CAR-what should I spray with?
- Thread starter sandbur
- Start date
Turkey Creek
5 year old buck +
Well if the cedars look like that at your place now you are likely too late for good control on your apple trees. Once the teliohorns develop (the rubbery looking fingers) the galls on the apples are already actively releasing spores. Usually at bloom and and then every 7 - 10 days as long as the galls look like that on the cedars you need to apply. Once the galls on the cedars dry up you dont have to worry about CAR anymore for that year. I bought and used "Inspire Super" this year, I have had zero CAR on my trees this year. Its not cheap, but I wanted something that will actively attack Scab as well. Captan is only a preventive fungicide it does not actively kill out fungus once it is established on leaves and fruit.
Does the CAR in your area cause problems with your apple trees? There are lots of apple trees and red cedars in SE MN as well, but the apples still produce really well. I'm assuming the spots on the leaves might slow the growth a little and maybe leave some blemishes on the fruit, but I don't know if that would be a major issue for orchards primarily for deer.
I have some similar looking cedars with those orange globs all over them growing 10 yards from some apple trees. Hopefully they continue to play nice together because I really like the cover that cedars provide.
I have some similar looking cedars with those orange globs all over them growing 10 yards from some apple trees. Hopefully they continue to play nice together because I really like the cover that cedars provide.
sandbur
5 year old buck +
CAR has caused problems for some varieties. Frostbite seems susceptible and some seedlings from my wife's Grandma. And Antanovka.
sandbur
5 year old buck +
Most have probably not seen the amount of cedars I have.I've seen some CAR but nothing like that before.
FarmerDan
5 year old buck +
I'm gonna' shoot from the hip here. My knowledge of fungicides is really out of date. Until recently(so it seems to me, hahaha) fungicides were applied as preventive measures. They had no curative value. Once you had the disease and the fungus, you had it. I think the curative fungicides are mis-named. While they are absorbed into the plant, they still need to be applied before or just days after the disease is observed. The sulfers, coppers, -zebs &-zates, are all preventive. If you have 'it,' they won't help. If you don't see 'it,' get going now. If you're a little ahead of the problem, the 'curratives' might work. But, since you're here asking, well, it might be too late?
I dunno. Fungicides and their use is a complicated subject. I'm sure my knowledge is way out of date? If only there was a glyphosate-like fungicide!~
I dunno. Fungicides and their use is a complicated subject. I'm sure my knowledge is way out of date? If only there was a glyphosate-like fungicide!~
Maya
5 year old buck +
Yup you're right Farmer Dan, most are applied prior to infection as a preventative measure. I should have put that in my other post. Others with different modes of actions such as strobilurins (Sovran, Pristine etc) or DMI's may have some backdating properties , but only for 48 hours or so depending on the exact fungicide.
So most likely you won't be able to control it this year Art. Mid spring in Vermont si when we start spraying here for it. While we are at it, I wouldn't spray much of anything without a respirator.
So most likely you won't be able to control it this year Art. Mid spring in Vermont si when we start spraying here for it. While we are at it, I wouldn't spray much of anything without a respirator.
