A Few no till questions.......

[TreeDaddy]

...... For Wild Thing ,Swat1018,Bill,Foggy, and No till vets

i will begin my virgin voyage with GP 3pt 606NT this weekend and request advice on the following questions

I realize the answers may be intuitively obvious to the group but here goes....


1) Do you calibrate( if so,how) or go by rates in Seed Rate charts?

2) How do you set rates for a seed mix from a supplier( Green Cover,etc)?

3) If only operating the main seed box,are any adjustments needed for the empty small seed box( ie,disengagement, etc)?

thanks,

bill

 

[Foggy47]

I'll try.

1. The seed rate charts are merely a starting point. You must calibrate your drill to the seed rate desired....as each drill could be different.
2. The seed rates are most often suggested by the suppliers or are gleaned from experience. Most seed companies suggest rates for a Stand alone rate and for a blend rate. Green cover has suggested seed rates for their blends listed in the data shown.
3. Nope. Not sure if you can disengage. I suppose it would save wear if you did....but no biggie IMO.

There are some really good videos on "how to calibrate a drill" on YouTube. I would watch a few and pick one that suits you. Your Great Plains drill has a hand crank and I would watch.a method that uses your drill. Google is your friend. ;).

Good luck.

 

[Foggy47]

I didn't watch this video yet....but it looks like he has some solutions for you. Maybe he overcomplicates it....but in an hour or two you will become an expert. Buy an good electronic scale that measures in grams from Amazon. $10 or so.

 

[swat1018]

I've had my drill for about 10 years, never calibrated anything. I put in the seed, and go by the rate chart and plant. My version of calibration is putting in a known amount of seed and run an acre and see how close I am, tweek as necessary. For mixes I usually go by the seed with the most bulk and fine tune. Again, I put in a known amount, check the acre meter, do a half acre or an acre, and see how close I am. I don't sweat it I put on a little too much, or not quite enough on an acre.

 

[Foggy47]

I've had my drill for about 10 years, never calibrated anything. I put in the seed, and go by the rate chart and plant. My version of calibration is putting in a known amount of seed and run an acre and see how close I am, tweek as necessary. For mixes I usually go by the seed with the most bulk and fine tune. Again, I put in a known amount, check the acre meter, do a half acre or an acre, and see how close I am. I don't sweat it I put on a little too much, or not quite enough on an acre.

Well....that is one way to do things. I calibrate....but also need to tweak a bit after an acre or more....and end up with a good rate. It's a bit of smoke and mirrors.....I agree.....but calibrating will definitely get you closer than using the charts. I dont have allot of experience in this area.....but each year the seed sizes vary considerably....as do mix blends.....and drill variations almost guarantee the need to calibrate your drill...IMO. Your crops / your money / your results / whatever. 'Merica. Grin.

Having said the above.....I do realize that experience will most often trump new operators and doing things "by the book". I think we all gain experience by doing things the way the book says....and then finding our own shortcuts that get the job done. I am gaining a better feel on my drill as even the past season wore on. Suspicious early....then confident as I got a few acres under my belt. Your results may vary. Grin.

 

[Wild Thing]

...... For Wild Thing ,Swat1018,Bill,Foggy, and No till vets

i will begin my virgin voyage with GP 3pt 606NT this weekend and request advice on the following questions

I realize the answers may be intuitively obvious to the group but here goes....


1) Do you calibrate( if so,how) or go by rates in Seed Rate charts?

2) How do you set rates for a seed mix from a supplier( Green Cover,etc)?

3) If only operating the main seed box,are any adjustments needed for the empty small seed box( ie,disengagement, etc)?

thanks,

bill

I'm with Foggy for sure. I calibrate my drill for everything I plant. I guess if I were going to plant the exact same seed at the exact same rate from one year to the next I could calibrate it once and just use the same settings the next year but I don't. What kind of fun would that be? I plant a wide variety of different seeds and blends and I change them up every year. Even soybean seed varies in size from one brand to the next or one year from the next. RR sugar beet seed varies in size tremendously IMO. I have planted some coated seeds that are more than twice as big as another brand. When I am paying $100 - $125 per pound for roundup ready sugar beet seed, I don't want to guess whether or not I am using the right settings - I want to know. And it is very easy to know if you take the time to calibrate your drill when you plant.

Yes, the first time I calibrated my drill was a little intimidating because it was all new to me. After I did it 2 or 3 times it became a piece of cake. It is basically just collecting seed at different rates, weighing it and doing a little math in order to arrive at the correct settings for that particular seed. The hardest part about it to begin with was getting the hose clamps back on the drill when I was done. I finally decided that if I lifted the drill all the way up and put pails under the tubes I didn't need to unhook the hoses any more. Viola! How simple is that.

