All Things Habitat - Lets talk.....
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Crabapple Varieties & guys' comments / input
- Thread starter Bowsnbucks
- Start date
Bowsnbucks
5 year old buck +
Bur - How big are those Yellow Dog crabs ?? Even shriveled they look decent sized. And how is it for disease ??
buckvelvet
5 year old buck +
S.T.Fanatic
5 year old buck +
I have no idea what kind of crab apples we have on our property or regular apples for that matter. My family has owned the property since the 60's and they aren't the type that would have planted them. I know the apple trees are old and the two most attractive trees are starting to die off so I should look into cloning them or growing from seed.
The most attractive tree grows a yellow apple a little bigger than a golf ball and drops its fruit from mid July to mid August. The other tree grows very large reddish green apples that are good to eat and usually drop from November to December if my relatives dont pick them all.
The cab apples all hang onto their fruit late and are like a magnet to all sorts of wildlife in the winter. I almost never see any of them on the ground because they get cleaned up as soon as they hit the ground. I wanted to get into planting a variety of different fruit trees this spring but I think it would be a good idea to just grow the natives from seed since I know they grow and are eaten in my area. The crabs grow in fairly thick clusters and some of them are dying off. I think what I'm going to do this month is cut down the old trees to "release" the younger trees for the future. Thoughts on that?
What is the best way to start growing new trees from the existing trees? I'm new to fruit so any advice is appreciated. Can a cutting be rooted or should I just collect seed? In all reality im not sure I even need to plant many I maybe should just cut down the old trees and nurture the younger trees.
There is a triangle shaped piece of ground that belongs to the neighbor that extends into our valley property. I have it planted into a food plot because out property is entered into a conservation easement of sorts and it is just easier to plant that piece and not deal with the state on what and where I can plant on our ground. It is on low ground and the North edge of it is fairly wet. I am considering buying some crabs to plant in a row along the North edge of the plot. I was reading somewhere on here that Swamp Crab may be my best bet. How long does it usually take for a seedling to start producing fruit? I believe they are an earlier dropper which would be good for me because all of the "natives" hold their fruit into March most of the time.
The most attractive tree grows a yellow apple a little bigger than a golf ball and drops its fruit from mid July to mid August. The other tree grows very large reddish green apples that are good to eat and usually drop from November to December if my relatives dont pick them all.
The cab apples all hang onto their fruit late and are like a magnet to all sorts of wildlife in the winter. I almost never see any of them on the ground because they get cleaned up as soon as they hit the ground. I wanted to get into planting a variety of different fruit trees this spring but I think it would be a good idea to just grow the natives from seed since I know they grow and are eaten in my area. The crabs grow in fairly thick clusters and some of them are dying off. I think what I'm going to do this month is cut down the old trees to "release" the younger trees for the future. Thoughts on that?
What is the best way to start growing new trees from the existing trees? I'm new to fruit so any advice is appreciated. Can a cutting be rooted or should I just collect seed? In all reality im not sure I even need to plant many I maybe should just cut down the old trees and nurture the younger trees.
There is a triangle shaped piece of ground that belongs to the neighbor that extends into our valley property. I have it planted into a food plot because out property is entered into a conservation easement of sorts and it is just easier to plant that piece and not deal with the state on what and where I can plant on our ground. It is on low ground and the North edge of it is fairly wet. I am considering buying some crabs to plant in a row along the North edge of the plot. I was reading somewhere on here that Swamp Crab may be my best bet. How long does it usually take for a seedling to start producing fruit? I believe they are an earlier dropper which would be good for me because all of the "natives" hold their fruit into March most of the time.
Bowsnbucks
5 year old buck +
S.T. Fanatic - If you have crabs in clusters and some are dying, I'd cut those down and release the younger, healthier ones to more light. If you have a bunch of them, losing a few for the sake of many more healthy ones seems like a good move.
We've planted a few seedling crabs at camp, some 20 years ago. It took 12" tall seedlings about 7 or 8 years to make their first fruits. We didn't baby them either - just a cage to keep deer off them. If you throw down some 10-10-10 around yours, they may grow and fruit sooner.
We've planted a few seedling crabs at camp, some 20 years ago. It took 12" tall seedlings about 7 or 8 years to make their first fruits. We didn't baby them either - just a cage to keep deer off them. If you throw down some 10-10-10 around yours, they may grow and fruit sooner.
sandbur
5 year old buck +
I just watched a YouTube video on gathering and storing scion. I’m not sure how to post the link from my smart phone.
One good takeaway was on selecting varieties. He says you want trees that grow like weeds on your property and under your weather conditions. You want trees that are disease free.
I feel this is a good point that many of us ignore.
If you are growing seedlings, pick the fast growers.
