Covering Seeds

[Hotspot]

For larger seeds like Rye, Peas, & Oats, it is my understanding that these types of seeds should be deeper than brassicas & clovers. 1" or so under surface.

The tillage method will be via Rototiller. What is best method for getting these types of seeds covered?
1. Till, broadcast seeds, then cultipack
2. Till, broadcast seeds, then use a drag harrow (I just think that using a drag harrow will give me sloppy, uneven results??).
3. Till, broadcast seeds, then do a very shallow till again

 

[MickT]

Burying seeds is overrated. Unless you are in the very Deep South, it’s way too late to be planting. Read up on throw and mow planting and other minimum tillage techniques before you make your mind up.


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[Catscratch]

I like throw n mow and have had success with every seed you mentioned (even the bigger peas and beans). They do have to be covered though... I cover them with thatch instead of soil. As MickT said do some reading on the Throw n Mow thread.

As for the other methods you mentioned... I've done them all and they all work.
1, 2, and 3 will yield the same results. 3 will do it with less implement changes...

One thing to note. I like to think I'm decent at TnM but I do have the occasional failure based on lack of rain. In my opinion TnM is superior but is slightly less safe than seeds covered in dirt.

 

[Semisane]

I've been a 100% T&M guy for the last three years. But several guys in our hunting club rototill their plots, throw the seed, then drag the plot with a four foot length of 6' chain link fencing pulled behind an ATV to cover the seed. It works well for them.

 

[nitro27]

For larger seeds like Rye, Peas, & Oats, it is my understanding that these types of seeds should be deeper than brassicas & clovers. 1" or so under surface.

The tillage method will be via Rototiller. What is best method for getting these types of seeds covered?
1. Till, broadcast seeds, then cultipack
2. Till, broadcast seeds, then use a drag harrow (I just think that using a drag harrow will give me sloppy, uneven results??).
3. Till, broadcast seeds, then do a very shallow till again

Best way for me to cover larger seed, rye, oats, soybeans, etc. is to use an old drag disk, (disk with no tires, hyd. and notches on the tongue to set angle.) I set it on straight to roll without digging in or at the slightest angle depending on how well the ground is worked. I go over the ground at a good clip so disks throw dirt. After covering seed I use a cultipacker to set seed into the ground. Had a local farmer ask where my drill was because the rows of rye were so even and he didn't see a drill.

 

[4wanderingeyes]

I would leave the tiller in the shed. I personally use a disc to scratch the surface, then I throw the seed down and pull a drag over it. It has worked for me for years.

 

[scott44]

In the past I've disced the plot broadcast the big seed and went back set the disc at 1-2" and went over it again. The last couple years I've went more to the throw and mow/roll method and had just as good of luck as the tillage.

 

[WTNUT]

For larger seeds like Rye, Peas, & Oats, it is my understanding that these types of seeds should be deeper than brassicas & clovers. 1" or so under surface.

The tillage method will be via Rototiller. What is best method for getting these types of seeds covered?
1. Till, broadcast seeds, then cultipack
2. Till, broadcast seeds, then use a drag harrow (I just think that using a drag harrow will give me sloppy, uneven results??).
3. Till, broadcast seeds, then do a very shallow till again

Hotspot,

I am not a throw and mow guy because I have never tried it, BUT the throw and mow guys are giving you some good advise. I have planted as much as 200 acres of food plots n a single year and have tried plots from all angles except throw and mow (which really isn’t true because I have thrown oats and rye into clover fields in August and just mowed and did well.

Where are you (state you don’t have to drop us a pin to your stand ha ha)? It is too late to plant most likely. How much ground are you going to plant? If you are using a garden rototiller I am assuming you are around 1/3 of an acre or so. For a plot that size, and considering the seeds you mentioned I will offer you two techniques and I am assuming you have crap for a plot that is starting out with weeds as opposed to starting in a nice clover plot:

1. I would wait until spring or fall, and spray the plot with roundup. This is not as practical in the spring because by the time plants start growing it would be nice to have seed in or on the ground. Anyway, I like spraying with roundup and letting it die down, letting other weeds and stuff germinate and then spray again before planting if I am trying to clean a problem field to plant THE SEEDS YOU MENTIONED; other seeds would be different.

Then for those three seeds someone was right in that covering the seed is a little overrated. If you throw oats, wheat or rye on bare gourd before a good rain you will get good germination. Some fertilizer is far more important that covering them. As for peas, you will not get quite as good germination, but if you plant at 125% of the recommended rate for the peas you are planting you will be fine. Further if you have high or moderate deer densities a mixture of peas on a small plot is like watching it snow in Florida. It is beautiful to see the snow and the peas, but neither is going to last long.

If you have spring planted oats, rye or wheat and let it go to seed you will have good germination and need to do nothing in the fall. If you like to keep your fields clean you might burn down the field with roundup the first of August before the grains germinate. For me in the Midwest they may germinate anytime between August 15 and September 5 depending on the year.

2. If you have a lot of energy and time and just want to go the extra mile, you can till everything; but I would still burn a crappy field down twice with roundup. As you know, even then you will cause some seeds to germinate when you till. After you till, I see no need to cultipack before you sow the seeds. Those large seeds are fine with a soft seed bed. After you sow them cultipack if you have one and fertilize. If you don’t have a cultipacker then a drag of any type works well.

For my annual law enforcement doe hunt last year, one of the officers brought another officer a section of an old harrow drag. It was about 8 feet wide and perfect for behind an ATV for small tractor. But chain link fence, bed springs and other items work for THOSE SEEDS.

HERE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART PAY ATTENTION TO THIS.

Regardless of whether you use method 1 or method 2, you are going to see zero (0) difference in your plots unless you live somewhere where these seeds don’t grow easily such as south Texas.

I don’t know nearly as much as many on this forum, but I can tell you that you just received an answer from a VERY diverse plotter. In 2002, I was plotting with a solo hand seeder, a Honda Foreman, a backpack sprayer and a section of chain link fence. Today, I plant my plots with either a 5,6 or 7 series John Deere, no till drills, Cultipacker’s, corn and bean planters, large discs, plows and drags, and darn near every plotting and farming devise known to man. So I have been on both ends of the spectrum. Equally rewarding, but I will admit the big 6R and 7R row crop tractors are really comfortable in the August heat.

And you know what, my deer cant tell a darn difference in whether I planted oats, rye, wheat and peas by hand or behind the 7230R John Deere. And, neither will yours! Good luck my friend and Happy Thanksgiving.


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[MickT]

We have 10’s of thousands of acres of cover crops going into soybeans in TN every year prior to harvest. They top sow them out of airplanes before the leaves yellow then wait for rain. That’s it. And they get darn good stands doing it.


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[bbcoach]

Seed to soil contact is ALL that is needed for most seed. With bigger seed like oats, rye, winter wheat and peas, we normally disc, run a cultipacker over the entire area (to compact the soil somewhat, get rid of ruts and help level the soil) sow the seed and cultipack once more. With small seed like brassicas and clover, we disc, cultipack several times sow the seed and cultipack once more. Small seed only need the seed to come into contact with soil. Do not disc or drag. This will normally bury the seed too deep and cause poor germination. Small seed never below 1/4 inch. Most of the time seed sown on the surface will do well with only rain doing the cultipacking.