At the risk of sounding stupid....

Livesintrees

5 year old buck +
So I’ve been gone cutting to some extent for quite awhile now. Now on my own property I’ve startesd ast year and the deer responded better then I could hope. I’ll hinge a bit more this offseason in the same areas as well.

We know that getting sunlight to the forest floor rejuvenates the seedbank with natural browse and Forbe growth.

In a mature hardwoods setting has anyone given thought to or has anyone experienced a benefit to removing some leaf cover from the forest floor? I know some burn their timber. Has anyone gone as simple as taking a leaf blower to an area and simply exposed bare soil to the sun directly? And in addition possibly broadcast some all purpose fertilizer to such an area? I know leaf cover or not, the sun and Mother Nature make it happen. But perhaps increased results with some help are possible. I’m not talking a 50 acre area (that’s just crazy) But for the smaller scale more precisely placed bedding areas that may be 1/2 acre or around there.

I’ve fertilized sections of properties in the passed before a rain and in a weeks time the draw it had to the deer was undeniable. Maybe it would provide the same assistance to such areas.

With the end or nearing the end of the late seasons in most of the country, habitat season (almost as much fun as hunting) as I like to call it is here.
 
I've never done it but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Removing the leaf thatch is removing it no matter how.
 
Do a side by side trial and see what happens!
 
One of our foresters suggested doing that to expose more mineral soil - not leaf duff - so acorns, hickory nuts, and seed of all sorts could get soil contact after we logged an area. But we didn't do it for lack of manpower to do the raking. But the fact that he suggested it would make me think it has merit to expose the soil. He DID say that wherever mineral soil was exposed from skidding logs, tracks from dozer & skidder trails, would have better germination of anything that hit the soil.

It might be a good thing to try, Livesintrees.
 
I think you would get better results on your labor efforts if you skipped the raking/leaf blowing step and instead spent that time hinge cutting more trees and dropping junk trees.

But I do think it would be interesting to do a small scale side by side test to see what happens.

In our area we have tons of squirrels and they are really good at burying acorns to ensure they get plenty of soil contact. If you shoot a bunch of the squirrels now their entire acorn stockpiles will be in the ground ready to grow next spring. The acorns don't grow though unless they get plenty of sun.
 
I think I I just might. I can’t help but think that once sun is introduced such a thing would even help with getting perhaps easier spread of various plants via birds (well their crap anyway). Hitting bare soil vs hitting ground that has never seen direct sun for who knows how many hundred if not more years would help. Areas are manageable enough where I could get em blown clean in one long day. Might be something I do after he rest of the winter habitat projects are either done or I run outta time
 
I think you would get better results on your labor efforts if you skipped the raking/leaf blowing step and instead spent that time hinge cutting more trees and dropping junk trees.

But I do think it would be interesting to do a small scale side by side test to see what happens.

In our area we have tons of squirrels and they are really good at burying acorns to ensure they get plenty of soil contact. If you shoot a bunch of the squirrels now their entire acorn stockpiles will be in the ground ready to grow next spring. The acorns don't grow though unless they get plenty of sun.

Once season ends the first task is rewalk the line and replace any posted signs that need replacing. After that is tree removal along a plot trail I started this passed fall to increase sunlight followed by furthur bedding area hinge cuts. My father likes being in the woods and helping with all these projects. When I have to work and he wants something to do by himself (something safe as he’s 62 now) I may say go clean the bedding areas out. Then it’s time (hopefully enough time off work) to get some more Norway’s along with other planting’s in the ground.
 
I think its a pretty neat project to try! Bet you will get some positive results! Keep us posted!
 
