New Plot question

The last time I bought gly, I paid $9/gal. I get more benefit per $ from using gly than about any other component that goes into my food plots. If weeds are not controlled, the cost of seed is often wasted. There are many ways t control competition and gly is only one. There are costs, risks, and benefits to all of them. On a cost/risk/benefit basis, for those who are not in an area where gly-resistance is an issue, I find the case for gly as a weed control technique quite compelling.

Thanks,

Jack

Thanks Jack, It seems you're right, everyone else seems to be saying that as well. Videos I've watched saying gly was expensive must have just been talking about Roundup. There are clearly cheaper alternatives out there which are effective. Thanks again!
 
How big are the fields? I am thinking about an acre or 2 but you might have a bigger area.

Chuck

I have 3 fields that are about 1/2 acre each, and I"m going to create one winding snake-like food plot through a cedar thicket that will total about 1 1/2 acres when I finish it. I also plan to plant some fruit trees on the edge of these plots in the spring.
 
Thanks JFK, what time of the year did you put gly on them, and what would that translate into in N KY? Thanks for your help. Do I understand some to say on here, to put gly on it in the spring when weeds start to emerge, then disk it up, then wait till August to plant clover and brassica?
Glyphosate is a non selective herbicide. It will kill all weeds and grasses. Saying that, some weeds and grasses are hardier and require a second application but not many. It won't kill woody plants. You normally spray when the weeds are young and actively growing. Don't disc after spraying, allow the glyphosate to burn down the weeds and grasses. I spray our plots in mid May, here in Eastern NC, which has some of the same weather as Northern Kentucky. This spraying will normally kill everything for 3 to 4 months. I don't disc until I plant (disking causes weed seeds in the soil to germinate and start growing) so hold off until you are ready to plant. Brassicas require 60 to 90 days to fully mature, so check your average first frost date of the fall and count back 90 days and plant. Clover needs a couple of months of cool temps before your first frost to germinate and put on some root growth so 30 to 45 days will be good. Add a cover crop of Winter wheat or Winter rye with the clover and you'll have a great food plot through the fall and winter and the clover will take over in spring. Clover and brassica seed is very small, so make sure you don't plant it deep. The best way is disc well, pack the soil down with a cultipacker, atv or tractor tires, sow the seed and pack again. Good luck and keep the questions coming.
 
Thanks Jack, It seems you're right, everyone else seems to be saying that as well. Videos I've watched saying gly was expensive must have just been talking about Roundup. There are clearly cheaper alternatives out there which are effective. Thanks again!
Watch what you're getting as far as concentration of Gly, the last 2.5 gal jug I bought was only 32% and not 41%. The 32% still works but wasn't what I thought I was getting.
 
Thanks Jack, It seems you're right, everyone else seems to be saying that as well. Videos I've watched saying gly was expensive must have just been talking about Roundup. There are clearly cheaper alternatives out there which are effective. Thanks again!
Roundup (from Monsanto) held a patent on their product for many years and for that they controlled the price. Since the patent has run out, companies are manufacturing it and selling it at a lower cost than Roundup. Buy the generic Roundup (glyphosate) preferably 41%. Also look for glyphosate that has a surfactant in it. The surfactant will break the leaf tension of the weeds and grasses and stick the mixture to the leaves. If you can't find or unsure whether you have surfactant in your glyphosate then add a couple of squirts of liquid dish washing detergent to your sprayer mixture. Make sure you do this after you have filled the sprayer or you will create a ton of suds.
 
You really should to go the LickCreek part of this forum and do some reading if you haven't already. The LC formula is in the first thread and it will all make sense. You can disc if your heart is set on it but you really don't need too. Start with some winter rye and clover after you spray some Gly. If you don't disc, the only seed that can grow is the seed you put there i.e. winter rye and clover. If you disc you will be bringing up seeds from under the soil and they will probably be weeds. Your rye and clover will still grow and there's a good chance the rye will drown out the other weeds but if you're looking to save money, you don't really need to burn the gas pulling a disc at least in my opinion. This first planting will really set you up for next year too. Lots of good advice in these posts and I hope you go out and get something planted this fall, you won't regret it.

