2014 Grafting Adventures of CrazyED

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Looking good ed, I have a tree that looks like that too
 
Florina Querina looking great.
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What is the game plan as the graft grows up? Do you rub off the lower leaves on the new growth on the graft? I see the bare roots I've received with no branches and wonder how/why they do that and is it the desired path to take?
I pinched off everything on the rootstock so only the scionwood is getting fed from the roots. I have been doing it from day one and some of my trees have grown over a foot already. Yellow delicious seems to be the leader
 
What happens if the graft doesn't take and you pinch off all the shoots from the rootstock? Does the rootstock die, or are you still able to t-bud on it. I just pinched off all the rootstock shoots on the grafts that look good, but I'm leary of pinching off the rootstock shoots on the sleepers?
My best shoot is 6"s and those competing rootstock shoots are 8". I just don't want to kill the rootstock if the graft doesn't stick.
 
I am a little cautious about that as well. I am leaving a small number of leaves on some rootsocks that have had poor scion growth. I keep the leaders on the rootstock shoots pinched.
 
I think if your scion dies and you don't have at least one shoot from the root it is game over. when I tbudded last August I tbudded to the new shoot, not the root.

on my failed grafts I pinch off all but one shoot on the root.
 
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I stopped pinching off when I thought some of the grafts weren't going to make it I think they will continue to throw out buds to survive but not 100% sure of that
 
I yanked a few roots from my garden today that appear to be deader than a door nail. no sign of life in the root or scion. broke it in half and there was no sign of life. it happens, I never bank on 100% survival there will be casualties.
 
pouring rain out right now but overall things look pretty good. more straight up casualties than I would prefer but I still have trees coming out of my ears. the trees that are alive all look great, those that died I'm not really sure why. it might be my Nursery, soil is not ideal. bits heavy clay, even though I added lots of sand, leaves it is still heavier than I would prefer. I would say out of 125 grafted, 25 are dead, another 15 or so will be tbudded, the rest look good to insanely excellent.

it's interesting how some varieties are so vigorous and others are slow and sensitive. Florina has been a great grower for me, all my Florina trees look awesome. I think my sherry tree is the tallest but I haven't measured it.

my 5 zestar! tbuds from last August all look great.
 
I will screen them all for sure. Thats what I did last year and I had zero issues. I cut a piece of screen large enough that when I transplant them to the farm the screen just travels with them, then when I plant i'm basically all set. I might have to open it up and roll it back if its just a tiny whip but it works.

It's amazing how one tree might be an inch and the other 2'. I'd guess most of mine are in the 15" range too.
 
At the end of the growing season we should compile a list of the most vigorous growers (varieties). I definitely have a couple varieties that are surpassing the rest. They might not be the same from region to region. I tried T-budding a few rootstocks this past week we will see if they take. Read an NC Extension publication that T-budding apples can be successful after June 22 nd. I am going to let a couple rest for 21 days and then cut them back to just above the T-bud and see if I can force them to grow. Little earlier than I would have liked to try but a windstorm took out the only 2 old apple trees at the farm and I had to salvage what I could.
 
If they would be aggresive sprouters now, wouldn't they be when they are older, as well. The vigorous growers I have require more training long term, and they also throw out more shoots after being trained. I just wonder long term how much of a positive this would be?
 
haven't I read posts from Maya that say 3-4 year wood is the best fruiting wood? if you have a super vigorous tree doesn't that mean you can thin out old wood over time and quickly replace it?
 
I guess I look at vigorous growers as ones that are more suitable for your local climate as well. I know some varities are inherently more vigorous than others as a general rule. In the long run I want trees that can thrive in my climate.
 
For me, all I want in my grafts to do is live. I don't care if they grow 4"s or 4' by next spring, as long as they are alive. Mcintosh for example, even after being partially trained (15 years ago I didn't know as much about apples as I do today, but the crotch angles and main branches are pretty good), the thing just keeps putting out shoots. No matter what I do, the crop is every other year.
I haven't grafted any of the sprouters I already have. Because I don't care to have those apples that keep putting out shoots. I want an apple that's easy to maintain. If I'm going to eventually reach the 200 trees I am planning for, it can make a huge difference in the amount of time I have to devote the next 20 years.
 
Sure they could be, they will be loaded one year, hardly an apple the next. They are still putting out a lot of wood. I still don't know much about apple trees, but it sure seems those types of trees put a lot of energy into wood, when they could be making apples instead.
It probably comes down to apples just needing maintenance. I don't know
 
That's makes allot of sense, thanks
 
Sorry I haven't had a lot of updates lately. Between family and work i've been busy. But I did get over to my dad's house today to check out one of my grafting projects. The mosquito were awful so we didn't spend much time outside. I did snap one photo before I was nearly eaten alive. A few shoots had a little bit of browse damage but nothing too major. Goldrush is leading the way. I'd say this thing is a good 12-18" tall. Liberty and Pristine are also doing well but probably in the 8-10" range.

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