149E8AA2-23B0-4FE2-8D54-D5CE265B1523.jpeg03E19AB5-164B-4884-9C02-C41C8E3B18D8.jpegI inadvertently did something similar to your plan. 3 years ago I hinge cut a 5 acre area for a large bedding area. This was a mature woods so the leaf litter was pretty thick. I decided to burn it when I was done but rains put out the fire when it was about 60% done. I never did get back to finish the burn and the difference is night and day. The entire area was cut the same. To this day you can tell where the fire stopped. Here is the photos of the area different seasons but you can see the difference in stem count and density. The green area is all about 6’ tall now and almost perfect deer habitat. I wouldn’t hesitate to remove the leafs again. I didn’t fertilize but the browse is very evident when you walk the area.
 
View attachment 22205View attachment 22206I inadvertently did something similar to your plan. 3 years ago I hinge cut a 5 acre area for a large bedding area. This was a mature woods so the leaf litter was pretty thick. I decided to burn it when I was done but rains put out the fire when it was about 60% done. I never did get back to finish the burn and the difference is night and day. The entire area was cut the same. To this day you can tell where the fire stopped. Here is the photos of the area different seasons but you can see the difference in stem count and density. The green area is all about 6’ tall now and almost perfect deer habitat. I wouldn’t hesitate to remove the leafs again. I didn’t fertilize but the browse is very evident when you walk the area.

Exactly what I was hoping someone would chime in with. I have two bedding areas started right now from last year. I didn’t go gangbusters on it just in case I had trees no survive do the weather and other factors. It ended up being a success. The two areas are right about 3/4 on an acre each. They are on the same mountainside type of bench and have maybe 200ish yards between each other. Different deer groups use each area and the bucks travel between the two. So I’m dealing with a small enough area that I can make reasonably quick work out of it. So based on that I’m going to open the canopy up some more. Make sure they have access through it all. And then take the backpack blower in and expose the soil.
 
So I’ve been gone cutting to some extent for quite awhile now. Now on my own property I’ve startesd ast year and the deer responded better then I could hope. I’ll hinge a bit more this offseason in the same areas as well.

We know that getting sunlight to the forest floor rejuvenates the seedbank with natural browse and Forbe growth.

In a mature hardwoods setting has anyone given thought to or has anyone experienced a benefit to removing some leaf cover from the forest floor? I know some burn their timber. Has anyone gone as simple as taking a leaf blower to an area and simply exposed bare soil to the sun directly? And in addition possibly broadcast some all purpose fertilizer to such an area? I know leaf cover or not, the sun and Mother Nature make it happen. But perhaps increased results with some help are possible. I’m not talking a 50 acre area (that’s just crazy) But for the smaller scale more precisely placed bedding areas that may be 1/2 acre or around there.

I’ve fertilized sections of properties in the passed before a rain and in a weeks time the draw it had to the deer was undeniable. Maybe it would provide the same assistance to such areas.

With the end or nearing the end of the late seasons in most of the country, habitat season (almost as much fun as hunting) as I like to call it is here.
You have been reading my mind, for yrs I've been thinking about this. Doing a burn is frowned upon in NY. Our wood lot is mostly mature oaks, maples, Ash and hickories the floor is a thick carpet of leaves. The challenge I believe is it becomes a pretty labor intensive job as I don't think the leaf blower will do a great job with the layers of leaves. Give it a try and let us know but I'd assume the Forrest floor will benefit from it!
 
So I’ve been gone cutting to some extent for quite awhile now. Now on my own property I’ve startesd ast year and the deer responded better then I could hope. I’ll hinge a bit more this offseason in the same areas as well.

We know that getting sunlight to the forest floor rejuvenates the seedbank with natural browse and Forbe growth.

In a mature hardwoods setting has anyone given thought to or has anyone experienced a benefit to removing some leaf cover from the forest floor? I know some burn their timber. Has anyone gone as simple as taking a leaf blower to an area and simply exposed bare soil to the sun directly? And in addition possibly broadcast some all purpose fertilizer to such an area? I know leaf cover or not, the sun and Mother Nature make it happen. But perhaps increased results with some help are possible. I’m not talking a 50 acre area (that’s just crazy) But for the smaller scale more precisely placed bedding areas that may be 1/2 acre or around there.

