These are pretty popular and inexpensive. They have the single bevel edge for right handers.
https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-S...264&sr=8-5&keywords=victorinox+grafting+knife
If your left handed (like me) Tina is one of the few makers of left handed grafting knives but they are pretty pricey.
http://www.cspoutdoors.com/tina-t605-right-or-left-handed-all-purpose-grafting-knife/
Using a single beveled knife seemed to improve my grafting success.
Mine is very similar to the first link, but it has a "bump" on the back for budding. It is not much more expensive and works exactly the same for cleft and w&T grafts but also has that bump which helps when budding.
Not trying to thread cap here but what about a wax and film to complete the graft? Or are they all about the same and doesn’t really mayter what is used?
There are lots of ways folks use to protect grafts. I've found some things work better than others depending on the trees. For bark grafting persimmons in the field, I don't use my grafting knife. Instead, I use a cheap box cutter style knife instead where I can break off the blade when it gets dull. For this kind of grafting you don't need a single beveled edge. In all kinds of grafting, it is important to have a VERY sharp knife. So, rather than dulling my budding knife, I just use the box cutter style knife for this. For most grafting, cambium alignment is the most important factor, but for bark grafting I think pressure is more important. For persimmons I like to use electrical tape. You can stretch it quite a bit and it provides good pressure. When bark grafting larger persimmons (an inch or more in diameter) cutting down the tree creates a pretty large wound. You can use any kind of grafting compound to protect this wound but if you use one that is more liquid (I like doc farwells), you need to make sure it does not get into the graft. Tape near the graft to keep it from running in. I also use doc farwell's to seal scions.
While I'm on the topic of "sharp knife" make sure you buy a set of stones for sharpening. You should easily be able to shave hair off your arm when the knife is sharp. I have 3 levels of stone I use and then a strop block. It is much easier to maintain a sharp edge rather than letting the knife get too dull and resharpen it.
For W&T or similar grafts on apples, I like freezer tape. It degrades like masking tape in the field and does not need to be removed but it has a water resistant coating that keep water out of the graft. For this kind of grafting cambium alignment is more important than pressure. This saves time if you are doing lots of trees since you don't need to remove it.
As for parafilm, once again it depends on the graft. To protect scions from desiccating, I like parafilm-M. It is waxy and thins as you stretch it. Buds easily break through it. It degrades on its own and doesn't need to be removed. Other type of parafilm I've tried don't have that thinning effect when stretched and it is harder for buds to break through. It does not degrade and eventually needs to be removed. I find parafilm-M degrades too fast for chip and T budding. I find I can put several layers of it above and below a chip or t-bud to hold it in place and protect it with a single layer over the bud.
If you want a little more pressure on things like W&T you can use grafting rubbers. I found it less expensive simply to buy large wide rubber bands and cut them to size.
The final thing you will need if you are new to grafting is lot's of bandaids!. The master grafter in a class I took said that you are not really a grafter until you cut yourself.
Thanks,
Jack