Ahhhh cereal rye

deer in the rye.jpeg
My doe / fawn groups spend allot of time in the rye / clover. Food, bedding, cover....what is not to like?

I have typically terminated the rye via my crimper in late July.....and on some land just let it reseed itself for the next year. It can become pretty thick that way. Also sometimes I have mowed it ....and have also terminated via spraying for brassica plots. Lots of choices. None are bad.
 
Omi I'm curious are you saying throw the seed into the standing rye and don't even mow or crimp in the fall??
So I use a drill. But I don’t do anything else to my summer crop after I plant with the drill. First freeze terminates the summer crop and the fall crop grows great.
 
So I use a drill. But I don’t do anything else to my summer crop after I plant with the drill. First freeze terminates the summer crop and the fall crop grows great.
I think allot may depend on rain and your soil type. I'm on sand.....and if I do not bury that seed a bit.....it may germinate....and just die out if we do not get some rain within a few weeks of germination. Lots of variables here. Mowing or cultipacking will improve your odds.....drilling is better still. Experience with your land and timing is important. Having some "armor" on the soil in the way of crop residue or "mulch" goes a long way to preserve moisture. my 2 cents.
 
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My doe / fawn groups spend allot of time in the rye / clover. Food, bedding, cover....what is not to like?

I have typically terminated the rye via my crimper in late July.....and on some land just let it reseed itself for the next year. It can become pretty thick that way. Also sometimes I have mowed it ....and have also terminated via spraying for brassica plots. Lots of choices. None are bad.
I think this brief discussion of rye and clover and termination of the rye is an interesting point to talk about. (and this is a chance to expound. grin)

1. Roller crimping before the rye heads become viable seeds happens sometime in July for me....and at the "dough stage" I have a few weeks to decide if I will terminate with the crimper or by some other means.

2. I did an experiment with cultipacking the rye, and by flail mowing the rye, and by roller crimping the rye. Roller crimping by far provided the nicest and most even mulch to cover the clover and did little to diminish the clover below.

3. Mowing the rye with a flail mower did leave a pretty fair mulch but it did not last as long as the roller crimped mulch. Still this is a good method if you also have things like mares tail or other weeds to terminate too.

4. While using my cultipacker will terminate some of the rye....lots more will "bounce back" and continue to go to seed. Maybe not a bad plan if you want to control the amount of rye for the next year?.....but not as effective of a mulch and does little to control weeds. My least favorite method.

5. Spraying with herbicides is useful if you want to plant brassica. I need to use both 24d and gly in order to terminate the clover....or it will typically bounce back and out compete my brassica efforts. Thus a two week plant back time is in order for the 24d.

6. The good thing about clover and rye is that clover will provide the nitrogen credits needed for the brassica crop...and rye also stores decent nitorgen. The mulch and residue and roots all provide for the future crops.....provide little space for weeds to grow.....and mostly eliminates the need for additional fertilizers. Win / win / win.

7. Oftentimes my clover is persistent enough that it will be naturally recurring in the following year(s). Crazy stuff....and all good....and it's comparatively cheap for what it does. And great protein....and provides N credits.

8. Using rye as an annual cover crop practically guarantees an edible food plot in fall.....with almost any meaningful rainfall or dew we get. I put down 112 lbs / acre each fall. (two bags). It's cheap and my deer like to eat it. In spring its again there to provide the first green food at an often desperate time in the deers life.

9. Rye provides really good fawning cover in late May and June....and allows the deer to get away from insects at times.

10. Rye and clover can be drilled "green" prior to terminating or inter-seeded. Very versatile for me

11. Clover and cereal rye go together like peanut butter and jelly. (credit: Lick Creek)

A sprayer, a tractor, a grain drill, and a flail mower are all that is really needed to operate my land. A roller crimper is like icing on the cake. And.....as SD has pondered.....if you owned the right implements....you could always rent the tractor for a few days each year.....and do all the work required.
 
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I think our camp should invest in a roller-crimper. What is a good brand (not prone to problems), and price for a good used one? We don't need a brand-new one for the amount it would be used. We don't have the open acreages some of you gents have.
 
