Wild Pear Grafting - Tracking the Process

[tynimiller]

Alright, as many of you know from my land thread (which I need to update) my property I bought is LITTERED with wild pear trees...just insane amount of them in some areas. So, I've decided with the over abundance of them I have the perfect chance to experiment with grafting over the pears to desirable fruit producing varieties.

The bad is I've never grafted before...however I know I located my first source of scions or whatever you call the cuttings for grafting.

Those familiar with grafting best time to graft is right at the beginning of green up correct? If so is that when I also what to collect my cuttings and graft them over asap (same day)?

Looking for real life examples...as the numerous PDFs and how to's and even a couple books I have on the topic are great and will help firsthand experience and advice is greatly appreciated.

I am going to use this thread as a way to track the entire process from now clear through grafting attempts.

 

[chickenlittle]

I would collect scionwood when dormant in the winter. Store in refrigerator in a Ziploc bag. Slightly moist paper towel. Seal ends with wax. After your tree starts leafing out and ideally after your last frost, do your grafting.

Depending on the tree and amount of scionwood, you might great several ways. Maybe cut it off about 5 or 6ft high and do several bark grafts. But if a tree has some good limbs in the right spots- good "structure", you might cut those off several feet out and graft to those limbs by bark or cleft grafts. Not many wild pears will have good structure/form so I'd think it is more likely you would just cut the trunk at a convenient height and graft it.

Spend some time watching YouTube videos of bark grafts and topworking and you'll be able to make the grafts.

 

[tynimiller]

I would collect scionwood when dormant in the winter. Store in refrigerator in a Ziploc bag. Slightly moist paper towel. Seal ends with wax. After your tree starts leafing out and ideally after your last frost, do your grafting.

Depending on the tree and amount of scionwood, you might great several ways. Maybe cut it off about 5 or 6ft high and do several bark grafts. But if a tree has some good limbs in the right spots- good "structure", you might cut those off several feet out and graft to those limbs by bark or cleft grafts. Not many wild pears will have good structure/form so I'd think it is more likely you would just cut the trunk at a convenient height and graft it.

Spend some time watching YouTube videos of bark grafts and topworking and you'll be able to make the grafts.

Appreciate it. I agree...the plan currently is in many cases to chop the trunk down to preferred height. Is it beneficial to leave a branch from the wild pear that first year attempting grafts? Or would that potential rob nutrients the trunk otherwise would attempt to shove into the grafts?

 

[greyphase]

I would try to leave a branch if possible, but have seen successful grafts without a "nurse" branch. You can also cut off the trunk and let it send up shoots for the 1st year. Then the next spring you can cleft graft to the shoots. I've had good success with apples using this method.

 

[tynimiller]

Good deal, yeah I know folks have had very differing experiences attempting to graft over wild pears, but with the abundance I have of them I am in the opinion I got nothing to loose but the time trying. Even if only a small amount take and mature it will be a great experience attempting...far worse things I could be "wasting" time on.

 

[DLH]

If you have any smaller sized pears and access to the scions I would go ahead and try t budding now. I t budded a pear in June this year and it seems to be doing fine most information mentions t budding in July to august.

 

[tynimiller]

If you have any smaller sized pears and access to the scions I would go ahead and try t budding now. I t budded a pear in June this year and it seems to be doing fine most information mentions t budding in July to august.

I hadn't even thought about trying that now....ain't got nothing to lose....perhaps I will.

 

[chickenlittle]

Time to do budding. I prefer to bud something less than a half inch diameter although I've done some closer to an inch or a bit more. I have pear rootstock i would bud if i could get budwoodl to use. Unfortunately the USDA Corville repository isn't shipping budwood this year. I'll put in order in for scionwood for next spring.

For budding, I suggest ordering a roll of "buddy tape". It has the right stretchiness and does not need to be removed. The bud will grow through the tape. My roll is a lifetime supply.

I would also suggest budding high, 4 to 6ft . Caring for and protecting new buds in the field can be a pain. Otherwise I bud 3-6" off the ground and cut the tree off an inch or so about the good bud in the spring. Also, do 2 or 3 buds on each tree.

 

[Barndog56]

I'm doing something similar, grafting 4 crabapples over to good eating varieties. Will be my first grafting attempts too. My plan is to attempt some chip budding next week, about 3 foot high on my crabs. If those don't take I'll cut them off and topwork with cleft grafts in the spring.

It was a 6 inch trunk that was cut off at ground level. It then sent up 12 shoots that grew to about 9 foot high in two years, before I thinned it down to these 4 last week.

 

[NE PA QDM]

Grafting: you can do it if I can do it.

I'm new to grafting in the last 4 years but I found that cleft grafting is easy and whip and tongue grafting is OK but my numbers weren't as great with that method.

So maybe consider trying a few different methods of grafting or budding. You might find one that you're really good at. For me, cleft grafting seems easiest.

 

[tynimiller]

Now everything I've seen says cleft grafting should be done in the domancy months right before spring green...scion selection has me worried but researching now. Some people say cut them in late fall when going dormant and store...others say cut the same day you graft...anyone thoughts?

 

[NE PA QDM]

Now everything I've seen says cleft grafting should be done in the domancy months right before spring green...scion selection has me worried but researching now. Some people say cut them in late fall when going dormant and store...others say cut the same day you graft...anyone thoughts?

I mostly cleft graft early in the spring before anything leafs out. I've used stored scion from GRIN as well as my own wild stuff. I typically harvest scion in march in usda 6.

 

[tynimiller]

I mostly cleft graft early in the spring before anything leafs out. I've used stored scion from GRIN as well as my own wild stuff. I typically harvest scion in march in usda 6.

Thanks! The more I read from "trusted" sources it appears the "pros' say harvesting scions a month prior to grafting is a rather crucial part to up your survival rate, keeps them from bud swelling and they'll be behind the "stock" you are attaching it to. Hopefully encouraging the healing process much quicker as the stock attempts to wake up the scion to survive the top cut just done.

 

[tynimiller]

Northern, IN here and frigid temps still...the recommendation from most of you would be to probably pick a time in March right before buds begin swelling to cut the scions and top work the pears correct?

Also while I have a great producing pear tree to cut scions from, recommendations on sources of scion cuttings? I wouldn't need more than probably a dozen this year...not gonna tackle every wild Bradford and Cleveland I got growing but wanna test out this grafting obsession no doubt getting ready to become reality.

 

[Turkey Creek]

I would collect the scion anytime from now until you see bud swell. I dont top work pears until I see the green tips on pear tree buds. You can prune the trees you are going to top work back now to a point a few inches above where you want to graft. Make a fresh cut when you graft. Pruning back those tops now saves the energy from going to the entire tree before you cut it back.

 

[tynimiller]

I would collect the scion anytime from now until you see bud swell. I dont top work pears until I see the green tips on pear tree buds. You can prune the trees you are going to top work back now to a point a few inches above where you want to graft. Make a fresh cut when you graft. Pruning back those tops now saves the energy from going to the entire tree before you cut it back.

Good to know. Will cut targets back some this weekend in prep for future go at it.