If you are planting on your hunting property, keep those varieties that need more care near your building, camping, or parking site.
Some here have posted about difficulties with honey crisp. For me, it demands lots of care to produce quality apples.
Overall, I would say plant disease resistant varieties and for my climate, I lean towards crab apples. They might do better with a slightly more acid soil. They seem to bare fruit every other year with little care. Sure They will do better with pruning, fertilizing, and liming.
Maybe just my climate here on the edge of the cold winter/ hot summer northern plains, but I say plant crabs for wildlife. Especially in locations where you might not be able to give them constant care and attention.
99 % of the wild apples in this area are crabs. A one or two inch crab feeds the deer just fine and might even be preferred for smaller mouths!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
One good takeaway was on selecting varieties. He says you want trees that grow like weeds on your property and under your weather conditions. You want trees that are disease free.
I feel this is a good point that many of us ignore.
If you are growing seedlings, pick the fast growers.
If you are planting on your hunting property, keep those varieties that need more care near your building, camping, or parking site.
Some here have posted about difficulties with honey crisp. For me, it demands lots of care to produce quality apples.
Overall, I would say plant disease resistant varieties and for my climate, I lean towards crab apples. They might do better with a slightly more acid soil. They seem to bare fruit every other year with little care. Sure They will do better with pruning, fertilizing, and liming.
Maybe just my climate here on the edge of the cold winter/ hot summer northern plains, but I say plant crabs for wildlife. Especially in locations where you might not be able to give them constant care and attention.
99 % of the wild apples in this area are crabs. A one or two inch crab feeds the deer just fine and might even be preferred for smaller mouths!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
chickenlittle
5 year old buck +
The one thing about grafting the wild crabs and disease resistance is that few of us are knowledgeable about diseases or take the time to determine if a tree is disease susceptible. The main criteria is whether it is loaded with apples, especially after Christmas. Was this just a good year with low disease pressure? It would be smart to mark trees and watch for couple years before collecting and sharing scionwood. That requires too much patience but at least look at the leaves if you see it in the summer or early fall. Regardless of how many apples there are, if it has dropped half its leaves and the remaining are yellowing and covered in spots, cross it off your list.
Mortenson
5 year old buck +
Here's a crab I grafted that came from the founder of this thread... thanks BnB! The B118 root doesn't show a green layer of cambium, more kind of a red/purple color. After the pic I covered the cut portions with treekote. If this thread is still active in a few years I hope to contribute some feedback.
Prof.Kent
5 year old buck +
Next time when grafting a cleft graft, stick the top scion all the way down into the rootstock so that no cambium is showing. The more cambium in contact between the two pieces, the better it will heal together. It helps if your cut the scion to a longer taper. You can even remove some of the core of the rootstock (instead of just spreading it) to make it fit easier wihout spreading the root too much. I find some rootstocks (like G30) are quite brittle and a longer taper on the cut makes the two join better.
Bowsnbucks
5 year old buck +
Mortenson - Let us know how the Tree-Kote works on the exposed parts. If it doesn't take, I have more I can mail you. ( for $1000 ) 
sandbur
5 year old buck +
Mortenson - Let us know how the Tree-Kote works on the exposed parts. If it doesn't take, I have more I can mail you. ( for $1000 )
I have used it , too. Mixed results.
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Mortenson
5 year old buck +
Do you guys think that graft has a chance? When I google image searched "cleft graft", I'd say over 25% of the pics show something similar to mine, with that much exposed. Also, grafts that are now 8 days in the dark basement, mid 60's, some are showing awakening in the buds. Would it be wise to get them into the colder garage for a couple weeks and slow them down? It'll have some more pass thru light, however.
I have grafted a bunch of scions with similar appearing graft unions and almost all of them took. I can't see for see how the cambium lines up but assuming the cambium is well-aligned this might work just fine if the exposed scion is covered to keep it from drying out.
Turkey Creek
5 year old buck +
When I do my cleft bench grafts I don't pay any attention to wether there is a window showing or not. I seal my graft unions anyhow. Fully inserting the scion is not going to increase cambium contact since the only cambium layer is on the edge there is no cambium connection on the upper portion of the window no matter how far you insert it.
KickapooKid#1
5 year old buck +
I have been watching this tree in a parking lot of an apartment complex for about 5 years now and it looks like it could be a winner for a late hanger in a deer orchard. It has held fruit to March 2 years. I grafted this to b118 rootstock last spring they are doing awesome. Very vigorous and the insects seem to leave it alone compared to my centennials and Dolgo in my nursery. It has very vibrant deep pink blossoms. A red colored wood and leaves and a pink almost orange flesh. Anybody have an idea of what it could be.