I’ve fertilized sections of properties in the passed before a rain and in a weeks time the draw it had to the deer was undeniable. Maybe it would provide the same assistance to such areas.

With the end or nearing the end of the late seasons in most of the country, habitat season (almost as much fun as hunting) as I like to call it is here.

Fire can be used on a small scale as well. The MSU Deer lab showed how effective a tiny controlled burn within bow range of a treestand can be. You can use a leaf blower to create a firebreak and then burn. I have messed with microplots in hardwoods. Leaves cover the plots when the fall and I've used a leaf blower. I found it was just too much work given the benefit. Using a leaf blower to make a firebreak around the area lighting it is less work and provides more benefit as those leaf nutrients are returned to the soil.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Fire can be used on a small scale as well. The MSU Deer lab showed how effective a tiny controlled burn within bow range of a treestand can be. You can use a leaf blower to create a firebreak and then burn. I have messed with microplots in hardwoods. Leaves cover the plots when the fall and I've used a leaf blower. I found it was just too much work given the benefit. Using a leaf blower to make a firebreak around the area lighting it is less work and provides more benefit as those leaf nutrients are returned to the soil.

Thanks,

Jack

Believe me I wish I could do such a thing. However my property, while being in mountain country, is surrounded by a ton of homes on the perimeter. While I don’t know exactly how to go about getting the ok or the proper person to perform the burn, I’d venture to say with almost full certainty the town would shut it down. It’s my understanding that a burf requires some form of permitting or someone with the certification/training to perform it.

Over the summer the federal government approved the burn in the wildlife refuge in town. Not the timber, but a field that was simply overgrown and allowed to go naturally.id guess the field to be 300 acres in total size. I would venture to say there was a reason for them to do it as the rest of the land (thousands of acres) isn’t allowed to be touched or altered in any way, shape or form. In this specific area the house are much more scattered. I will say that a month or so after the fires were performed, and the trains came, that the field exploded with green once again.
 
Get a good leaf blower. I've got a Stihl BR600 backpack blower that is just mean. It will move thick matted leaf litter.

Not cheap but it gets my endorsement.
 
Get a good leaf blower. I've got a Stihl BR600 backpack blower that is just mean. It will move thick matted leaf litter.

Not cheap but it gets my endorsement.
I have one. It’s a beast
 
In a few seconds of blowing, you’re gonna have a pile of leaves so large you can’t move it.
 
In a few seconds of blowing, you’re gonna have a pile of leaves so large you can’t move it.
Yep, I thought about that but bring out a burn barrel and start burning em.
 
If you’re going to burn them, blow out a firebreak all the way around then burn what’s in the middle.


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One of our foresters suggested doing that to expose more mineral soil - not leaf duff - so acorns, hickory nuts, and seed of all sorts could get soil contact after we logged an area. But we didn't do it for lack of manpower to do the raking. But the fact that he suggested it would make me think it has merit to expose the soil. He DID say that wherever mineral soil was exposed from skidding logs, tracks from dozer & skidder trails, would have better germination of anything that hit the soil.

It might be a good thing to try, Livesintrees.
My forester told me something similar to that also. He said that the tracks and the machines scarifying the dirt would help the new seedlings. I think he said specifically the oaks. Also the time of year of the cutting also benefits certain trees. I think removing the leaves would help for sure. My friends food plot is always full of leaves, it seem like they have a lot to do with it being thin.
 
In a few seconds of blowing, you’re gonna have a pile of leaves so large you can’t move it.

That is what I found with micro plots. I ended up walking strips blowing leaves outside the plot then moving closer to the center covering new ground and blowing the leaves across the ground I just covered. It was a lot of work because of the very thing you cite. In my case, it is in a riparian buffer so it stays fairly wet except mid summer. Since I needed to get the leaves off right after the season, I had to deal with wet leaves. I find blowing leaves across turf much easier than in the woods there are sticks and branches and the like.

Thanks,

Jack
 
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