Alfalfa monoculture next year Z4

[Maddog66]

The farmer who rents my tillable ground has an alfalfa field a few miles from my place. I’ve watched it closely now for 3 years and I’m just dumbfounded at the deer that thing attracts. Even now after many hard frosts. I must have one! . I have a 1.25 acre spot that’s the best dirt on my farm and it’s on.

At first it surprised me that alfalfa grew so well way up north, but he told me he gets 4 cuts per year on that field! He’s never grown alfalfa on my ground, but said he would do it without reservation if he needed more of it for his milking herd.

Anyway his first advice was to soil test and get my PH up to 6.8 or better. My soil test came back at 6.5 so I cut the clover short and spread one ton of AG lime on it last weekend. Didn’t kill the clover. Hope it gets me to 6.8. I have more lime for a spring application if needed.

In the spring I’m going to nuke it a couple of times and disk it, plant at 20# per acre with 100# of oats, and fertilizer. He said to let it grow all summer without touching it. It will look horrible and weedy. Then, in late summer mow it off and the alfalfa will blow up and be good for at least 3 years….with some maintenance.

My farmer is happy to harvest it for me in 2027 when he cuts his hay twice per summer. Is that enough to keep it healthy or will I have to mow it also and take a chance on smothering it with my bush hog?

 

[Stubborn1VT]

Sounds about right to me. We tended to use 70# of oats as a cover crop rather than #100.
I'd be tempted to put down at least 200# of pelletized lime as a kind of insurance.
Cutting it twice a year in "27 should be fine. Three times might be better, but it depends on the growing year.
I've seen what a draw alfalfa can be. I don't really have the dirt for it (too wet) but deer love it. As a plus, it's very drought resistant.
As a minus, it's harder to establish than clover and doesn't seem to last well in many places.
Good luck with the planting!

 

[Bill]

I would thin on 1.25 acres the deer might keep mowed for you. Depends on deer density.

 

[jsasker007]

I would thin on 1.25 acres the deer might keep mowed for you. Depends on deer density.

My thoughts as well. The farmer might not have much to take after the deer find it. I just put some alfalfa in this year and the deer are in there every morning and night. Maybe 2 acres worth and has some strawberry clover with it. Going to throw some chicory in that plot also next year.

 

[marlin]

The variety of alfalfa makes a difference. Deer prefer small stem.

 

[Maddog66]

I’m certainly going to look into varieties. “My” farmer said it doesn’t matter much for his use, but I’ve heard of small stem varieties and of RR alfalfa too.

Any favorites you can recall?

 

[marlin]

I’m certainly going to look into varieties. “My” farmer said it doesn’t matter much for his use, but I’ve heard of small stem varieties and of RR alfalfa too.

Any favorites you can recall?

The previous owners of my farm had horses. One of the pastures had great soil and horrible weeds. I bought Eagle seed RR alfalfa and put it in the pasture two years ago and have never had to mow it.

 

[buckdeer1]

I would cut clover short or maybe even just over seed alfalfa right before a snow.Also if you have any wet spots that will probably drown it out

 

[Maddog66]

Marlin have you sprayed it yet? How did it go?

How about starter fertilizer and and other fertilizer applications?

Buck, that would have been a great call for me had I made the decision to try this sooner. I’m just happy I had lime laying around I could get on it this fall.

I think I also really like the idea of a Pell lime shot in the spring after I turn the soil.

New wrinkle: I read that like clover, it takes very well to a late summer / early fall planting schedule in my area. My experience with fall planted clover has been outstanding so I have to at least consider it.

 

[marlin]

Sprayed a couple of times the first year and once this year. No fertilizer yet. Here's a picture of a small strip (deer standing in alfalfa). Clover starts at caged apple trees.

 

[bigboreblr]

Whats your predominate weeds in the area? Id go for another soil test, especially if your discing. if you need some potassian or phosphorus. MAke sure the soil test includes boron too. Can add boron while spraying.

 

[Maddog66]

competition will be grasses, persistent clover, probably some thistles. But really who knows when your turn the dirt, even lightly? My hope is that the oats nurse along the alfalfa, even with some weeds, then when I mow the first time the alfalfa crowds out everything but itself.

I know for sure I’m going to need P and K in a decent amount….at least at first.

I’ve never worked with trace minerals at all. Interesting!

Late spring planting or early fall? I tend to get good moisture all summer but you never know. But I do know that my fall planted clover plots, with tillage, came in pretty much weed free and strong.

 

[bigboreblr]

IF possible after tillage, wait a week or two, then spray a light gly application. Wack those young weeds.

You have a cultipacker? Disc, spread oats, cultipack, then spread your alfalfa seed and pack again. You have a spreader that does small seeds well? I use a solo 421, works great for clovers n brassicas.

I've planted alfalfa in clover mixes, never a mono crop though. Hunted over it though. A good clover stand can compete well. But, a happy farmer nearby is even better.

You could ask him when he's planting if he is. PRetty sure my brother in law uses a big brillion cultipacker with seed box. 1st packer makes the groves, seeder puts the seeds down, and the 2nd cultipacker is offset a half wheel width so it kneads it in. He only use alfalfa at his farm, doesnt do any travel services outside the local town he's in.

 

[Maddog66]

Thx much for the tips!

I do have a heavy stand-alone cultipacker, but there is also one on my Firminator disc/seeder which I think will be easiest in this case because the oats and alfalfa like a similar planting depth, I understand (1/2”). But I also have a solo 421 that I always use for clover & brassicas too. Works great.

Cultipack the seed twice in opposite directions…..is another thing I’ve been told.

 

[Maddog66]

I read up on adding boron to my soil. If needed, the application rate is only 1-3# per acre - dry. And you apply it about 2 weeks before planting because it shouldn’t ‘touch’ the seed.

Do you have it mixed into a custom fertilizer or can you just buy granular boron pellets? Edit: I see it can also be applied as a liquid. Is that the preferred method for plotters who have a sprayer?

Boron is a pretty interesting rabbit hole……key for legumes and brassicas.

****i price checked my local coop on the “full” soil sample survey. It was $80. Not trying to be cheap but that seems like a lot and I have all winter to send a sample. Are there better or less costly places to send my soil sample?

 

[SD51555]

I read up on adding boron to my soil. If needed, the application rate is only 1-3# per acre - dry. And you apply it about 2 weeks before planting because it shouldn’t ‘touch’ the seed.

Do you have it mixed into a custom fertilizer or can you just buy granular boron pellets? Edit: I see it can also be applied as a liquid. Is that the preferred method for plotters who have a sprayer?

Boron is a pretty interesting rabbit hole……key for legumes and brassicas.

****i price checked my local coop on the “full” soil sample survey. It was $80. Not trying to be cheap but that seems like a lot and I have all winter to send a sample. Are there better or less costly places to send my soil sample?

You can just spread borax with a blower seeder if you have one. It’s about 10% B, so just put on 10 lbs/ac and it’s done.

I like Midwest labs for soil tests. About $27 + shipping to get it done, but you get a complete test with about 30 data points. It’s a much better value than a lesser test for $10 or $15 that only gives you NPK and pH. Get the S3C test.

If you really want to juice your legume stand, get some sulfate sulfur down too.


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