Recent content by jray57

herbicides ARE pesticides A pesticide is any substance used to kill, repel, or control certain forms of plant or animal life that are considered to be pests. Pesticides include herbicides for destroying weeds and other unwanted vegetation, insecticides for controlling a wide variety of insects...

crop oil generally not recommended for glyphosate unless mixing with another product that recommends crop oil on label. non-ionic surfactant generally used with gly(many gly formulations already contain NIS). Not a farmer - just read labels

I have the 16 gal northstar. First thing I did was put 10 gals (measured) of water in the tank. Mount the sprayer on the vehicle you intend to use and sit on it while spraying so you know the height of the nozzle (which determines the width).Turn the sprayer on and see how many minutes it takes...

One "drop" of gly at 1% concentration lands on a leaf with 1 "drop" of dew on it means you are effectively spraying at 1/2%. Same units of herbicide per acre yes but at half the concentration. Some hard to kill weeds require less gallons of water per unit of herbicide. Do what works for you is...

A plant senescing, or preparing for dormancy is a little different than a rapidly growing plant which is what we should be attempting to control with spraying. Transpiration, what an actively growing plant does, is going the other way. Dew in and of itself doesn't appear to negatively affect...

High humidity is certainly good for translocation and absorption. I prefer to spray just after dew has dried off. Only moisture I want on the leaf is herbicide.

Contrary to my understanding. Dew dilutes and causes product to run off.

Chemical weed and grass control - Broadleaf weeds including pigweed, ragweed, coffeeweed and others may become problematic in food plots as well as weedy grasses such as crabgrass, signalgrass, panicums, johnsongrass, etc. If a height differential exists between weeds and the clover, glyphosate...

Durana is all that you say about it. I have three plots in it now. My observation in addition to yours is that on my property deer seem to prefer Med Red over the Durana. I seem to get more use on the Durana with the lactating does and their fawns but my plots with the med red are nearly...

As to books I found this to be a helpful resource https://trace.tennessee.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1015&context=utk_agexfish

Crossbows do not require the same level of "skill" and commitment as a compound. Compounds do not require the same level of "skill "and commitment as a recurve. They are all archery.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I just get so tired of some who make the point that crossbows don't require the same level of 'skill' or commitment that a compound bow does. As one who hunts with both I can assure you there is no argument as far as that is concerned. Where I have the problem is...

Why do you stop your "skill" argument with a modern compound bow? I have shot way more deer with my compound bow than I have with my recurve crossbow or my compound crossbow for that matter. I get just as close, just as quiet and do just as much scouting as I did when I was compound bow hunting...

I don't care what you hunt with on your property. Can I get the same respect? Or do you think I am going to kill YOUR deer on my property with my "crossgun" during archery season.

The farmer that leases a field just on top of that rise to the left in the last picture planted barley last fall as a cover crop. He had both bearded and awnless varieties in different parts of the 45 acres. When they headed out in late spring-early summer the deer destroyed the heads of the...