My .02 is the juice isn’t worth the squeeze on a crimper. It would be different if they were reasonable but they are super expensive for the limited use they bring to the table. You can do plenty of good to a plot without the use of a crimper and spend that money in more useful places.
Now if I had plenty of money to burn I’d probably have one but only after I had a lot of other implements
 
My .02 is the juice isn’t worth the squeeze on a crimper. It would be different if they were reasonable but they are super expensive for the limited use they bring to the table. You can do plenty of good to a plot without the use of a crimper and spend that money in more useful places.
Now if I had plenty of money to burn I’d probably have one but only after I had a lot of other implements
I'm with this guy! Crimpers have a very specific use at a very specific time of year. Not a lot of other things you can do with them outside of that plant and that timeframe.
 
My .02 is the juice isn’t worth the squeeze on a crimper. It would be different if they were reasonable but they are super expensive for the limited use they bring to the table. You can do plenty of good to a plot without the use of a crimper and spend that money in more useful places.
Now if I had plenty of money to burn I’d probably have one but only after I had a lot of other implements
Dead on. I have the Goliath and it sits 364 days a year. This year I sprayed and I didn’t even use it.
 
Dead on. I have the Goliath and it sits 364 days a year. This year I sprayed and I didn’t even use it.
Yep.....mine sees little use too.....and I know I could get along without it. Still is does a good job. I doubt you will find many used ones out there. I bought a six wide Goliath....and I beleive I paid about $3500 for mine. Partly I bought the Goliath to compare results with a creation I had in mind.

A few years back I was designing a lower cost version by molding a crimper with some pretty unique features. Gave up on the idea when we could not get some needed properties in the plastic resins. Too much of a gamble? It would be fun to try the design, even with lesser property materials. Alas.... I dont have the energy for it.
 
Yep.....mine sees little use too.....and I know I could get along without it. Still is does a good job. I doubt you will find many used ones out there. I bought a six wide Goliath....and I beleive I paid about $3500 for mine. Partly I bought the Goliath to compare results with a creation I had in mind.

A few years back I was designing a lower cost version by molding a crimper with some pretty unique features. Gave up on the idea when we could not get some needed properties in the plastic resins. Too much of a gamble? It would be fun to try the design, even with lesser property materials. Alas.... I dont have the energy for it.
I figured with your mind you would try to build one.

Mine works great. It’s just with the summer crops I plant the weeds get intense without spraying a residual herbicide. And once sprayed the benefits of a crimper go down.
 
Bowsnbucks broken bear is selling I believe an 8 footer as he needs to move. He has a current post on here for the sale. Fyi
 
I’m sure this has been addressed multiple times, I may have even asked the question, received a reply, and forgotten…. but I’m trying to reduce my time invested, and the over summer buckwheat step of course requires more effort. For those that let the rye / grains plot go all summer (which sounds real appealing), this doesn’t result in a heavy heavy germination of seeds off that old mature rye stand?
 
I’m sure this has been addressed multiple times, I may have even asked the question, received a reply, and forgotten…. but I’m trying to reduce my time invested, and the over summer buckwheat step of course requires more effort. For those that let the rye / grains plot go all summer (which sounds real appealing), this doesn’t result in a heavy heavy germination of seeds off that old mature rye stand?

I’m on year three. It’s pretty darn thick. My DR mower does windrow it a bit. These photos were taken a week or two ago. Next year I may terminate it and do something else.

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The weed strips to either side are last Fall’s failed triticale. It never rained.


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To clarify, if I let it sit all summer is it dropping 500 lbs of viable seed into that same plot, or does that not seem to occur? The benefit of the summer buckwheat is if terminated in a timely manner I know exactly what seed I’m putting in the ground July - Sept.
 
To clarify, if I let it sit all summer is it dropping 500 lbs of viable seed into that same plot, or does that not seem to occur? The benefit of the summer buckwheat is if terminated in a timely manner I know exactly what seed I’m putting in the ground July - Sept.
If you’re farming. Def want to know.

If growing for deer? Free seed just don’t plant as much next fall
 
I guess it’ll be variable. Mine was extremely thick.


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