1) Do you calibrate( if so,how) or go by rates in Seed Rate charts?

So - Yes I calibrate every time I plant. Many of the seeds I plant are not are not listed in the Seed Rate Charts - Sugar Beets and Switchgrass are 2 that immediately come to mind. Also, as I mentioned above, seed sizes vary widely so...no - one size doesn't fit all.

2) How do you set rates for a seed mix from a supplier( Green Cover,etc)?

I mix my own blends/mixes using both the large seed box for large seed and the small seed box for small seed. This IMO, is the most accurate and efficient way of planting, even if I have to mix it myself. If I were to plant a pre-mixed blend, I would likely have to use the large box (unless the blend was all small seed). If the recommended rate was to drill at 40#/acre. I would calibrate the drill to plant that mix at 40#/acre. Basically the same as what I do when I plant my own mixes, except that I will calibrate to plant the large seed in the large seed box at one rate and the small seed n the small seed box at another rate. That is the glory of using a drill with 2 different seed boxes.

3) If only operating the main seed box,are any adjustments needed for the empty small seed box( ie,disengagement, etc)?

Nope - Just leave the small seed lever on 0 with no seed in the small box and plant away. You can not disengage only the small seed box, and really there is no reason you would want to if there is no seed in the box.

I can add some photos and notes for further clarification.

And speaking of NOTES: You probably already know by now that I am really high on keeping good notes. I have shared my notes with many of you on this forum as well as other forums. I will also say this - back up your notes on paper. My computer crashed last year and I lost thousands of photos and other data - including my notes pages from my drill. That hurt - but I am thankful that I also had most of those notes on paper in a notebook in the barn.

 

[swat1018]

LOL. I've been running this drill for over a decade and have planted everything under the sun without a drill related failure. And the seed rate book is damn close, at least everything I've ever done.

 

[Bill]

I've had my drill for about 10 years, never calibrated anything. I put in the seed, and go by the rate chart and plant. My version of calibration is putting in a known amount of seed and run an acre and see how close I am, tweek as necessary. For mixes I usually go by the seed with the most bulk and fine tune. Again, I put in a known amount, check the acre meter, do a half acre or an acre, and see how close I am. I don't sweat it I put on a little too much, or not quite enough on an acre.

I’m lazy like swat. I go by the seed chart and adjust after an acre or so.
I did calibrate for corn and switch grass. But I didn’t Crank that handle 999 times. Once I jacked up the drill and the jacked up a 4 wheeler backed into the wheel. Put tape on the drill wheel to count and used the 4 wheeler to turn it.

The next time I cranked the handle 99 times and did the math.

I’ve never changed a single sprocket, ever.

 

[swat1018]

I’m lazy like swat. I go by the seed chart and adjust after an acre or so.
I did calibrate for corn and switch grass. But I didn’t Crank that handle 999 times. Once I jacked up the drill and the jacked up a 4 wheeler backed into the wheel. Put tape on the drill wheel to count and used the 4 wheeler to turn it.

The next time I cranked the handle 99 times and did the math.

I’ve never changed a single sprocket, ever.

...guess we're lucky!

 

[Wild Thing]

These are some of the files I had on my computer with planting settings for each...before my computer crashed.



This is an example of my notes for my brassica mix 2 years ago.


The first thing you want to do when setting up the drill to calibrate is to back off the clutch all the way.



Once I got my clutch set where I wanted it, I marked that line with a sharpie. After calibrating the drill it is easy to set it back exactly where it was.



102 cranks gives you precisely 1/10th of an acre. Forget about the acre meter. Yes it is nice to give you an idea of how many acres you planted this year, but it was never intended to be used to calibrate planting rates. Sorry, but they aren't even close to being accurate.



Don't bother unhooking the seed tubes - you can catch the seed between the opener discs with pails. My drill has 9 seed tubes. I catch seed from 3 of them and average that out to get #/tube.



Obviously you need the seed tube covers to close off tubes you don't want to use. Same thing here. I just catch seed from the 3 left side tubes and block off those near it so I don't lose seed when calibrating.



I just cut a brochure card the shape of the box to close off the first 3 tubes in the small box.



As Foggy mentioned, a good digital scales is going to be needed. A calculator helps and a pen and paper and you are ready to calibrate.



Notes - I typed these up after reading the manual and planting a couple of times. It is easy to review once in a while so I keep myself straight.

 

[Wild Thing]

LOL. I've been running this drill for over a decade and have planted everything under the sun without a drill related failure. And the seed rate book is damn close, at least everything I've ever done.

