• If you are posting pictures, and they aren't posting in the correct orientation, please flush your browser cache and try again.

    Edge
    Safari/iOS
    Chrome

Alfalfa seeding rate in a mix

I planted RC BigRock this June with simazine and without. Both stands look just fine for first year stuff.

I have planted a 50/50 rate of alfalfa and clover and the alfalfa is holding its own several years later. Weed pressure is there and will try some Imox in the spring but overall its a nice stand that I've mostly only mowed and broadcast rye into in September to keep grasses down.
 
Thanks for the kind words BnB.

My alfalfa stands were still going strong after 3 years and I am pretty sure they would have gone strong for another 3 years but I terminated them to rotate into something’s else. I should probably say I “tried” to terminate the alfalfa/clover because, try as I may, I still have remnants of both in those plots. It is difficult to terminate for sure.
Thanks, Wild Thing, for the info. We'd like to plant an alfalfa plot that would hang on for 3 to 5 years to keep deer fed without having to re-plant things - at least for that one field. We have a number of other fields we can plant to other things - mixed crop varieties typically. A plot of alfalfa could anchor part of our critter cafeteria, if it lasts a while.
 
Thanks, Wild Thing, for the info. We'd like to plant an alfalfa plot that would hang on for 3 to 5 years to keep deer fed without having to re-plant things - at least for that one field. We have a number of other fields we can plant to other things - mixed crop varieties typically. A plot of alfalfa could anchor part of our critter cafeteria, if it lasts a while.

Here is another twist on planting RR Alfalfa from Jake at Habitat-Pro-LLC, from a tip he got from Jim Ward. He plants RR alfalfa at a lighter rate so there is room to broadcast or drill annuals like brassicas or cereal grains into it in the fall to increase the attractiveness of the plot - especially into th later season.


I think there is a lot of merit to this strategy. I usually do drill some rye into my perennial plots in the fall anyway but it doesn't usually amount to too much in a thick stand of alfalfa. By planting at a lower rate, he gets very good stands of annuals along with the alfalfa.

Something to consider...
 
Here is another twist on planting RR Alfalfa from Jake at Habitat-Pro-LLC, from a tip he got from Jim Ward. He plants RR alfalfa at a lighter rate so there is room to broadcast or drill annuals like brassicas or cereal grains into it in the fall to increase the attractiveness of the plot - especially into th later season.


I think there is a lot of merit to this strategy. I usually do drill some rye into my perennial plots in the fall anyway but it doesn't usually amount to too much in a thick stand of alfalfa. By planting at a lower rate, he gets very good stands of annuals along with the alfalfa.

Something to consider...
Thanks for this info, Wild Thing. We don't have a drill at camp, but we've broadcast rye around Labor Day with good results. The rye seems to germinate just by touching the soil for us, so trying the above plan you posted might be a good bet for our place. Rye is our go-to, gap-filler/thin spots filler. We mix rye into our fall brassica seed mix too, as a follow-up after the brassicas die for winter/early spring chow.
 
Thanks for this info, Wild Thing. We don't have a drill at camp, but we've broadcast rye around Labor Day with good results. The rye seems to germinate just by touching the soil for us, so trying the above plan you posted might be a good bet for our place. Rye is our go-to, gap-filler/thin spots filler. We mix rye into our fall brassica seed mix too, as a follow-up after the brassicas die for winter/early spring chow.

I am fortunate enough to have a good drill so it makes drilling cereal grains into my clovers and alfalfa pretty easy...
IMG_3763.jpeg

I drilled cereal rye into these alfalfa plots on August 20th...
IMG_9052.jpeg

IMG_9054.jpeg

IMG_9064.jpeg

In recent years I have been paying the higher price for clean and certified rye because I have had bad experience using dirty rye and getting some free pigweed and other pests along with it....
IMG_9172.jpeg
The following June 1st
IMG_1705.jpeg

IMG_1706.jpeg

June 14th
IMG_1857 (1).jpeg

I drilled this rye at the rate of 75#/acre but have since decided that 100#/acre would be better. I can imagine though, that with a little lighter rate of alfalfa, there would still be room for maybe some rape and turnips or radish along with the rye or oats? Remember - I planted this alfalfa/clover mix at 20#/acre (16# alfalfa and 4# clover per acre)
IMG_1858 (1).jpeg
June 17th - This is why I don't like mowing in June. These little buggers can really sit tight. Late October they are big enough and smart enough to get out of the way.
IMG_8358.jpeg

I think this strategy might be a good fit for you BnB, even if you are broadcasting your seed. Let us know how it works out for you.
 
Last edited:
Agreed, I never mow anything in June.
 
I think this strategy might be a good fit for you BnB, even if you are broadcasting your seed. Let us know how it works out for you
We'll give it a shot, Wild Thing. We also let our rye stand until after June for fawn cover - bears, bobcats & coyotes. Fawns would be easy pickings, so we try to help the little ones as best we can. If we ever mow rye early, it's well before fawn drop time, to release the clover & alfalfa.
 
@Wild Thing this is a great thread. Just had a discussion with a buddy about the value of alfalfa in late season in snow country. The way you are doing it fits in with his thoughts perfectly.
 
^^^ Great advice here....I'm adding alfalfa in 2026 too. Wow!
 
So I grow really good white (mainly Alice ladino) and medium red clover. Very lush and persistent. I want to try some alfalfa this year to determine if I can grow it in my clover plots. I may try 1/2 acre or so on good sandy ground.

So, should I set back or terminate the clover before drilling the alfalfa?.....or simply drill into the clover? I feel like setting back the clover would give the alfalfa a chance to establish itself....and would likely do that in late May / early June.

