Building Pole Barn with living quaters

[ruskbuckss]

Looks like I will finally be building my pole barn with living quarters this summer. I'm going with a 40 wide by 50 long. I plan on having the cabin in the back( 14 x 40). The property had a old house that was taken down, so I have a septic,well, and power I would like to tie into. I have also had problems in the past with theft, so I have to unfortunately take that into consideration. Just started sending out bids. Any tips or experience with this would be appreciated.

 

[Mortenson]

Go 10 feet longer!

 

[Bowsnbucks]

If you've had problems with theft in the past, make sure all your electrical equipment is lockable with padlocks if it's accessible to the public. If you put up security cams tied into your electrical system, you don't want someone to pull the meter base or throw an outdoor main disconnect off. Then your cams are out of business.

Make sure all National Electrical Codes and local codes are followed - you don't want an electrical problem - IF you're going to install electricity in the building.

Gas lights are a big plus in case of power outages for the cabin section. They also produce some heat.

 

[Chainsaw]

Just a few thoughts;
-64 ft. long lets you shoot your bow twenty yards inside.
-Put 1 inch of thermatex on roof under metal and tape it. 1/2 inch will work on sides. Stops inside "raining" and keeps it cool in the summer.
-entry door in front or back not under roof drop if you get any snow.
-leantos on both lengths--cheapest most convenient space.
-hard insulation under ground around cement slab, pex in cement of course
-twelve ft. interior walls are nice.
-for columns-3 2x6's nailed together are stronger than a 6 x 6, pressure treated is only needed for the underground part.
-plywood all around lower four feet of interior to protect metal siding.

 

[ruskbuckss]

Go 10 feet longer!

LOL, I did that already and 4ft wider. I know it will never be big enough. I sure would like to go 40 x 60.

 

[TMIL]

LOL, I did that already and 4ft wider. I know it will never be big enough. I sure would like to go 40 x 60.

NOW is the time to do it, if you really want bigger. Don't be disappointed later!!

P.S. Any time you want me to spend more of your money, let me know. Haha!!

 

[ruskbuckss]

NOW is the time to do it, if you really want bigger. Don't be disappointed later!!

P.S. Any time you want me to spend more of your money, let me know. Haha!!

I hear you on the size. I want to make the living area like a cabin and be done with it. The price of concrete for a building this size is going to hurt. P.S you also sound just like my wife with the money!

 

[swat1018]

Plan your width by truss cost, plan your length in multiples of 8'. It makes materials come out better with less scrap.

 

[TMIL]

I hear you on the size. I want to make the living area like a cabin and be done with it. The price of concrete for a building this size is going to hurt. P.S you also sound just like my wife with the money!

Oh yeah? Is she pushing you to build a bigger barn/cabin too?

 

[Bill]

Don't know where your located exactly. In MO you need to spend the $ to put a vapor barrier under the concrete floor. if we don't do that you'll have puddles on the floor when it rains or gets humid. The guys I bought from skimped on a few hundred dollars and I live with the puddles. :(

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

Have fun with Rusk County Zoning! On my land I built a miniature version of what you are talking about - I built a 30x40 stick built building with an additional 10' porch on the long side. I have a garage on one half and a cabin on the other. As mentioned earlier, having a vapor barrier and foam insulation under the slab makes a big difference. It costs more, but I'm very glad we did that. I've never had any moisture issues and the insulation keeps the cabin cool in the summer and warm in the winter. On your living quarters side, put in big windows if you can since it makes a difference. If you can have windows on your south side, that will really help let in some heat in the winter too. I couldn't do that, but I wish I did. We added an overhang for a porch and that is really nice. Before they poured the concrete slab, we had the electrician and plumber run wires in pipes before the concrete was poured so there weren't any holes in walls or floors because of plumbing or electrical. We also added a cable line under the slab like that so we could hook up a cheap antenna so we can watch TV up there too.

We have a regular forced air LP furnace for heat. We bought a 250 gallon LP tank, but in hindsight I would have went with a 500 gallon tank. Good luck and take lots of pictures along the way.

 

[jlonll]

Rusk County Zoning is a pian in the tusch to deal with.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

The plastic vapor barrier and foam insulation under the concrete is a great move. A little more $$ up front, but long-term benefits you'll be thankful for.

 

[Red Picqua]

what are the posts being set at? 6 foot on center? 8 foot? 6 foot was the code and then people went to 8. I wouldn't go 8.

what is the ceiling height? I wouldn't go less than 10 feet.

 

[ruskbuckss]

what are the posts being set at? 6 foot on center? 8 foot? 6 foot was the code and then people went to 8. I wouldn't go 8.

what is the ceiling height? I wouldn't go less than 10 feet.

Not sure on the centers yet. It seems like most company are going with these engineered laminated posts which are suppose to be a lot stronger than the traditional solid post. Maybe this is why thary might allow 8 ft centers. I'm going with 10ft wall right now, I might go 12 depending on cost.

 

[ruskbuckss]

Oh yeah? Is she pushing you to build a bigger barn/cabin too?

No unfortunately , just a bigger patio at home and more money.