Chuck
 
Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, Kopu II, Durana (or comparable) white clover 10% of plot, sow at 6#'s per acre with the rye combination in the fall or in the spring with oats and berseem clover. Correct Ph and P&K with soil tests

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost, Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea and 400#'s of 6-28-28 per acre. Follow the dead brassicas with oats and berseem or crimson clover in mid spring at 60#'s oats and 12-15#'s berseem clover and/or crimson and/or 50#'s of chickling vetch)

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot...we use 50# each rye, oats and peas along with radish and clover seed all planted in half of each feeding area

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 50-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Frostmaster Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre

Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre (or 20-40 pounds hairy vetch and 20-30#'s crimson clover on sandy soils)
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas use 100 - 200#'s of urea, if starting a new plot add 400#'s of 6-28-28 but for best results soil test and add only what is necessary.

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year


This is the recipe, good luck
 
Glyphosate is a non selective herbicide. It will kill all weeds and grasses. Saying that, some weeds and grasses are hardier and require a second application but not many. It won't kill woody plants. You normally spray when the weeds are young and actively growing. Don't disc after spraying, allow the glyphosate to burn down the weeds and grasses. I spray our plots in mid May, here in Eastern NC, which has some of the same weather as Northern Kentucky. This spraying will normally kill everything for 3 to 4 months. I don't disc until I plant (disking causes weed seeds in the soil to germinate and start growing) so hold off until you are ready to plant. Brassicas require 60 to 90 days to fully mature, so check your average first frost date of the fall and count back 90 days and plant. Clover needs a couple of months of cool temps before your first frost to germinate and put on some root growth so 30 to 45 days will be good. Add a cover crop of Winter wheat or Winter rye with the clover and you'll have a great food plot through the fall and winter and the clover will take over in spring. Clover and brassica seed is very small, so make sure you don't plant it deep. The best way is disc well, pack the soil down with a cultipacker, atv or tractor tires, sow the seed and pack again. Good luck and keep the questions coming.


Thanks bbcoach. This is exactly the info I'm looking for. I'm excited to give this a try next spring!! Thanks everyone for your advice.
 
If I kill everything off with gly in the spring, can I also turn around and plant in the spring, or do I have to wait till fall?
 
If I kill everything off with gly in the spring, can I also turn around and plant in the spring, or do I have to wait till fall?

What did you plant? What is you objective?
 
If I kill everything off with gly in the spring, can I also turn around and plant in the spring, or do I have to wait till fall?

You can pretty much plant the same day, or even put the seed down prior to spraying. Gly kills living plants, and usually wont affect the seed at all.
 
You can pretty much plant the same day, or even put the seed down prior to spraying. Gly kills living plants, and usually wont affect the seed at all.

Ok, great. Thats helpful. I didn't know that.
 
What did you plant? What is you objective?


Hi yoderjac. Well, it has been fallow and has not been planted in years. The fields are all weeds. My objective is to plant in spring to keep deer around for spring/summer, and to have a fall planting as well for the rut.
 
If they are just open fields, then go ahead and spray in the spring and put in something like oats and crimson clover which will die on its own in the fall and you can then plant something like the LC mix or Brassicas. I'm doing something similar but I'm in NW Wis so I am going to burn the grass after the snow melts then spray it once everything greens up. Then oats and crimson clover through the summer and finally an LC mix in later summer. This worked very well for me on my first 2 plots.

Chuck
 
Might try Buckwheat too.
Chuck
 
If they are just open fields, then go ahead and spray in the spring and put in something like oats and crimson clover which will die on its own in the fall and you can then plant something like the LC mix or Brassicas. I'm doing something similar but I'm in NW Wis so I am going to burn the grass after the snow melts then spray it once everything greens up. Then oats and crimson clover through the summer and finally an LC mix in later summer. This worked very well for me on my first 2 plots.

Chuck

Great! Thanks Chuck. By the way, what is LC?
 
Great! Thanks Chuck. By the way, what is LC?
Paul Knox went by Lickcreek and Dbltree, he was on various forums and had his own ratation that some use in one form or another. I believe Chuck posted it above.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Paul Knox went by Lickcreek and Dbltree, he was on various forums and had his own ratation that some use in one form or another. I believe Chuck posted it above.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

hmmmm, not sure I understand the response. sorry. But I'll definitely check out Paul Knox. Thanks.
 
See post #27 for the quick version. This stuff is almost fool proof. I didn't follow the fertilizer recommendations and still have a great foot plot being pounded by deer right now, even with an inch of snow on the ground.

Chuck
 
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