Chief reason for the alfalfa over the clover is that I think the alfalfa is preferred and it lasts longer into fall....when the cold weather rapidly diminishes my clover. Winter Rye drilled into the clover usually has to save my plots by rifle season.

That RR alfalfa is some stupid expensive stuff.....and if I am going to plant allot of it.....I gotta have a good chance of success. Therefore I would develop a reasonable plan this year....and go after more if I succeed. What is the voice of experience here?
 
I'm gonna be more careful with advice from you and Omi.....grin. I applied some Simazine a few days before drilling my switch and got ZERO gernination out of my switch this year. Nadda....zip...point zero....nothing. Gotta beleive its that Simazine just before I planted. Check the message (PM) I sent to both of you guys. No offense intended...but I feel certain the Simazine was bad advice (?). You guys are still tops in my wheel house.....none of us know what we don't know. All good....just gotta rub it in. (who know's....maybe I am wrong....but at this point....I do not think I am). Peace

From what I have learned....the new varieties of RC Switch do not handle Simazine at all. Don't feel bad....I don't thing Roger Sampson (RC owner) or John Komp know this intel either. Too bad they did not do the research before offering their advice.....IMO. Not happy right now with advice I received from allot of people. As I one told a customs inspector: "Don't piss me off....I ain't pretty when I am mad". Grin

Well.....I was reading this thread again on alfalfa, because I am going to give it a try this year along with some chicory. Great thread.

However, just want you guys to know.....(if you didn't already read it earlier) that most of the areas I planted switchgrass came in during the month of August and even some in September. Some is weak in places, but it is there. So.....I will eat a large ration of crow for doubting your advice on some of the chemicals I put down. Sorry for my doubts in you guys.

I do think my switchgrass should have made a few trips into and out of the freezer....as I think the stratification process may have slowed mine down. When I did a rag-doll test I had a quite low germination rate there too. Never connected those dots as I thought it could have been a fluke at the time.....and I had allot of other things (health) on my plate at that point.....so I did not pursue more.

At any rate....gonna try another trip down a rabbit hole on the alfalfa, as my ground should be just about perfect for this crop.....and I feel certain it will remain a better draw into fall as my clover dimishes often before our rifle season rolls around.

I may just try an acre or so....just to refine my methods before going for more (possibly in fall).
 
I broadcast a mix of alfalfa and clover this year and the clover appears to have choked out the alfalfa.But the field is eaten down to 1/2 tall.
 
I would start clean if you're trying to establish new alfalfa. It is a very slow starter and won't like the competition.

This is what I would do

Terminate current crop with gly + 2,4D
Wait two weeks
Drill 30-50# of oats in large seed box
Drill 6 # alfalfa and 6# perennial clover in small seed box (Or whatever rates you want)

Mow oats after they produce grain head
 
I would start clean if you're trying to establish new alfalfa. It is a very slow starter and won't like the competition.

This is what I would do

Terminate current crop with gly + 2,4D
Wait two weeks
Drill 30-50# of oats in large seed box
Drill 6 # alfalfa and 6# perennial clover in small seed box (Or whatever rates you want)

Mow oats after they produce grain head
I think I will mostly follow this plan....but will also pell lime it.....and perhaps add fertilizer before a rain event. I am leaning toward a rate of about 15 lbs / acre. I do not think I will add any clover...but will add some NWW chicory.

........ and after the alfalfa is established, could (in late summer) add some medium red clover as well as some radish depending on how the plot develops (still forming ideas).
 
I would start clean if you're trying to establish new alfalfa. It is a very slow starter and won't like the competition.

This is what I would do

Terminate current crop with gly + 2,4D
Wait two weeks
Drill 30-50# of oats in large seed box
Drill 6 # alfalfa and 6# perennial clover in small seed box (Or whatever rates you want)

Mow oats after they produce grain head
Why so much perennial clover as opposed to something like medium red clover?
 
Well.....I was reading this thread again on alfalfa, because I am going to give it a try this year along with some chicory. Great thread.

However, just want you guys to know.....(if you didn't already read it earlier) that most of the areas I planted switchgrass came in during the month of August and even some in September. Some is weak in places, but it is there. So.....I will eat a large ration of crow for doubting your advice on some of the chemicals I put down. Sorry for my doubts in you guys.

I do think my switchgrass should have made a few trips into and out of the freezer....as I think the stratification process may have slowed mine down. When I did a rag-doll test I had a quite low germination rate there too. Never connected those dots as I thought it could have been a fluke at the time.....and I had allot of other things (health) on my plate at that point.....so I did not pursue more.

At any rate....gonna try another trip down a rabbit hole on the alfalfa, as my ground should be just about perfect for this crop.....and I feel certain it will remain a better draw into fall as my clover dimishes often before our rifle season rolls around.

I may just try an acre or so....just to refine my methods before going for more (possibly in fall).
Some of your issues were marketing. It is going like all other switch I’ve planted. It will thicken up a ton year two. This fall I would throw a ton of forbs into it.
 
Last edited:
Sure.

I used a mix like roundstone imi tolerant mix. Partridge pea heavy. I like to establish the grasses year one and get all invasives under control. Then come back and plant the forbs year two. You can plant grasses and forbs at same time, but they don’t do as well. Some forbs will come up naturally.


I love imazapic at 2-4oz/acre to start and maintain native habitat.
 
I really like that idea. I have a lot of Forbes in my big/little bluestem but herbicide tolerant Forbes in switch? Sign me up.

Thank you.
 
Back
Top