soil samples

[DiSc0Rd]

it isnt good but it is better than expected. i was surprised the buckwheat came up like it did with the low ph. now tell me if im reading it correctly. it say i need to add 100# N 30# P205 (what is that?) and 45# K2O
i wont get to put anything down until the spring most likely but i want to make sure im getting the right things

 

[Smallplot]

What did you add for the “Crop” when you did the food plot? N is usually based on the selected crop and other values can change a bit also.


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[DiSc0Rd]

What did you add for the “Crop” when you did the food plot? N is usually based on the selected crop and other values can change a bit also.


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Turnips and brassica

 

[DiSc0Rd]

What did you add for the “Crop” when you did the food plot? N is usually based on the selected crop and other values can change a bit also.


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Turnips and brassica

Stupid image wont load

 

[Smallplot]

First thing to address is the PH, unless it is sandy soil, I forgot to look at that. You need lime badly. Lime will take a while to work so get it down this year to see the benefit next year. I wouldn’t go hog wild with the extra nutrients this year. Maybe put down 30 pounds (actual) of each per acre. So in a 50 pound bag of 13/13/13 you would have 6.5 actual pounds of each nutrient so 4.5 bags of 13/13/13 per acre.


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[DiSc0Rd]

thanks @Smallplot i am in sandy soil. as sandy as you can get without being in the dessert

 

[Smallplot]

Kinda figure that when I saw the OM being at 1%. I don’t have sandy soils so take what I say with a grain of salt. Best to build that OM up over several years so you have the most water retention available. May take a while but it may also change what you plant going forward.


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[DiSc0Rd]

yes, there is very little growing if you dont count the cactus. i plan on continuing the buckwheat tnm w rye clover and brassicas to built up the OM. would have had a good start this year if the rain would have played nice.
the good news is my seed/fert guy says i have the lowest ph he has ever seen and i win the shit show trophy, so you know.... lucky me.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

To be honest I would spend my time and money taking soil tests from different locations on the property. You need organic matter. If that is not an option you are going to have to get your hands on either manure or compost. If you don't have access to either manure or affordable compost you have a very slow process on your hands. Concentrate your efforts on your organic matter and your soils CEC before anything else. If you don't your soil isn't going hold any of the fertilizer you apply.

I think to much emphasis gets put on PH. Having a low PH means you actually have a good opportunity. Rock phosphorus for one can be solubilized faster in an acidic soil than it can in a more neutral soil. What that means is you are going to want to put it on heavily so your acidic soil can make it more plant available. You will be able to greatly increase your phosphorus levels and your soil will be able to bank it if you have decent OM and CEC numbers. AGAIN concentrate on nothing other than your OM and CEC for now.

After you can increase your OM and CEC levels you are going to want to concentrate on Calcium. Keep in mind your Ca/Mg relationship. It is more important than most will admit and you should shoot for 5:1-7:1. As calcium levels increase your magnesium levels will decrease. Magnesium isn't going to be something you want to have to add to your fertilizer/soil amendments. It is very expensive. That will be good information to know when you are deciding on what liming agent you use to raise your PH. Calcitic or dolomitic. High Mg levels lead to poor soil structure and crusting but you shouldn't have to worry about crusting in sand and sand generally is lower in Mg just like everything else so dolomitic lime will more than likely be what you want.

This is info mostly comes from a book I have been reading and after posting this I should put my money where my mouth is. It's been a few years since i've soil tested and my current weed issue in one of my plots could very well be from my Ca:Mg being out of whack.



Some helpful Info: (They are pushing their products but still good info)

https://www.midwesternbioag.com/selecting-right-calcium-source-soil/




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[DiSc0Rd]

Thanks, @S.T.Fanatic I family friend has a stable and I'm sure I can get all the horse poo a guy could ask for. The real issue is getting it in the ground. I don't have a tractor to disc with so that's an issue.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

The rain and soil critters will do a lot of the work for you. The only way I would disc it in is if you were able to apply several tons per acre. An atv and drag could be all you really need.


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[Smallplot]

Have to be careful with manure. It needs to heat up to kill off the weed seeds. Chicken litter is likely the best option.


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[DiSc0Rd]

Have to be careful with manure. It needs to heat up to kill off the weed seeds. Chicken litter is likely the best option.


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That I don't have

 

[yoderjac]

Forget about the fertilizer for now. If your soil is sandy, lime and nutrients will move through it quickly. Focus on build your soil. You need to build OM and that will take years. Make soil your first concern and deer secondary. Start by selecting plants that match your soil. Never till that soil.

If you are not doing anything until spring, start with lime. I would surface broadcast it in the early spring when the soil is frozen. In other soils we want to apply lime early to give it time to work. With sandy soil, if you apply it too early, it can move through the soil quickly. I know some folks on very sandy soil that have to apply 3 tons of lime at planting time.

I would buy a soil thermometer they are not expensive. Next spring take the soil temp. You take soil temp between 0800 and 0900 in the morning. Shove the probe in 2"-3". Wait until the soil temp is 65-70 degrees. Then T&M sunn hemp and buckwheat. Shoot for about 20 lbs/ac of each. The sunn hemp will fix a lot of N into the soil. Buckwheat will mine nutrients and release them quickly for the next crop. If this is the first time you are planting sunn hemp, inoculate it.

For your fall plant, mow the buckwheat and Sunn hemp. Spray and surface broadcast Winter Rye (100 lbs/ac) Crimson Clover (10 lbs/ac) and GHR (Daikon Radish) at 3-4 lbs/ac. Soil test next year and see if more lime is needed. See how these crops do. If they do fine, forget about fertilizer. If they don't do well and the pH is OK, you can apply P (phosphorous) and K (potassium). Use Winter Rye as the crop on your next soil test and completely forget about any N recommendation you are given.

Repeat this process for the next 3 years at minimum.

An alternative, if they do well, you could put your field into perennial clover in the fall of year 2. To do that, T&M it in the fall with 100 lbs/ac of WR as a nurse crop and about 10 lbs/ac of a perennial clover. Each time the WR hits 12-18 inches, mow it back to about 8" to release the clover. This is a lower cost approach as a single planting will get you 5 years or more with just mowing. You can mix chicory with the clover if you like. Tolerate weeds in it. You will be lest tempted to till with this approach.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[DiSc0Rd]

I love you guys

 

[SD51555]

I'd completely ignore the lime recommendation from your lab. If you're that sandy, start with 1 ton/ac of dolomitic lime as soon as you can, don't work it in, and 200 lbs of 19-19-19 once its warm and growing next spring. Convert it to rye, red clover, and chicory, and leave the plow and sprayer in the shed. Test again 12 months from when you applied the lime. Get a different soil lab too. If you're looking at huge money for fertility, you want a complete test before you start writing checks.