Clover?
- Thread starter Yarg
- Start date
What variety of clover was it? Thanks
bbcoach
5 year old buck +
Durana. I'm on my 3rd year with this stuff and the stolons have gotten so thick, I don't think a mouse could get under it.
Tap
5 year old buck +
If the clover is weed free, you could spray a low dose of gly on the clover. It'll set back the clover long enough for the brassica to get started. The low dose gly is used by Ed Spinazzolla, but he stipulates that it needs to be done on established clover (2 year old??) and also when the clover is not under stress. Normally, brassica is planted during the time when clover is under stress (mid-late summer). If you are getting a good amount of rain, your clover would most likely bounce back from the weak gly.
Ed Spin is highly regarded among habitat guys, but I will say that I don't agree with the low dose gly on weeds. I believe it can contribute to gly resistant weeds. But if you are just spraying to set the clover back slightly so the brassica can establish, it might be worth a try.
Another thing to consider is that, if your deer are anything like mine, they will probably be eating the young brassica because they are already right there eating the clover. You may want to cage a small area to monitor exactly how well the brassica is actually doing.
Ed Spin is highly regarded among habitat guys, but I will say that I don't agree with the low dose gly on weeds. I believe it can contribute to gly resistant weeds. But if you are just spraying to set the clover back slightly so the brassica can establish, it might be worth a try.
Another thing to consider is that, if your deer are anything like mine, they will probably be eating the young brassica because they are already right there eating the clover. You may want to cage a small area to monitor exactly how well the brassica is actually doing.
This is in line with the info I've read and what what I've been thinking.
The native clovers and volunteer hairy vetch that are present on my plot we're set back from my gly phosphate burn down and now I have beans and volunteer radishes and kale growing through both. I assume this doesn't allow full growth potential of plants but the mulch aspect blocks out weeds and they are a food source themselves so I think the less growth is acceptable. my thoughts are to create essentially a low-growing white clover plot as a living mulch and do just what you said..a 1-2% gly spray pre Brassica and from there the learning will begin.. probably have to seed extra-heavy that would all be trial and error going to research this further. probably utilize Dutch White but I'm going to research this more I think there's a New Zealand variety that's also very low growing that supposedly creates more nitrogen similar to hairy vetch. On that note, because of the slower growth and low-growing characteristics Dutch white clover is not utilized much in food plotting but isn't the low growth more preferred... Does anyone have experience utilizing it. thanks
Livesintrees
5 year old buck +
From the many questions I’ve asked on here and responses that I’ve gotten. Once I establish my first plot this fall (clover,chicory, WR, brassica), I plan to front seed with more clover/chicory in spring. Then one fall I’m going to broadcast WR and brassica into the stand, and then mow the clover down low. The temps here should have the clover to a point where it will be slowing down enough to let the others take off for the fall/winter.
yoderjac
5 year old buck +
I'd take it one step at a time and evaluate. If you follow best practices for establishment in the fall followed by timely mowing in the spring to release the clover and terminate any brassica from bolting, frost seeding that following spring may be a waste of time. It takes time for perennial clover to establish a root system. Only if you had some unusual problem would you need to frost seed more clover and chicory that following spring. Once the clover/chicory are well established the next fall, you will know if you have any holes in the clover you want to fill in by frost seeding the second spring.
Best of luck,
Jack
Jack I was wondering did you go over the recommended pounds per acre Drilling of the radishes in order to get a decent stand.. and did the Clover come back alright the following year or did you terminate it if it came back is this something you did it again or would recommend thanksYou can do it if the established clover is dormant or suppressed by mowing flat or sprayed with glyphosate at 1 qt/ac with rain in the forecast.
The above pics are groundhog radish and winter rye drilled into suppressed ladino clover.
Thanks,
Jack
yoderjac
5 year old buck +
In my area, no termination of radish is necessary. They start to get mushy on warm days in the winter and don't over winter. That is why I used radish instead of turnips. Turnips will overwinter here and need to be terminated in the spring before they bolt. I also broadcast a cover crop of WR/CC/PTT into beans when they yellow. In this case the PTT needs to be terminated in the spring. For this, I set a tiller very high so it is barely touching the top inch of soil. It terminates the PTT but does not seem to hurt the WR or CC. They bounce right back in the spring.
I can't recall what rate I drilled. In fact, if you look closely you see that I actually drilled strips into the suppressed clover. My little Kasco no-till versadrill is only 4' wide with 9" rows. You will see there are strips 4' wide with random gaps between them. My purpose for doing this was not really to get a field of radish. It was to first, refurbish an older weedy established clover field. Gly at 1 qt/ac only tops kills the clover but will kill most of the invading weeds. Second, the more N that is banked in the field over time, the more attractive the field becomes to invading grasses. The GHR and WR I drilled use up some of that N giving me a few extra years out of an old clover field. The GHR does enhance the attractiveness by adding some variety. Most important the radish adds OM and provides some organic tillage to my clay soils without reducing food value for long or eating OM as traditional tillage does.
Thanks,
Jack
I can't recall what rate I drilled. In fact, if you look closely you see that I actually drilled strips into the suppressed clover. My little Kasco no-till versadrill is only 4' wide with 9" rows. You will see there are strips 4' wide with random gaps between them. My purpose for doing this was not really to get a field of radish. It was to first, refurbish an older weedy established clover field. Gly at 1 qt/ac only tops kills the clover but will kill most of the invading weeds. Second, the more N that is banked in the field over time, the more attractive the field becomes to invading grasses. The GHR and WR I drilled use up some of that N giving me a few extra years out of an old clover field. The GHR does enhance the attractiveness by adding some variety. Most important the radish adds OM and provides some organic tillage to my clay soils without reducing food value for long or eating OM as traditional tillage does.
Thanks,
Jack
Thank you Jack