I’m lazy like swat. I go by the seed chart and adjust after an acre or so.
I did calibrate for corn and switch grass. But I didn’t Crank that handle 999 times. Once I jacked up the drill and the jacked up a 4 wheeler backed into the wheel. Put tape on the drill wheel to count and used the 4 wheeler to turn it.

The next time I cranked the handle 99 times and did the math.

I’ve never changed a single sprocket, ever.

OK - Maybe you are lucky and maybe "close enough" is good enough for you. That has never been my thing.

If all you have to do is use the seed chart....can you please look up my spring planting and give me the proper rate settings for both the large and small seed boxes to plant this mix at 40#/acre??



I didn't think so... Enuf said.

 

[Wild Thing]

More notes on calibrating...

 

[Bill]

OK - Maybe you are lucky and maybe "close enough" is good enough for you. That has never been my thing.

If all you have to do is use the seed chart....can you please look up my spring planting and give me the proper rate settings for both the large and small seed boxes to plant this mix at 40#/acre??

View attachment 43270

I didn't think so... Enuf said.

When I use two seed boxes I drill twice. One box in one direction then the other in another direction for each box. That’s if I can see my drill lines.

But for most small seed I don’t even get out my drill. Rape, Radish, and clover I broadcast from the side by side. I used to loose sleep over it but not anymore, close enough is close enough for me now.

15 years ago I’d plant each one by hand if I had to. So I get it. I’m just not that hard on myself anymore.

 

[Wild Thing]

When I use two seed boxes I drill twice. One box in one direction then the other in another direction for each box. That’s if I can see my drill lines.

But for most small seed I don’t even get out my drill. Rape, Radish, and clover I broadcast from the side by side. I used to loose sleep over it but not anymore, close enough is close enough for me now.

15 years ago I’d plant each one by hand if I had to. So I get it. I’m just not that hard on myself anymore.

When I use two seed boxes I drill twice. One box in one direction then the other in another direction for each box. That’s if I can see my drill lines.

OMG Bill - Can't imagine why you would want to plant twice when you and your drill can do it all in one pass. That is exactly why I purchased my drill - one pass planting.

I planted my first food plot in 1986 so I know a little about primitive ways of planting. I am only on my 7th year of no-ill planting with my drill but I am betting I have planted as many or more different types of seed and seed blends than the average guy. I have found that it is very simple to calibrate my drill and just look at it as preparing to plant - no big deal. I know some guys are a little intimidated about reading operating manuals and doing a little math, but I'm not one of them. I like to do things right the first time - every time.

BTW - I've never changed a sprocket on my drill either. I use the Drive Gear, the Seed Rate Handle and the Seed Cups to change rates - easy peasy.

 

[Wild Thing]

LOL. I've been running this drill for over a decade and have planted everything under the sun without a drill related failure. And the seed rate book is damn close, at least everything I've ever done.

LOL - BTW Swat - I used a conventional drill (with 2 seed boxes) for many years prior to my 7 years of running a no-till drill....so if you've only been using a drill for a decade - you're still a Rookie.

 

[Foggy47]

On my Tar River SAYA drill.....I chose to use a 150 yard calibration method.. Its easy to pull three drop tubes and put plastic bags with rubber bands. I use a wood block in the hopper tp prevent seeds getting to all of the seed cups and I just place seed in one end of the hopper to calibrate...but I suppose I could also shut off the other seed cups via that feature on the tar river product. Whith the bags attached....I drive 150 measured yards with my drill. That deposits a given weight of seeds in those bags. I use a gram scale to weigh and do the math. I suppose it takes 1/2 hour or so if I can get by with one calibration process. (Im old and I move slow...grin). It took me two or three try's the first time I calibrated and I had no data to start other than common sense..

After determining my calibrated setting.....I will use the data collected on plot size to check the hoppers after planting 1/4, 1/2 acre and a full acre to make certain I am on the right path. Measure twice cut once. ;). ... Generally I am pretty close....but I will sometimes tweak my settings a bit. I also have spent some time to check the depth of my seeds and work that into my plans. New to me drill....takes extra efforts to undersstand the workings.

Last fall I planted 10 acres using my front and rear boxes. I came out spot-on after planting 10 acres with 100 lbs of rye and 34 lbs of a blend of nine seeds between the two boxes. Just what I wanted in terms of seed quantity / acre.

Getting even a little too much brassica(s) can ruin a plot. So I pay particular attention to that rear seed box. The grains and clover.....not so much...but I do like to "come out" at the end with the planned for rates.

2 cents.

