Gonna build a shed...

[momark]

Hey guys, I'm gonna build a shed in the near future. Nothing extravagant, just a basic machine/shop/storage shed. Gonna be 30x40, that's all I have room for, with concrete floor. Just would like to know what kind of things you are glad you did or wish you did differently. Some things I'm thinking about are termite treatment, venting, doors, and anything else. Thinking about a 12' main door, 9' high and a service door. What about a rear door? Is that something some of you can't live without? Anyway, any ideas are welcome. TIA
Mark

 

[Bill]

If I had it to do again the doors would be on the back so everyone driving by couldn’t see all my stuff when the doors are up.

Make it as high as you can. Be sure to use a vapor barrier under the concrete or you’ll get puddles when it’s humid.
Spray insulation is nice to help keep some bugs out. Industrial ceiling fans are nice.

 

[momark]

If I had it to do again the doors would be on the back so everyone driving by couldn’t see all my stuff when the doors are up.

Make it as high as you can. Be sure to use a vapor barrier under the concrete or you’ll get puddles when it’s humid.
Spray insulation is nice to help keep some bugs out. Industrial ceiling fans are nice.

Thanks for the tips, Bill. My door(s) won't be visible from the road, so that's one good thing.

 

[Natty Bumppo]

I built a 25x36 a few years ago with TWO 12' doors, a lift, attic trusses, ceiling fans, wired for 50 and 30 amp outlets, drops for extension cords and work lights, fully insulated and heated, etc. Thought of everything. My only wish is that I had gone a little bigger.

Here's my build thread:

25x36 Pole Barn

 

[356]

Definitely go with front and rear doors. That is one thing I could not live without! Since you will be using this for a shop as well as storage, think carefully about door placement, as wall and workbench spaces are at a premium. If termites are a concern, go all metal with web-truss construction.

 

[T-Max]

I am not sure of your layout, but consider a couple outlets in the floor. Think of a table saw, welder, anything else that would be nicer without an extension cord to trip over.


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[4wanderingeyes]

If you think you need a 30x40, go with a 40x50. Also plan it so in the future you are able to add a lean to on the sides, for covered storage. You just never have enough storage space.

My shop is divided into 2 areas, working, and storage. On my working side, I have an outlet every 6 feet. Cost to add them during construction is minimal, compared to adding them, or always needing to use extension cords. If you are heating it, infloor heat is awesome, and if you use a vapor barrier, and install foam insulation in the floor, it stays dry, and cool in the hot summer months. My shop can easily be in the 60's when it is upper 80's outside, if I keep the doors closed.

Think of mice entering when building. I personally went with ICF block for the walls, they are well insulated already, easily set up, and you can have the walls up in a couple days. Mice cant chew through 10 inches of solid concrete, with steel siding on it. If a mouse gets in my shop, in came in through the doors, which does happen.

 

[Tree Spud]

I agree with going one size larger to a 40'x50'. Once you start adding stuff inside (tractor, atv, etc.) the usable space can shrink pretty quick.

You can never have too many outlets. Put one higher voltage one for potential welder even if you don't weld. I have industrial fans in my ceiling and they do a good job of keeping the air moving.

Not sure if you are in cold country or not, but putting 2" of pink insulation below the cement (along with vapor barrier) will help in the winter. Cold feet can be fatiguing.

Add a 15' overhang on one side. Increases your storage space dramatically for implements and other stuff.

Add 3' of crushed rock around exterior at roof drip line. Will reduce erosion.

 

[momark]

Thanks for all the good ideas guys. Can't use all of them but will definitely use some of them. A few things were mentioned that I hadn't thought of yet. btw, I'm in central Mo.

 

[b116757]

Add pex in the concrete to heat the floor at some point go with higher walls say 16’ height is very cheap to add to a building and you can at some point add a second floor inside. Also as stated go bigger than you think you need. I built a 40x60 with an additional 12’ of covered storage down both sides and it’s still not big enough. My buddy told me to build a 60x100 I thought him crazy at the time, he was a genius.

 

[momark]

How about venting? Is a ridge vent the best way to go? If so, I guess it still needs other openings in the gable ends or soffits I suppose.

 

[4wanderingeyes]

I used vented soffits, with ridge venting, because I didnt want to add gable vents, or roof vents. It breathes plenty.

 

[Triple C]

I'd highly recommend adding lean-to's to the build. I built a 26x40 last year for our residence. Put 16 ft lean-to's on both sides - one for a porch and the other for tractor and implement storage. Also prefer roll-up steel doors as opposed to garage or slider doors. Of course, need to add a beer fridge inside. Nothing better than sitting on front porch watching traffic go by with a cold spew in one's hand after working in the yard all day.

