Zeroing you guns?

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5 year old buck +
What zero distance would you do for 308, 45/70 / 450 marlin. Still playing with the savage 308 I got last summer, haven't hunted with it yet. Debating between 200 and 230 yards with the 308. My hunting club has gongs I put up, there a 230 yard at the end. Made a 300 yard shot -9 inches as per the hornady calculator. Shooting 150gr winhesters

Screwed up a shot at a really nice buck at 230 yards with the 450 marlin... Probably shouldn't be shooting that far with it anyway. However, it has a 100 yard zero when I stalk hunted up in the ADK's. I have a bad foot, so I usually stand hunt much more than I used to up there. Using 325gr FTX with that gun.

Where I hunt there is known spots in the open fields for 200 and 250 yards. Dips in the field, muddy holes the harvester avoids, brush islands, and on spot is 225 yards field edge to edge.
 
I use 200yds for my 308 and 125 for 45-70.
 
You should be able to look in your reloading manuals ballistic charts and pick a point blank range to zero at and not have to guess at a hold over while shooting. I guess it's up to you what you'd like that range to be.....what ever you're comfortable with.
 
I start my zero at 25 yards. If it’s scoped.

it’s usually the same as 100.

I then want 2 inches high at 100 for smaller bores.

this will give me a “ zero” at 200 yards.

bigger bores slower rounds maybe closer to 100 is best.

I seem to shoot over a lot of closer targets
 
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Many of my scopes have external knobs for these I use 100yds for my older scopes with internal adjustments I generally use 200yds with most caliber’s you should be good to about 250yds. Your 45-70 is quite a bit slower I agree a 125yd zero would put you good to about 150yds.
 
I zero all modern centerfire rifles with 2600 fps+ muzzle velocities at 100 yards, even my dedicated long range rifles. The reason is at 100 yards you are unlikely to be materially impacted by atmospheric conditions and wind like you will at farther distances and thus you are less likely to impart an error in your zero from the range conditions at a given time. If I wanted to set a scope up for a maximum point blank range (which i'm not a fan of), i'd just add the desired elevation adjustment to a 100 yard zero.
 
Good points so far. Think the 450 marlin will stay close, but will pratice with it every year at 200 and 230 at camp incase I use it out in the AG fields.
 
Most of my hunting is generally in "woods" scenarios. Much more often closer to archery distances, but also being ready for a few small field chances. I've found dead on to about an 1" high at 100 works very well for me.
 
I factor in bullet drop to determine where I want my zero to be. Remember on a scoped rifle you will have two points along the bullets trajectory that will be "zeroed".
 
I have used four different rifles, bolts and semi auto’s chambered in 308 Win for 40 years. I use 168‘s in 20 and 24 inch barrels and 150’s in 16 and 18 inch barrels. My zero is around 3.25 to 3.5 inches high at 100 yards. When holding center on an 8 inch diameter target the hits will be on the target out to 290 to 300 yards. In other words, no more than 4 inches high or 4 inches low. So out to 300 yards I just hold center of the chest. The Hornady calculator works well. The important things that give false results are not having actual velocity (don’t trust published data, use a chronograph) and having correct measurement from the center of the bore to the center of the scope.
 
Why I like zeroing at 25 yards. Generally it’s on also at about 200. I use a ballistics calculator for the caliber and load to know exacts.

Cool thing is that for most calibers that means I will be less than plus/minus three inches up to 300 yards with a dead aim. Plenty big for deer kill zone.
 
Hunting "the woods" by my place means we almost never have a shot over 200 yards. Most shots are under 100 yards. Thus with most guns I hunt with ......2" high at 100 yards puts me about on-target at 200 yards IIRC.....and a PBR of 250 yards or more. Good enough for the MN woods. But when I hunted more out west.....I would usually sight in with a zero at +1" @ 200 yards (or more).... to max out the point-blank range beyond 300 yards.....somewhat depending on the gun and critter hunted.

With my 7 STW.....I think I could never lift the crosshairs above the hair......and still make a clean shot to 450 yards (or so) on a big body like an elk (if memory serves). Many of the guys I hunted with liked to turn their target knobs on the longer shots (all using a good range-finder). I never liked to do that....preferring to "hold off" rather than rely on changing the elevation. I do think the knob-turners have a better success rate however.....

Out west....I'd keep a small ballistics drop and windage chart taped to my stock for longer range scenarios. At longer ranges....you normally have time to consider all the data needed to make the shot. I made some fairly long shots on game in my time.....and was quite proficient at most logical ranges....given the right conditions and having a quality gun and a decent rest. Long range is fun when your really wired into the ballistics and know your ability with a quality rifle. Takes allot of experience and practice....and we used to shoot prairie dogs out to extreme ranges back then for practice. I still maintain that is one of the best ways to hone your skills with a long-range rifle. Not so much these days for me....likely no longer capable of such things. BT/DT. 🙂
 
the years don't bless us with steady hands or sharp eyes foggy. I sold my reloading equipment 2 years ago, so no super long shots here. Probably 250 is it. 3-9 scope on the 308 savage.

My torn bicep has put my whole spring and early summer plans in the dirt, or not in the dirt too. I am overdue to redoing a gong target or two, was going to hang a 2nd gong up at 230, aim my 22lr at the top gong, and f aimed well it hits the lower gong. Was debating scoping another 22lr and making it long range practice. I have a ridiculous amount of CCI standard velocity ammo on hand. No need to sign for ammo at the store for awhile........ Maybe buying one of those caliber specific scopes, sure someone makes a decent 22lr version.
 
I zero at 300 and for most bottleneck hunting cartridges that will result in point blank (within 5" circle) out to 500 yards. Unless I know I will hunting at 100 or less.
 
my heavy guns I run 200 yards for a zero then adjust with a turret off of that.

I know you're supposed to make it 100 and go from there, but 200 and in will make it point blank

for my Ohio straightwall deer guns I usually try to be 2-3" high at 100. Gives me POI out to 150-200
 
Hey Roy what scope did you put on your 450 BM? I need to start shopping for 1. Would like up to 14x probably just for the sighting in if nothing else.
 
I zero at 300 and for most bottleneck hunting cartridges that will result in point blank (within 5" circle) out to 500 yards. Unless I know I will hunting at 100 or less.

Those #'s don't work unless your rifles are 3+ times flatter shooting than some of the flattest commercial options currently out there.
 
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Those #'s don't work unless your rifles are 3+ times flatter shooting than some of the flattest commercial options currently out there.
Well, you are correct. Now where the hell did I come up with that? Point blank is only out to 380 or so with a 300 zero. Maybe I need to start actually shooting my guns again?
 
Well, you are correct. Now where the hell did I come up with that? Point blank is only out to 380 or so with a 300 zero. Maybe I need to start actually shooting my guns again?

You and me both!
 
Yep. 25/200 zero can usually give you +/- 3 inches at 250 for most hunting calibers.
 
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