Fruit tree mistakes you made ?

Last summer I had a malfunction on my sprayer nozzle as I was spraying Glyphosate inside my apple tree enclosures.

Did you know that gly blows right through the bark of a young apple trees and kills it? I do😂😂

Two 2-year old wolf rivers = toast.
 
I planted an apple tree 80 feet away from a black walnut. The next year it started dying back from the top. I dug it up the following spring and found black walnut roots. The tree recovered in a new location.
no kidding? I lost 2 that were within 30 feet of a black walnut...I may try to dig them up if I see any signs of life as they are a goldrush and a droptine
 
You're not a fan of tree tubes? I've been using them with a cage on every tree. Am I missing out on something?

Tree tubes simulate fast tree growth but do not allow for the main stem to create the required structure to with stand wind pressure. Wind against the main stem allow the tree to buld this structure.
 
Tree tubes simulate fast tree growth but do not allow for the main stem to create the required structure to with stand wind pressure. Wind against the main stem allow the tree to buld this structure.
I've used tubes inside cages the past couple years and when the tube comes off I make 2 or 3 loose hanging loops of baling twine tied off the cage and around the tree trunk. Thought being to give the whippy tree some support in big winds, but not total support. Hopefully allows it to gain back that structure you mention.
 
I've used tubes inside cages the past couple years and when the tube comes off I make 2 or 3 loose hanging loops of baling twine tied off the cage and around the tree trunk. Thought being to give the whippy tree some support in big winds, but not total support. Hopefully allows it to gain back that structure you mention.

Also important to note, large top structure without corresponding root development can impact tree stability.

Better to focus on root growth first couple of years for stability and nutrient/water take up.

Speed kills Del 😉
 
For you guys dealing with long whippy trees that grew vertical too fast. I did that once to a Sawtooth. It was so whippy that one day it bent all the way over and touched the ground with the central leader. Staked and tied it up straight. Took a couple of years to build trunk diameter up enough to support itself. In the mean time the sister trees that I didn't make grow so fast caught up. In the end there was no net benefit to encouraging the tree to grow vertically faster.
 
For those who consider tree tubes to be akin to middle age or older white males in today's political world can skip right past this.

I like using tree tubes for the accelerated growth on seedling crab apples and have done so for many years. Gets stuff growing above deer browse level much faster. Why grow stuff that gets removed by me or the deer later anyway. But the downside is it is actually more work if done properly than just using a cage. But I do believe there are growth benefits that show up even years down the road.

Lot of extra steps though. Still use window screen inside the tree tubes. Biggest diameter tubes reduce mouse house problems. Tubes in early years need to have any leaves or accumulated debris removed to again reduce mouse and mold problems. Trees when they get out of the tube so quickly and reach 7-8 ft need to be restaked above the tube. I use two t-posts spaced about 18 inches off tree and oriented north-south since my area has prevailing westerly winds. This provides good support but some flex to build trunk diameter. Tubes are left unsupported and get cut off when trunk diameters start to fill the tube too much or moisture problems start. Than a narrow diameter cage gets placed around to prevent future rubs. Usually a ratty recycled one. Have done this successfully many times. But if you don't take the extra time to do above, set and forget cages day one are a better fit for you.
 
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Also important to note, large top structure without corresponding root development can impact tree stability.

Better to focus on root growth first couple of years for stability and nutrient/water take up.
That's why I like trees on ANTY best. Haven't lost one.
 
no kidding? I lost 2 that were within 30 feet of a black walnut...I may try to dig them up if I see any signs of life as they are a goldrush and a droptine
Yeah, I was shocked at its reach. I knew black walnuts were a problem and thought I was more than far enough away, but apparently not.
 
Maybe learning how to graft.
is that in teaching yourself or as in learning something that then becomes a new, but altogether separate, hobby? (I am trying my first grafting this spring so I need to know what I am getting into!!)
 
Another mistake;
Using Miracle Grow on newly grafted fruit trees.
 
is that in teaching yourself or as in learning something that then becomes a new, but altogether separate, hobby? (I am trying my first grafting this spring so I need to know what I am getting into!!)
It was the gateway drug that started me on the path of many adventures and misadventures, untold hours of Internet research, planning, replanning, trying, failing, succeeding, victories in name only, winning battles but maybe not the war? Grafting of apple, pear, persimmons, paw paw. Growing from seeds. Trying to hand pollinate specific crosses. (Not)Rooting apple and pear cuttings. Creating my own rootstock stool beds.

What if I’d have just stopped after that first order of trees from Cummins? Maybe I’d have wasted all that time and money on reloading instead?

Make sure to get a roll of buddy tape for grafting. A roll will last a lifetime if you don’t lose it. I’ve still got enough for another couple hundred trees.
 
You're not a fan of tree tubes? I've been using them with a cage on every tree. Am I missing out on something?
The tubes produced a tall spindly tree. A full length tube to be precise. I still use them as a varmint guard at the bottom of my trees inside of cages
 
no kidding? I lost 2 that were within 30 feet of a black walnut...I may try to dig them up if I see any signs of life as they are a goldrush and a droptine
I did the same thing in my backyard. Planted two big box store apples shortly after we moved in. Had no idea that black walnuts did that. They didn't die from it but never produced an apple. I ended up digging them up and transplanting them. One died from the shock. The other turned into a nice tree but it has still never produced an apple. It hardly even gets blossoms on it.
 
Some days/years I think planting apple trees is the big mistake. Between bear, raccoon, squirrels, rabbits, mice, voles, droughts, all the diseases, weeds, surrounding trees trying to smother out the sun from them, lack of pollinators, early frosts, late frosts, sunny springs, not enough sun, it can seem to be a never ending battle to nurse them. Since I have gotten to the point of just planning to replace a couple broken, or dead trees each year to keep the amount to 30. But it’s hard to not want to care for them. They are like little kids, I always worry about them.
 
I was not aware of apple borers until it was too late and I lost many, many trees when I first began. Just had no clue. Once I learned about them they became such an easy to thing to control even without chemicals.

Now I just lose apples top black bears.
 
Also important to note, large top structure without corresponding root development can impact tree stability.

Better to focus on root growth first couple of years for stability and nutrient/water take up.

Speed kills Del 😉

If you want to fertilize the first year, go with just phosphorous as it stimulates root growth. Using nitrogen 1st year promotes upper growth.
 
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