 

[H20fwler]

Trench drains
Extra outlets
Ridge vent/soffit vents/vented copala
Bollards outside overhead door
House wrap barn before sheeting goes on
Bubble wrap roof before sheeting goes on
Spouting
Spray foam insulation
Pay up for good windows

The heavy plastic over stone before pouring concrete and the stone around outside of building like was mentioned is a must.

 

[Tree Spud]

We went with 2"x 6" wall framing. Put 1.5" of spray foam then 4"of rag wool. We then covered the walls with 1/2" OSB, allows for hanging & attaching stuff.

Also upgrade big doors to insulated. Doesn't cost that much but really makes a difference when it gets cold out.

Seal it up and you can heat with a wood stove.

 

[momark]

Lot of good ideas guys, thank you!

 

[buckdeer1]

I would go 10 tall doors at least.Mine is alittle different as I am solar.But I did run 4inch and 3 inch PVC up through floor in case I wanted to get anything out, or fish water in.If I reall thought someday I would have a bathroom I would bury drains in and water. I also raised my windows to where they are as high as I could get them

 

[Foggy47]

My shed is 30x40 with a ten foot hight door. 12' walls. Just high enough.....but more is always better. My shed is somewhat "minimalist" I suppose but I get along with it pretty well.

I put in a ridge vent and soffit ventilation. Also have ridge light via plastic panels. That works well. My floor is only 6" but has lots of rebar and vapor barrier. No issues. I had all the mouse-proof filler strips and (thankfully) have never had mice.

My door is just high enough to get my tractor with a cab though. Not all models of tractors would fit due to height. I have a L3560 Kubota.

The one thing I am lacking is another large door at the opposite end (or some windows) that would provide for flow -through ventilation in the summer. It gets pretty still and hot in my shed if I am working in the building. One other thing I like allot is a ten foot wide concrete apron in front of the shed. Seems I work on that apron quite a bit.

I have an outlet for a welder and a few wall plug-ing. I could always use more.....but those electrical strip plugs solve allot of needs.

 

[momark]

My shed is 30x40 with a ten foot hight door. 12' walls. Just high enough.....but more is always better. My shed is somewhat "minimalist" I suppose but I get along with it pretty well.

I put in a ridge vent and soffit ventilation. Also have ridge light via plastic panels. That works well. My floor is only 6" but has lots of rebar and vapor barrier. No issues. I had all the mouse-proof filler strips and (thankfully) have never had mice.

My door is just high enough to get my tractor with a cab though. Not all models of tractors would fit due to height. I have a L3560 Kubota.

The one thing I am lacking is another large door at the opposite end (or some windows) that would provide for flow -through ventilation in the summer. It gets pretty still and hot in my shed if I am working in the building. One other thing I like allot is a ten foot wide concrete apron in front of the shed. Seems I work on that apron quite a bit.

I have an outlet for a welder and a few wall plug-ing. I could always use more.....but those electrical strip plugs solve allot of needs.

I've thought about the ridge panesl for light but was a little concerned about issues associated with them such as leaking, breakage, etc. Would it be easy enough to work on or replace them if necessary? I figure if I put good enough electrical lighting in they wouldn't really be necessary. What say you?

 

[Foggy47]

I've thought about the ridge panesl for light but was a little concerned about issues associated with them such as leaking, breakage, etc. Would it be easy enough to work on or replace them if necessary? I figure if I put good enough electrical lighting in they wouldn't really be necessary. What say you?

I've had my shed for 15 years now......and had some concerns when buying the shed about durability of the ridge lites. But, I've never had a problem or a leak. I really like the light I get from front to back with the panels. My building was by Cleary.....and the sales rep said they had no issues. Not sure if they are fiberglass? I think the ridge vent and light was all in a package deal??.....but dont really remember anymore. The panels are only a foot wide on either side of my ridge vent. Was not an expensive option.

I did like the Cleary posts.....which are 3 - 2x6" boards laminated together. All those in the bottom are treated. NO warpage whatsoever. Insulated door is a must. Walk door is a must too.

Also....Cleary put the ridge joists on the 2" "edges" to provide better strength. Most lay them on the 4" side. They offered some other advantages.....including a decent price at the time.

I may have some high awning type or slider windows put into my back wall to allow better flow-thru ventilation. I"m just not sure how I would operate them.....(anybody got a solution?). I would not let this item slip by me if I were building again. On a day like today....it's stifling to work in my shed.....even with fans on.