap when they are caught, save the turds and use them on future sets. Lastly, I put a squirt of coyote urine behind the set. If you have a lot of deer in your trapping area firing off your traps, it's usually from the uring. Skip the urine if it's causing you problems.
If a spot is good enough for 1 trap, it's good enough for 2 or 3. You can't catch a double if you don't set multiple traps in one spot. I like trapping with a buddy, when we set a spot he makes a set and I make a set in close proximity. Also, when you catch a coyote, or fox, definitely reset the trap. The first one is the hardest, after you catch one and they put down all of that scent, the area will get a lot of traffic. A lot of guys say to reset outside of the catch circle, which I do if the original set is too tore up, but many times I reset in the exact same trap bed and dirt hole.
I don't think I have any secrets, I just put traps in the ground in high probability spots and have patience....
