I planted 2 libertys and one chestnut crabapple about a week ago. I used an organic compost (.05 nitrogen) for the 1st time. I put one bag in the bottom of the hole per tree. Do you guys think this will be a problem with the roots? We have clay ground but have received about an inch of rain since I planted.
All Things Habitat - Lets talk.....
This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Question
- Thread starter Boone
- Start date
Bowsnbucks
5 year old buck +
Does this piece of ground stay saturated after such a rain normally ?? If it drains pretty well normally, I wouldn't think it will be a problem. My camp has clayish soil and I put a couple shovels of aged mushroom compost in the planting holes along with native soil. I usually put 5 gallons of water on each tree at planting, and we've had heavy rains a day or 2 after planting - never a problem for us. We never lost a tree.
One way to help with preventing the " clay basin " effect is to score the side of the planting holes with a hand-held garden " hook " - the kind with 3 or 4 tines on it. I also use that tool to punch some holes in the sides of the planting hole to help roots expand out of the hole.
One way to help with preventing the " clay basin " effect is to score the side of the planting holes with a hand-held garden " hook " - the kind with 3 or 4 tines on it. I also use that tool to punch some holes in the sides of the planting hole to help roots expand out of the hole.
Thanks Bows, I was worried because after further research on this site guys are mixing the compost with topsoil. I put the roots directly into the compost. I planted on top of a hill that drains well with full sunlight. There is also about 15 75 yr old apple trees on this hill.
yoderjac
5 year old buck +
The problem with amending clay soil is the difference in water infiltration rates. Water moves through compost fast (in both directions) and clay slowly. So, you need to be careful that ground water does not run into the planting hole. It will saturate the compost and form a pond. If the hole is such that ground water does not drain into it, you are in much better shape. Then, the only issue comes if you get a lot of rain. An inch won't be enough to hurt you unless ground water drains into it. The reverse problem occurs during dry times. If you get a long dry period before the roots have grown into the clay, the amended soil will dry out fast and you can lose the tree. If you use an auger or similar device to dig a hole, you can get glazing of the clay. This can make it hard for the roots to penetrate. As Bows says, you can mitigate this with a hand rake.
Now that I've described the potential issue, if I read your post correctly, you've already done some things to help. If the amended soil is at the bottom of the hole and you used native clay to fill the rest of the hole, water has to infiltrate all that clay before it can pond in the amended soil. In dry times, the clay above the amended soil will help keep it from drying out and your roots will already be in clay at the time of planting.
The only thing I would suggest at this point is double checking to make sure ground water can't drain into the hole. I often use my native clay to form a small lip of an inch or so to keep ground water from running into the hole.
Thanks,
Jack