 

[Foggy47]

On my Tar River SAYA drill.....I chose to use a 150 yard calibration method.. Its easy to pull three drop tubes and put plastic bags with rubber bands. I use a wood block in the hopper tp prevent seeds getting to all of the seed cups and I just place seed in one end of the hopper to calibrate...but I suppose I could also shut off the other seed cups via that feature on the tar river product. Whith the bags attached....I drive 150 measured yards with my drill. That deposits a given weight of seeds in those bags. I use a gram scale to weigh and do the math. I suppose it takes 1/2 hour or so if I can get by with one calibration process. (Im old and I move slow...grin). It took me two or three try's the first time I calibrated and I had no data to start other than common sense..

After determining my calibrated setting.....I will use the data collected on plot size to check the hoppers after planting 1/4, 1/2 acre and a full acre to make certain I am on the right path. Measure twice cut once. ;). ... Generally I am pretty close....but I will sometimes tweak my settings a bit. I also have spent some time to check the depth of my seeds and work that into my plans. New to me drill....takes extra efforts to undersstand the workings.

Last fall I planted 10 acres using my front and rear boxes. I came out spot-on after planting 10 acres with 100 lbs of rye and 34 lbs of a blend of nine seeds between the two boxes. Just what I wanted in terms of seed quantity / acre.

Getting even a little too much brassica(s) can ruin a plot. So I pay particular attention to that rear seed box. The grains ,large seeds, and clovers....not as crucial...but I do like to "come out" at the end with the planned seed rates.

2 cents.

 

[Wild Thing]

On my Tar River SAYA drill.....I chose to use a 150 yard calibration method.. Its easy to pull three drop tubes and put plastic bags with rubber bands. I use a wood block in the hopper tp prevent seeds getting to all of the seed cups and I just place seed in one end of the hopper to calibrate...but I suppose I could also shut off the other seed cups via that feature on the tar river product. Whith the bags attached....I drive 150 measured yards with my drill. That deposits a given weight of seeds in those bags. I use a gram scale to weigh and do the math. I suppose it takes 1/2 hour or so if I can get by with one calibration process. (Im old and I move slow...grin). It took me two or three try's the first time I calibrated and I had no data to start other than common sense..

After determining my calibrated setting.....I will use the data collected on plot size to check the hoppers after planting 1/4, 1/2 acre and a full acre to make certain I am on the right path. Measure twice cut once. ;). ... Generally I am pretty close....but I will sometimes tweak my settings a bit. I also have spent some time to check the depth of my seeds and work that into my plans. New to me drill....takes extra efforts to undersstand the workings.

Last fall I planted 10 acres using my front and rear boxes. I came out spot-on after planting 10 acres with 100 lbs of rye and 34 lbs of a blend of nine seeds between the two boxes. Just what I wanted in terms of seed quantity / acre.

Getting even a little too much brassica(s) can ruin a plot. So I pay particular attention to that rear seed box. The grains and clover.....not so much...but I do like to "come out" at the end with the planned for rates.

2 cents.

Excellent point on the brassicas Foggy. That is definitely one seed that you do not want to plant too heavy. I only plant 5#/acre Brassicas in my small box (along with 4# of clovers). That really isn't much seed to cover a full acre of dirt.

Sugar beets are just as critical...these 2 bags of seed each contain 2.5# of seed...



These are 2 other brands of RR sugar beet seed leftover from previous years. My goal for planting sugar beets is 50,000 seeds/acre. The smaller seed on the left contains 25,000 seeds per pound, whereas the larger seed on the right contains less than 11,000 seeds per pound. How am I doing if I plant these using the same settings on my drill?



I got a great deal on this bag of seed - Only $200 for 2#. I planted an entire acre with this seed. If I had guessed wrong on what settings to use but checked it after a half acre to make adjustments... I likely would have found an empty hopper with no seed left to plant the remaining half acre.



You can only see half of this 1 acre plot here but I planted the entire acre of sugar beets with just 2# of seed. There really isn't much "wiggle room" for precisely planting with small seed, so I calibrate before planting so I know exactly how much seed I am dropping. If all you are going to plant is cereal grains and soybeans, go ahead and use the settings from the chart without ever calibrating your drill. It apparently works well for some. But if you want to drill a wide variety of seed in blends, or especially smaller seeds, I would highly recommend that you learn how to calibrate your drill. It really is a simple process once you have done it once or twice. You paid a lot of money for a relatively high tech machine - you may as well learn how to use it properly.



Congrats on purchasing your new drill Tree Daddy. You are going to love it!

 

[Foggy47]

^ Your honor......I rest "our" calibration case. ;). lol

 

[Wild Thing]

^ Your honor......I rest "our" calibration case. ;). lol

...The Defense rests as well