How many HP to pull?

[WTNUT]

I am looking for a three shank subsoiler. I have some 3 acre plots that really need a subsoiler run through them. It has been years since some of the ground had been farmed, there is a lot of compaction and drainage issues. I wonder how much HP would it take for this subsoiler? What do you think it is likely prices at? Any comments regarding what makes a good or bad subsoiler? It is about the only type of equipment I don't have.

 

[WTNUT]

1. ERE S TE

ERE

 

[wiscwhip]

I would think 15-20 hp per shank would be sufficient, leaning more towards 20hp if you want to pretty much bury that thing to the frame. Have you tried breaking through that hard pan with something like the Groundhog or Tillage radishes? You may not need to incur that expense for a piece of equipment that you will only use on a very irregular schedule. You might want to try a monoculture field full of radishes to see if they can help with compaction and infiltration issues before spending the big money. My comment on a subsoiler would be to try to borrow or rent one instead of purchase, as they should only be needed every 5 or more years, unless you are driving in those plots when you shouldn't be, like after very heavy rains with saturated soils.

 

[foggy]

I have a single shank ripper and a 30 HP tractor (25PTO HP). Plenty of power to pull mine deep on my soils. I did pull a ripper in clay too...and it seemed to work quite well. Tractor weight & traction is a bigger factor. I think Whip's estimate for power is about right: 20 HP / shank ougtta work.

 

[wiscwhip]

Keep in mind that foggy has a great point, if you can't keep the power on the dirt, your hp won't make any difference if you run out of traction before hp. The tractor weight is huge is a situation like that, especially with multiple shank subsoilers, singles aren't nearly as bad.

 

[BuckSutherland]

You arent going anywhere with that thing unless you have close to 80-90 hp, especially if it is that packed. I could put that on the old mans 4020 and she would have her ass full at 12 inches let alone get it to 18" to really shatter it. Run some tile to a water hole and solve two problems at once.

 

[WTNUT]

I was thinking of pulling it with a JD 6330 which is 105 hp. I called the yard about it. They have been in the used impliment and consignment business for three generation and have 20 acres of stuff . They said probably 35 to 40 hp per shank for that one.

 

[BuckSutherland]

You could try pulling it down about eight-ten inches on the first pass, and then make a second pass and go lower at a different angle. They definitely work better if you can get a little speed, but at the same time you have to be careful not to tear everything apart. The 6330 will be loaded to pull that thing. Hopefully it has front wheel assist.

I pull a nine shank ripper in the fall and try to get around 15" deep. The shanks are somewhat similar to that machine. It takes all 400 hp to pull it at 5.5 mph, but it has a little bigger ripper points.

 

[wiscwhip]

I was thinking of pulling it with a JD 6330 which is 105 hp. I called the yard about it. They have been in the used impliment and consignment business for three generation and have 20 acres of stuff . They said probably 35 to 40 hp per shank for that one.

WOW! That is a bit surprising given the narrowness of those points at the end of the shanks, but a lot really depends on the soil structure. In super tight clay, I could see needing 40hp per shank to go very deep at all.

 

[WTNUT]

WOW! That is a bit surprising given the narrowness of those points at the end of the shanks, but a lot really depends on the soil structure. In super tight clay, I could see needing 40hp per shank to go very deep at all.

I have never pulled one, but I have a five shank chisel plow with blades on the front. It is built like a tank. It was sold by Massey Ferguson back in the day, and it is a great plow. I have no problem pulling it, but I saw the ripper in person and it is a beast. So 35-40 hp does not surprise me. My guess is that 40 hp per shank is the minimum. I just wanted to double check with others before thinking about buying one. I really would like to have one even though use is not that often, but I need one I can pull.

 

[BuckSutherland]

You could buy it and remove the middle shank and just go every other pass if you had to. Then just resell it when you are done with it. Something like that really doesnt lose its value. Almost as good as money in the bank. Or see if they would let you rent it for a day.

 

[SD51555]

If you're just foodplotting, I'd experiment with it a little. I've never tried this, but the soil wonks claim sorghum-sudan hybrids can bust up compaction and do lots of other good if you can mow it once. Dipper will prolly back me up on this.

http://www.sare.org/Learning-Center...sion/Nonlegume-Cover-Crops/Sorghum-Sudangrass

 

[WTNUT]

You could try pulling it down about eight-ten inches on the first pass, and then make a second pass and go lower at a different angle. They definitely work better if you can get a little speed, but at the same time you have to be careful not to tear everything apart. The 6330 will be loaded to pull that thing. Hopefully it has front wheel assist.

I pull a nine shank ripper in the fall and try to get around 15" deep. The shanks are somewhat similar to that machine. It takes all 400 hp to pull it at 5.5 mph, but it has a little bigger ripper points.

I like that idea. Can you educate me on the different shank styles and advantages - disadvantages of each. Some of my ground had not been farmed since the early 60s and there is a lot of compaction. I can't help but think ripping will help drainage.

 

[BuckSutherland]

Like I said before, if you have enough fall and a little low spot this would be a perfect place to run some drain tile with a tile plow. Lets say the plot had a little slope on it. You dig a wet hole for an out let down on the bottom and then run a 4" tile line 30-36" deep every 50-80 feet depending on soil type and you would eliminate most compaction very quickly and give your deer a pond.

If you want to do it with plants alfalfa and tillage radish are probably the best bet.

As for the tillage. Some guy like the very narrow points so they can still shatter the column between the ripper points....(assuming you can get going fast enough) and with these you do the least amount of disturbance. Its not meant to be a plow pass for some. The guys using narrow points understand there are benefits to leave trash on top to absorb rain and wind. Here is an example.

Guys that are using bigger points like 10" pts are going in with the intent to shatter and to flip the dirt and hopefully make it black so the residue breaks down fast and so it warms quicker in the spring. Most guys up here are going for the black look. That would be something like this.